Flojet water injection pumps
#3
what else is needed to make a water injection?
Someone will probably give you a better answer though.
PJay
#5
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how much would i be looking for all this tho?
i have an frst and wanted the basic aquamist system.. the non mappable one! sdo want it to be the equivalant of this.. was seeing if it was cheaper this way!
i have an frst and wanted the basic aquamist system.. the non mappable one! sdo want it to be the equivalant of this.. was seeing if it was cheaper this way!
#6
The cheapest way would be the basic Aquamist system, BUT you would need to use this in conjunction with one of our ACT gauges (with the WI facility). This is because the Aquamist set up is flawed in that it only works off boost pressure. However, you want it to work of boost AND ACT. i.e. the water is ONLY injected into the engine if the boost is above (user set psi) AND the ACT is a above (user set temp). If you inject water into the system on a pressure only basis and the charge temp is not sufficient to absorb the water in the heat exchange process, it will lead to mis-fires and poor running.
#7
Spot on, although you really want a properly mapped set up...
Many thanks
PJay
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#14
Pete,
Forget it, on 803s and your turbo, you aint EVER gonna need WI with that intercooler .
However, when you do get a big boy's engine, then keep it all controlled by the ECU.
All you need then is:
Reservoir (although you can connect to your windscreen washer tank, using the redundant headlight pump to prime the Flojet),
Relay to switch pump on/off,
Tubing,
One way valve,
Filter,
Jet,
Flojet pump (which will sit nicely behind nearside headlight).
Cheap as chips!
Forget it, on 803s and your turbo, you aint EVER gonna need WI with that intercooler .
However, when you do get a big boy's engine, then keep it all controlled by the ECU.
All you need then is:
Reservoir (although you can connect to your windscreen washer tank, using the redundant headlight pump to prime the Flojet),
Relay to switch pump on/off,
Tubing,
One way valve,
Filter,
Jet,
Flojet pump (which will sit nicely behind nearside headlight).
Cheap as chips!
#21
If you fit the RS500 hoses, the extra girth (oh er ) catches on the blades of the alternator and so this has to be dropped down on an RS500 bracket (£50 delivered). However, you have to grind a piece off the side of the block to allow the bracket to fit (if you look underneath where the alternator currently bolts to, you will see).
Alternatively, you could chop the ends of the 500 cooler off (remembering to keep hold of them in case of future requirements) and the ones off your 4x4 one to weld these to the 500 item (or better still, buy a £30 2wd item to do this to, as a 4x4 one is worth £80-100). This negates having to spend £150 for the RS500 boost hose kit and the £50 for the drop bracket (as well as having to chop 1" lengths off you old hoses to sleave down the insides of the 500 hoses to fit on the turbo and throttle body). If you did ever get a T4, you could reverse the process.
The choice they say, is yours... .
Alternatively, you could chop the ends of the 500 cooler off (remembering to keep hold of them in case of future requirements) and the ones off your 4x4 one to weld these to the 500 item (or better still, buy a £30 2wd item to do this to, as a 4x4 one is worth £80-100). This negates having to spend £150 for the RS500 boost hose kit and the £50 for the drop bracket (as well as having to chop 1" lengths off you old hoses to sleave down the insides of the 500 hoses to fit on the turbo and throttle body). If you did ever get a T4, you could reverse the process.
The choice they say, is yours... .
#25
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would a normal relay work with this??
washer jets pipe would work aswell wouldnt it for the water pipe....
seriously thinking now
also whee wopuld ay get a wiring diagram to wire it all in from?
washer jets pipe would work aswell wouldnt it for the water pipe....
seriously thinking now
also whee wopuld ay get a wiring diagram to wire it all in from?
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