rog

iTrader: (2)

Did a bit of diagnosis on the car last night and after suspecting the alternator was fubar it turns out it's ok, as is the battery.

However, I never see any higher that 12.7v on my SECS monitor and I've got a big voltage drop between the battery to the ECU so I would hazard a guess that the issue is the live feed for the ECU that is defective somewhere. Want to have a look at this again tonight but before I do i wondered if someone can poin me in the direction of where the wire is routed etc, am I right in thinking it comes from the battery and goes through a multi plug on the bulhead in the engine bay? As luck would have it I ripped all the multi plugs out apart from one that has a thick red wire in it, I suspect it's this one that is causing the problem.

From the wiring diagram it looks like this is connected to the TPS and relays/fuse 20 and the fuel pump as well, just wondered if I am on the right track?

kosienutter

I have my secs battery voltage directly from the battery now via a relay but in line still with the ecu positive as it alarms randomly if I only have directly to the battery. I get a more accurate voltage.
Not answering your question there lol but an idea though.

rog

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, it's an idea but it's not actually fixing my problem, it would merely be taking the reading before the voltage drop and ignoring that the ECU is reading low. I have to actually double check my ecu voltage just to confirm it's reading on the low side, just because the secs goes between 11-12.7 I need to physically check at the ECU that this is right.
If indeed I'm getting +13v at the ecu and the SECS is just displaying a different figure i'll rewire it like you have done so It reads accurately.

JamesH

iTrader: (21)

Mine took voltage from ECU and was always 13.7-14.1V, so I'd say you're on the right lines of fixing it!

boost mad

iTrader: (8)

The fusable links next to the battery are probably the issue. ECU relay takes its feed through the main loom somewhere

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

This is absolutely correct, to which there are two, these corrode, thus build resistance=less power for nearly everything (as they feed the fuse box)

Some people cut them out, and solder the wires, which is totally the wrong thing to do, seen as you are bypassing a fuse

To be honest, it's a 12V system, you have above this so I wouldn't be worried personally.

Martin

dissmalrs

im having the same drama with my secs computer says 13v that is it but checked the car and im getting 13.7v at the battery at idle so im gonna have a lookin to this no u have brought it up

cheers darryl

rog

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the replies, I had a look tonight and didnt get very far after a lot if fucking about, BUT, what does the multi plug behind the battery do, where is it connected to, I've never noticed this before, when I moved it I got an extra 0.4v not sure if it was a coincidence or not, also checked the ecu voltage with a volt meter it's reading 0.2v higher than the secs monitor.

boost mad

iTrader: (8)

How many pins in the multiplug and what colour wires ?

kosienutter

I'll check but is it in the original secs paper work, that it will read -0.5 volts to the correct value. I'll have a dig around tomorrow and check like

Turbosystems

iTrader: (5)

that's the one you need to fix

rog

iTrader: (2)

Champion, thanks as always!