AWD (All Wheel Drive System)
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AWD (All Wheel Drive System)
Hello I am new to the board it seems very nice. My Name is Chris and I am from the United States. I have been working on project car a 1993 Ford Mustang for the past year and one of the projects is to convert the car to an AWD vehicle. I was searching AWD systems yesterday and I came across the Ford Escort RS Cosworth. It would appear that the system is a good one and might be able to be used for my applications. I just have a few questions about it though.
1. Is the Ford Escort RS Cosworth a rear wheel drive vehicle or a front wheel drive with out the AWD system on it?
2. Does any body have more information on this car especially the AWD system, It tuff to find websites with information on it.
3. Can any body help me put together a parts list on the system?
4. I also need to information on how to contact Ford Europe to try to get parts for it.
Thank you for you time on reading this message alonw with any help that you guys can provide me.
Chris
1. Is the Ford Escort RS Cosworth a rear wheel drive vehicle or a front wheel drive with out the AWD system on it?
2. Does any body have more information on this car especially the AWD system, It tuff to find websites with information on it.
3. Can any body help me put together a parts list on the system?
4. I also need to information on how to contact Ford Europe to try to get parts for it.
Thank you for you time on reading this message alonw with any help that you guys can provide me.
Chris
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The escort Cosworth has a modified floor to receive the engine and transmission.
The engine is in longitudinal position when all the rest of the escort production was transversal.
This car has only been produced as a 4wd (all the rest is FWD except the 2000 RS 4x4 (I don't know what has been sold on USA (I know the cossie weren't but for the rest??)
The engine is based on the sierra plant, which has been early made as a RWD.
The system has a torque repartition of 60/40 so it has a (little) feeling of a RWD. To improve feeling and reduce the loss of power some people change the transfer box ratio to have 50/50.
I don’t have any clue for website of conversions but you should find some help here!
By the way some parts are no longer produced by Ford so you may have to buy second hand stuff (you'll find plenty of parts on the sale section).
Good luck for your project and add some picture if you go for a cossie setup
The engine is in longitudinal position when all the rest of the escort production was transversal.
This car has only been produced as a 4wd (all the rest is FWD except the 2000 RS 4x4 (I don't know what has been sold on USA (I know the cossie weren't but for the rest??)
The engine is based on the sierra plant, which has been early made as a RWD.
The system has a torque repartition of 60/40 so it has a (little) feeling of a RWD. To improve feeling and reduce the loss of power some people change the transfer box ratio to have 50/50.
I don’t have any clue for website of conversions but you should find some help here!
By the way some parts are no longer produced by Ford so you may have to buy second hand stuff (you'll find plenty of parts on the sale section).
Good luck for your project and add some picture if you go for a cossie setup
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Originally Posted by july1
The escort Cosworth has a modified floor to receive the engine and transmission.
The engine is in longitudinal position when all the rest of the escort production was transversal.
This car has only been produced as a 4wd (all the rest is FWD except the 2000 RS 4x4 (I don't know what has been sold on USA (I know the cossie weren't but for the rest??)
The engine is based on the sierra plant, which has been early made as a RWD.
The system has a torque repartition of 60/40 so it has a (little) feeling of a RWD. To improve feeling and reduce the loss of power some people change the transfer box ratio to have 50/50.
I don’t have any clue for website of conversions but you should find some help here!
By the way some parts are no longer produced by Ford so you may have to buy second hand stuff (you'll find plenty of parts on the sale section).
Good luck for your project and add some picture if you go for a cossie setup
The engine is in longitudinal position when all the rest of the escort production was transversal.
This car has only been produced as a 4wd (all the rest is FWD except the 2000 RS 4x4 (I don't know what has been sold on USA (I know the cossie weren't but for the rest??)
The engine is based on the sierra plant, which has been early made as a RWD.
The system has a torque repartition of 60/40 so it has a (little) feeling of a RWD. To improve feeling and reduce the loss of power some people change the transfer box ratio to have 50/50.
I don’t have any clue for website of conversions but you should find some help here!
By the way some parts are no longer produced by Ford so you may have to buy second hand stuff (you'll find plenty of parts on the sale section).
Good luck for your project and add some picture if you go for a cossie setup
Did they come with a Transaxle or is the transmission underneath the Driver?
Meaning does it go Engine > transmission > Differential > Front Drive shaft / Rear Drive shaft
Like the BMW xDrive or the Infinity AWD system
Or does it go Engine > transmission > Differential > right to the Front Differential then comes out the drive shaft the rear differential like Like the Audi A4
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Chris-
The Escort RS Cosworth drivetrain layout is similar to a US pickup. Longitudinal engine -> transmission with integrated transfer case -> drive shaft to front axle -> driveshaft to rear axle. The MT75 transmission/transfer case can be sourced out of the UK.
The problem you will run into is with the front axle. On both the Escort RS Cosworth and the Sierra RS Cosworth it is integrated in the 2.0L engine oil pan.
E-mail me if you could use pics of the drivetrain.
The Escort RS Cosworth drivetrain layout is similar to a US pickup. Longitudinal engine -> transmission with integrated transfer case -> drive shaft to front axle -> driveshaft to rear axle. The MT75 transmission/transfer case can be sourced out of the UK.
The problem you will run into is with the front axle. On both the Escort RS Cosworth and the Sierra RS Cosworth it is integrated in the 2.0L engine oil pan.
E-mail me if you could use pics of the drivetrain.
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Originally Posted by MIbluEscos
Chris-
The Escort RS Cosworth drivetrain layout is similar to a US pickup. Longitudinal engine -> transmission with integrated transfer case -> drive shaft to front axle -> driveshaft to rear axle. The MT75 transmission/transfer case can be sourced out of the UK.
The problem you will run into is with the front axle. On both the Escort RS Cosworth and the Sierra RS Cosworth it is integrated in the 2.0L engine oil pan.
E-mail me if you could use pics of the drivetrain.
The Escort RS Cosworth drivetrain layout is similar to a US pickup. Longitudinal engine -> transmission with integrated transfer case -> drive shaft to front axle -> driveshaft to rear axle. The MT75 transmission/transfer case can be sourced out of the UK.
The problem you will run into is with the front axle. On both the Escort RS Cosworth and the Sierra RS Cosworth it is integrated in the 2.0L engine oil pan.
E-mail me if you could use pics of the drivetrain.
For the front wheels I am thinking about using a ford Probe axles and drive assamblie
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Check out this link for pics of the MT75 and the T5 transmissions (3/4 of the way down the page).
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/gearbox.htm
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/gearbox.htm
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Originally Posted by MIbluEscos
Check out this link for pics of the MT75 and the T5 transmissions (3/4 of the way down the page).
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/gearbox.htm
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/gearbox.htm
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#8
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Converting the T56 to 4wd can be done but its a lot of work. I've seen a TVR fitted with a T56 box and MT75 transfer box. It was pretty much a one off as far as I know.
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Originally Posted by sailorbob
Converting the T56 to 4wd can be done but its a lot of work. I've seen a TVR fitted with a T56 box and MT75 transfer box. It was pretty much a one off as far as I know.
Here is what I am thining about doing. I already have the T-5 and need to get the transfer box off of a MT75. After I have the two componits have my brother desing a couplaing / adapter that will bolt right up to the T-5's out put shaft and bolt right onto the Transferbox of the Mt-75. I could have it water jet cut or laser cut I know of a few plants around that do the CMC machining.
What do you think of that consept? I think it will work.
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Hey Chris, I've thought about making the T56 into an all wheel drive trans also. I want it because it's strong and has an extra gear for the highway. BTW I'm an American living in Italy. If you need any help or pics let me know and I'll try to help you. Also I know Mustangs up and down as I've owned about 3 of them. I was thinking of putting one of my spare engines in a LX and running it against some of the locals.
#11
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There may be an off the shelf solution when using a T5, I believe the 1982 - 1985 Jeep CJ-7 had a T5 gearbox with a Dana 300 transfer box. Don't know how strong these are though.
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Originally Posted by sailorbob
There may be an off the shelf solution when using a T5, I believe the 1982 - 1985 Jeep CJ-7 had a T5 gearbox with a Dana 300 transfer box. Don't know how strong these are though.
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Originally Posted by july1
Sell your mustang and by a complete cossie!!! The V8 sounds better and has more torque but you will enjoy to drive a supercharged engine and to own a car not seen on streets!
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I just was told from Ford Parts UK that they no longer carry the transfercase for the Escort Corsworth does anybody have any websites or other companies that might offer one?
Thank you
Chris
Thank you
Chris
#16
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The Escort Cosworth transfer box is the same as the Sierra Cosworth 4x4 transfer box, there are plenty of second hand ones around. These are essentially the same as the standard Sierra and Granada/Scorpio 4x4 transfer boxes except for a vent hole for the double lipped radial oil seal if you have difficulty sourcing a Cosworth unit.
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Originally Posted by sailorbob
The Escort Cosworth transfer box is the same as the Sierra Cosworth 4x4 transfer box, there are plenty of second hand ones around. These are essentially the same as the standard Sierra and Granada/Scorpio 4x4 transfer boxes except for a vent hole for the double lipped radial oil seal if you have difficulty sourcing a Cosworth unit.
Thank you for the reply and thank you for the info
Chris
#18
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I don't know the likelyhood of getting just a transfer box on it's own but I've seen secondhand Sierra boxes for about £200.00, there's a Cosworth box on Ebay at the moment http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...sPageName=WDVW
#19
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Looks like early Granada 4x4 gearboxes were T5 based, see the picture on http://hometown.aol.co.uk/simonmd2000/4x4granada2.html
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Originally Posted by sailorbob
Converting the T56 to 4wd can be done but its a lot of work. I've seen a TVR fitted with a T56 box and MT75 transfer box. It was pretty much a one off as far as I know.
#22
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there have been sierra xr4x4 boxes on ebay that went for as low as £50
you'd still need to faff about with the bellhousing as it's an integral part of the casing on the MT75
the split is 66/34 and from what i have seen, due to the nature of the split being the size of the gears inside the transfer box, you can't make it 50/50
you'd still need to faff about with the bellhousing as it's an integral part of the casing on the MT75
the split is 66/34 and from what i have seen, due to the nature of the split being the size of the gears inside the transfer box, you can't make it 50/50
#23
Originally Posted by july1
The system has a torque repartition of 60/40 so it has a (little) feeling of a RWD. To improve feeling and reduce the loss of power some people change the transfer box ratio to have 50/50.
Thanks and regards,
Rain
#24
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it's the way the gears are split inside the transfer box
there would be no way to split the torque without changing the whole transfer box
it's because the box turns twice to the rar as opposed to the front that you get more torque to the rear
it's really complicated without pics, and seeing as me baby is home now, i won't be able to get any until the morning at the earliest
there would be no way to split the torque without changing the whole transfer box
it's because the box turns twice to the rar as opposed to the front that you get more torque to the rear
it's really complicated without pics, and seeing as me baby is home now, i won't be able to get any until the morning at the earliest
#25
I'm not sure how the box is built, but if there is possible to change gears which pass the torque to the rear, then it should work?
Is there some special company who sells this kind of gears? Or do we have to get these from another cars box?
Is there some special company who sells this kind of gears? Or do we have to get these from another cars box?
Originally Posted by dojj
it's the way the gears are split inside the transfer box
there would be no way to split the torque without changing the whole transfer box
it's because the box turns twice to the rar as opposed to the front that you get more torque to the rear
it's really complicated without pics, and seeing as me baby is home now, i won't be able to get any until the morning at the earliest
there would be no way to split the torque without changing the whole transfer box
it's because the box turns twice to the rar as opposed to the front that you get more torque to the rear
it's really complicated without pics, and seeing as me baby is home now, i won't be able to get any until the morning at the earliest
#27
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ok then, here are the various bits that go into the transfer box:
you've got the input from the gearbox for starters
the spline on the end of which, turns this
which, through the power of gear reduction magic, turns this
this is what makes the torque slipt the 1/3 forwards 2/3 backwards, it's got 3 sets of slipnes in it in order to take the drive from the 3 cogs and transmit drive to this bit on the rear end
and this bit on the front
this long cog also drives the viscous coupling in the transfer box
as you can see, there are a set of slipnes on the inside and a set of splines on the outside of the viscous coupling
this is to make sure that the inner bit turns at the same rate as the outer bit (but more on that later)
the bit that sticks out through the middle of the centre of the viscouls coupling also drives this
again, more on that arcane art later on
so, you have this bit
sitting in this bit, like so
but it's not being driven by this bit
there is no mechanical drive transmited through this bit whatsoever at this time
that happens when this bit is slide over the top like so
remember the 3 sets of splines i mentioned earlier?
the central section gets driven by the 3 cogs and the rear section drives this bit
this time i've shown it WITH the drive gear in place
then you have this bit
which sits inside the 3 cogs
this is what causes the rear shaft to spin at twice the speed on the front shaft
onto this you slide the viscous coupling like this
and you can see that there is a fair amount still sticking out the middle
thats not a problem, because they drive this bit
which is the drive gear for the front prop
it spins this chain
which costs £160 from ford apparently (well, thats what i was charged )
and that chain drives this bit
as you can see, that bit's also got the hole in it for the splines from the front prop to slot into
as you can see, it's fairly smple but it's a bit of a nightmare to explain to anyone
what you should realise though is that when the viscous fails, it will only drive the wheel thats got the least amount of resistance
maddoldbugger discovered this when he blew his viscous, with one front wheel up in the air and the car in gear, that one wheel would rotate quite happily with no drive going to the rest of the wheels
the only reason your cars move when the viscous is shagged is because all the wheels are spinning at the same time, so you get drive, but if you were to remove the front prop you would find that the viscous is the only thing thats transmitting drive to the rear wheels until it fails, then you have no drive whatsoever
told you it's all a bit complicated and magical
ok, hopefully thats explained what everyone wanted to know, but you can't get the split to go 50/50 unless you change that central cog system and change the diffs to the same ratio
you've got the input from the gearbox for starters
the spline on the end of which, turns this
which, through the power of gear reduction magic, turns this
this is what makes the torque slipt the 1/3 forwards 2/3 backwards, it's got 3 sets of slipnes in it in order to take the drive from the 3 cogs and transmit drive to this bit on the rear end
and this bit on the front
this long cog also drives the viscous coupling in the transfer box
as you can see, there are a set of slipnes on the inside and a set of splines on the outside of the viscous coupling
this is to make sure that the inner bit turns at the same rate as the outer bit (but more on that later)
the bit that sticks out through the middle of the centre of the viscouls coupling also drives this
again, more on that arcane art later on
so, you have this bit
sitting in this bit, like so
but it's not being driven by this bit
there is no mechanical drive transmited through this bit whatsoever at this time
that happens when this bit is slide over the top like so
remember the 3 sets of splines i mentioned earlier?
the central section gets driven by the 3 cogs and the rear section drives this bit
this time i've shown it WITH the drive gear in place
then you have this bit
which sits inside the 3 cogs
this is what causes the rear shaft to spin at twice the speed on the front shaft
onto this you slide the viscous coupling like this
and you can see that there is a fair amount still sticking out the middle
thats not a problem, because they drive this bit
which is the drive gear for the front prop
it spins this chain
which costs £160 from ford apparently (well, thats what i was charged )
and that chain drives this bit
as you can see, that bit's also got the hole in it for the splines from the front prop to slot into
as you can see, it's fairly smple but it's a bit of a nightmare to explain to anyone
what you should realise though is that when the viscous fails, it will only drive the wheel thats got the least amount of resistance
maddoldbugger discovered this when he blew his viscous, with one front wheel up in the air and the car in gear, that one wheel would rotate quite happily with no drive going to the rest of the wheels
the only reason your cars move when the viscous is shagged is because all the wheels are spinning at the same time, so you get drive, but if you were to remove the front prop you would find that the viscous is the only thing thats transmitting drive to the rear wheels until it fails, then you have no drive whatsoever
told you it's all a bit complicated and magical
ok, hopefully thats explained what everyone wanted to know, but you can't get the split to go 50/50 unless you change that central cog system and change the diffs to the same ratio
#28
Very nice info about the 33/67 torque-split in the MT75 box!
Does this mean that the CWP-ratio in the rear diff and the front diff are different?
As I understand it, the planetary gear alters the speed between front- and rear output, or do I misunderstand the whole thing?
I belive I have read that R&D Transmission has a version of the MT75 for competition use, and that was described as 50/50 split with viscous center-differential.
Anybody know anything about this transmission?
By the way, does R&D have a website?
ESV
Does this mean that the CWP-ratio in the rear diff and the front diff are different?
As I understand it, the planetary gear alters the speed between front- and rear output, or do I misunderstand the whole thing?
I belive I have read that R&D Transmission has a version of the MT75 for competition use, and that was described as 50/50 split with viscous center-differential.
Anybody know anything about this transmission?
By the way, does R&D have a website?
ESV
#29
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the diffs are the same ratio but because the front power is transfered by a cog twice the size, you get half the torque
if you look at the second picture form the bottom you will see that the rear power is transfered by the small shaft and the front power is sent via the bigger cog on the chain
the internal mechanismes turn at different rates but the output is the same speed, the output the from the gearbox is also the same as you would normally find on a rwd box, but the speed up and speed down inside makes it the same again as the normal rwd setup
it's all a bit complicated until you've got one in bitsin your hands so yo ucan see what you are talking baout, if i could put up a moving diagram i would but i nither have the skills nor the programmes to do it
if you look at the second picture form the bottom you will see that the rear power is transfered by the small shaft and the front power is sent via the bigger cog on the chain
the internal mechanismes turn at different rates but the output is the same speed, the output the from the gearbox is also the same as you would normally find on a rwd box, but the speed up and speed down inside makes it the same again as the normal rwd setup
it's all a bit complicated until you've got one in bitsin your hands so yo ucan see what you are talking baout, if i could put up a moving diagram i would but i nither have the skills nor the programmes to do it
#30
Ahh, know I understand that there is no difference in speed between the output front and rear.
Only one thing a bit unclear:
Does this mean the viscous unit runs constantly with a slip because of the internal speed difference?
ESV
Only one thing a bit unclear:
Does this mean the viscous unit runs constantly with a slip because of the internal speed difference?
ESV
#31
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the vc is like on a normal car (as in a normal diff)
the only difference is that it's an almost instantanious lsd, none of this "x amount of slip before it grabs" business
because the front and rear props are turning at the same speeds the diff is fine, when you go round a corner, the (i think i remember what it's all about) ackerman steering principle means that the diffs front and rear do the work rather than the centre one
it's only when you put drive into the box that you get a slip in the front and rear props when the traction starts to break on the rear, the front prop sees drive going to it to power up the front wheels
in a straight line, it's a normal 2wd car under normal conditions
when there is any sort of drive being sent through, everything is ready to give the extra drive to the front
as i said, unless you see it in your hands and understand what it's all about, it's a bit tough to get your head around, for the best part of 18 months i thought i knew what i was talking about in relation to the drive, but then i found that i was thinking along the wrong lines, failure of the viscous means you nly get drive to the wheel with the least amount of resistance, as in an open diff
the only difference is that it's an almost instantanious lsd, none of this "x amount of slip before it grabs" business
because the front and rear props are turning at the same speeds the diff is fine, when you go round a corner, the (i think i remember what it's all about) ackerman steering principle means that the diffs front and rear do the work rather than the centre one
it's only when you put drive into the box that you get a slip in the front and rear props when the traction starts to break on the rear, the front prop sees drive going to it to power up the front wheels
in a straight line, it's a normal 2wd car under normal conditions
when there is any sort of drive being sent through, everything is ready to give the extra drive to the front
as i said, unless you see it in your hands and understand what it's all about, it's a bit tough to get your head around, for the best part of 18 months i thought i knew what i was talking about in relation to the drive, but then i found that i was thinking along the wrong lines, failure of the viscous means you nly get drive to the wheel with the least amount of resistance, as in an open diff
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