NAKRS

G REG 4X4 STG3 D GREENS -31 T3 TURBO 3 BAR MAP SENSOR SCORPION ZORST PIPERCROSS INDUCTION 1.5 BAR INSTALLED 2MONTHS AGO MY BABY WAS RUNNING LIKE A DREAM FOR 2 YEARS RESCENTLY DEVELOPED A MISSFIRE UNDER HARD ACCELERATION CHANGED PLUGS WAS STILL THERE CHANGED COIL PROBLEM SOLVED ACCEL SUPER COIL WITH RESISTOR USED ON V8'S NOT SURE IF I DID THE RIGHT THING THOUGH,DROVE FOR 2 WEEKS LIKE THAT NO PROBLEMS UNTIL CAR OVERHEATED WHIST IDLING AT THE LIGHTS COZ THE FANS DID NOT KICK IN ,THINK ITS THE SWITCH ON RADIATOR AFTER THAT SHE JUST WONT START

THERE IS FUEL SPRAYING OUT THE INJECTORS THERE IS SPARK AT THE PLUGS, THE PHASE WAS RECENTLY REPLACED THERE IS A LITTLE SWITCH BEHIND THE ECU COVER I TRACED THE WIRES ALL THE WAY INTO THE ECU ANY IDEAS WHY? FLICKED TO THE RIGHT IT STARTS FLICKEDTO LEFT IT CUTS THE ENGINE OUT,WITH IGNITION ON THE SWITCH FLICKED TO THE RIGHT THE PUMP ZZZZZZ FOR A FEW SECONDS FLICKED TO THE LEFT IT ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ ALL THE TIME NONE STOP
I HAD A TURBO TIMER AND DIGITAL REV, BOOST, OIL ,WATER ,GAUGE ,ALL IN ONE FITTED JUST BEFOR THIS PROBLEM.
I HAVE DISCONNECTED IT ALL AGAIN TO SEE IF WILL START,MY ORIGINAL REV COUNTER USED TO BOUNCE ALL OVER 7000RPM UNDER NORMAL DRIVING DOES THIS MEAN ANYTHING I DID FIT THE ORIGINAL COIL BACK NO LUCK THE BATTERY IS NEW THE CAR DOES SWING STRONG ONE MORNING SHE STARTED DROVE AROND THE BLOCK SWITCHED HER OFF TRIED AGAIN AFTER AN HOUR SHE NEVER STARTED AGAIN

IS THERE ANYTHING THAT CAN STOP THE CAR FROM STARTING EVEN IF THER IS FUEL AND SPARK , ALARM MAYBE IVE GOT A CLIFFORD TELL TALE ALARM BUT ITS NOT CONNECTED AS AN IMMOBILSER IVE GOT THIS SMALL ROUND THING THAT LOOK LIKE A 5P AND MAKES A PEEEP SOUND WHEN U TOUCH THE 2 TOGETHER STILL NO START.EVENS GOT ME THE FAULT FINDING CD OFF EBAY .

I HAVENT DRIVEN MY BABY COMING 2 MONTHS NOW AND I REALLY MISS HER THIS IS THE ONLY 4X4 COSSIE IN SOUTH AFRICA SO NO 1 HAS ANY IDEA OF FAULT FINDING ON THESE ENGINES PLEASE HELP MANY THANKS.

jon@work

iTrader: (5)

BASIC FAULT FINDING GUIDE FOR COSSIE ECUS (by Simon @ SECS)

NOTE: Some of these results can be affected by an alarm system or immobilizer. I have assumed the car has a 2.5 bar/3.0 bar map sensor.
If SECS monitor is fitted, unplug it! (A faulty monitor or incorrectly fitted can cause engine not to run)

1) Ensure ignition is OFF.
2) Remove rear of ecu plug cover and insert plug back into ecu.
3) Turn ignition back on (do not start engine)
4) MAIN POWER CHECK: Check for DC voltage of at least 11.5V between ecu pins 19 and 20.
5) REFERENCE CHECK: Check for DC voltage of around 4.8 to 5.2V between pins 11 and 30.
6) MAP SENSOR CHECK: Check for DC voltage of approx 1.8 to 2.5V between pins 11 and 15.
7) THROTTLE CLOSED:
4x4: Check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.
8) THROTTLE FULLY OPEN:
4x4: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.
9) Turn ignition off, unplug ecu, turn ignition back on (don’t forget immobilizer if fitted)
10) CRANK SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 3 and 4 between 300 and 1200 ohms.
11) CRANK SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 3 and 4 while cranking engine - should be at
least 2V.
11) PHASE SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 5 and 23 between 300 and 1200 ohms.
12) PHASE SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 5 and 23 while cranking engine - should be at
least 1.5 - 2V.
12) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 18 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
13) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 35 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
14) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 33 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
15) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 32 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
NOTE: INJECTOR TESTS MAY NEED MAIN RELAY ENERGISED ON L1 and L6 ecus (link pins 1 and 10 first)
16) IGNITION TRIGGER: Read voltage between pins 24 and 25, should be at least 4.5V.
17) IGNITION TEST: BEWARE DANGEROUS VOLTAGES ON PLUG/COIL LEADS.
Quickly link pins 24 and 25 on and off this will FIRE the ignition coil. Rotate dizzy by moving car in gear to point rotor arm at one plug lead and remove spark plug (earthing it on chassis or engine) to see spark. Try for each plug in turn. Or remove king lead at dizzy and place end within 1 centimetre of earth to see a big spark.
18) Place a temporary wire link from pin 1 to pin 10 (energises ecu power relay) - you should hear a click.
19) Quickly link pins 19 to 28 to test fuel pump runs.
20) COOLANT TEMP: Check resistance pins 29 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)
21) CHARGE TEMP: Check resistance pins 31 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)

Unplug the ecu and turn the ignition on. If the fuel pump runs the relay has been wired to run permanently or the relay is jammed.
However, if the pump is running continuously, this WILL NOT stop the car from starting.

Some chips don’t drive the fuel pump relay output properly as this is used for other features like ALS etc.... (PECTEL/AHMED chips mainly). In these situations, the pump is rewired to run continuously.

If however, the pump is wired correctly and working properly, if it runs continuously when the ecu is plugged in only, then the ECU and/or chip may have failed.

The pump is ok to run continuously

NAKRS

THANKS FOR THE INFO,
MY BABY HAS FINALLY STARTED AND IT WAS THE SIMPLEST THING THAT CAUSED THE THE PROBLEM, 'THE PLUGS' NGKR BCR8ES I THINK THEY CANT HANDLE THE 1.5 BAR BOOST AND THE GREENS JUST FLOOD THEM WITH PETROL HENCE THE NO STARTING.

twitchyrear

shame it started i was going to say give me 2wks accomadation in capetown and ill come and fix it