Missing torque....what do you think?
Thread Starter
Virgin
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Missing torque....what do you think?
I've just had a Brand new 0 miles zetec 130 engine fitted to my car and now its run in its been set up with a unichip on a 1.6 ECU...
While the car produces 142Bhp @6330Rpm and 126lb/ft torque @ 4796Rpm ther is a fairly big dip in the torque curve from 3000Rpm through to 4250Rpm.
torque rises from 100lb/ft@1830 and reaches its first peak @3000Rpm of 117lb/ft it then drops down to a bottom of 105lb/ft @ 3600Rpm before rising to 112 lb/ft @ 3900Rpm, then curves up to reach a peak of 126lb/ft @4796 before gently dropping away to 119lb/ft @6000 Rpm...
As far as I am concerned this trough really shouldnt be there and there is a cause, this cause is what I need to find out...
The engine is fitted with the following:
2.0 throttlebody
mondeo 2.0 inlet manifold
130 injection rail and injectors
Unichip
K&N 57i for a 1.6 escort
late 1.6 maf and intake trunking
Powerflow cat back exhaust
1.8 130 exhaust manifold
1.6 downpipe and cat.
Engine Advantages say that the downpipe and cat are restricting the flow out of the gasses...
The Allen ford technician says that even with the unichip it may be a mapping issue and that because my engine revs through cleanly that replacing my 1.6 cat and downpipe with a 130 item would not change anything, neither would removing the cat...
He suggests I plug a 130 ECU into my system.
I've been considering getting the following:
Banshee intake
2.0 maf or use the 1800 one I have lying around
K&N 57i to suit the maf
Trust 4-2-1 manifold
Powerflow cat replacement pipe.
am I asking too much of this engine, ie is it normal for the zetec to drop torque like this and will buying these parts do anything to fix that dip in the curve, and if so, do enough, to justify the cash outlay for the parts....
I have no wish to waste money on parts which will not sort it out....
Many thanks...
Ray.
While the car produces 142Bhp @6330Rpm and 126lb/ft torque @ 4796Rpm ther is a fairly big dip in the torque curve from 3000Rpm through to 4250Rpm.
torque rises from 100lb/ft@1830 and reaches its first peak @3000Rpm of 117lb/ft it then drops down to a bottom of 105lb/ft @ 3600Rpm before rising to 112 lb/ft @ 3900Rpm, then curves up to reach a peak of 126lb/ft @4796 before gently dropping away to 119lb/ft @6000 Rpm...
As far as I am concerned this trough really shouldnt be there and there is a cause, this cause is what I need to find out...
The engine is fitted with the following:
2.0 throttlebody
mondeo 2.0 inlet manifold
130 injection rail and injectors
Unichip
K&N 57i for a 1.6 escort
late 1.6 maf and intake trunking
Powerflow cat back exhaust
1.8 130 exhaust manifold
1.6 downpipe and cat.
Engine Advantages say that the downpipe and cat are restricting the flow out of the gasses...
The Allen ford technician says that even with the unichip it may be a mapping issue and that because my engine revs through cleanly that replacing my 1.6 cat and downpipe with a 130 item would not change anything, neither would removing the cat...
He suggests I plug a 130 ECU into my system.
I've been considering getting the following:
Banshee intake
2.0 maf or use the 1800 one I have lying around
K&N 57i to suit the maf
Trust 4-2-1 manifold
Powerflow cat replacement pipe.
am I asking too much of this engine, ie is it normal for the zetec to drop torque like this and will buying these parts do anything to fix that dip in the curve, and if so, do enough, to justify the cash outlay for the parts....
I have no wish to waste money on parts which will not sort it out....
Many thanks...
Ray.
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
From: N.Ireland
id put my money on the 57i being the problem. zetecs tend to run a bit warm and sometimes have issues with torque loss when induction kits are fitted. a simple but effective way around this and to make the car feel so much better is to source a flexible intake pipe (maybe 1.5-2 feet long and suitably sized) and connect that to the MAF then rout the other end down behind the bumper where the lower bits of the airbox used to be and mount the cone filter to that and secure it to a bracket or something.
ive experimented with panel filters and modded airboxes, induction kits, heat shields, etc. and this is the best solution. you should notice an improvement instantly and if mounted low enough produced quite a lairy sound when you step on it compared to the sound of an induction kit or panel filter.
take into consideration the new location of the filter when the road is wet and try to avoid splashing through puddles on that side unless you want to make a guard for the filter, also remember to clean the filter regularly as it is in a somewhat open location. out of all the filters ive tried i found stainless pleated mesh filters work the best as they can be cleaned with a brush and soaked in degreaser to completely clean them and then oiled up with a little crafty spraying of some wd-40 or gt-85.
once you try this setup you will never go back to a plain old induction kit or panel filter again.
ive experimented with panel filters and modded airboxes, induction kits, heat shields, etc. and this is the best solution. you should notice an improvement instantly and if mounted low enough produced quite a lairy sound when you step on it compared to the sound of an induction kit or panel filter.
take into consideration the new location of the filter when the road is wet and try to avoid splashing through puddles on that side unless you want to make a guard for the filter, also remember to clean the filter regularly as it is in a somewhat open location. out of all the filters ive tried i found stainless pleated mesh filters work the best as they can be cleaned with a brush and soaked in degreaser to completely clean them and then oiled up with a little crafty spraying of some wd-40 or gt-85.
once you try this setup you will never go back to a plain old induction kit or panel filter again.
Thread Starter
Virgin
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Mapping was done on a rolling road with cooling being provided by a big fan, with bonnet open (not me 
). Engine was run up several times over the space of an hour or so and revved as it slowed down (curious). Not a big fan of RR figures but wheel Bhp, to my mind the real test went like this...
1830RPM 29BHp, 3000RPM 53Bhp flat to just over 3500 before rising again, 4000Rpm 65Bhp, 5000Rpm 90Bhp, 6000Rpm 103Bhp peaking at 6330 107Bhp.
Recommend someone in the essex area to remap this properly please?
Ray.
). Engine was run up several times over the space of an hour or so and revved as it slowed down (curious). Not a big fan of RR figures but wheel Bhp, to my mind the real test went like this...1830RPM 29BHp, 3000RPM 53Bhp flat to just over 3500 before rising again, 4000Rpm 65Bhp, 5000Rpm 90Bhp, 6000Rpm 103Bhp peaking at 6330 107Bhp.
Recommend someone in the essex area to remap this properly please?
Ray.
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
From: N.Ireland
im telling you man try it and take the car for a spin on the road, even if it doesnt cure the problem alltogether it will help more than you would think. plus you can expect to see a few more lbs/ft and bhp, not too bad for an allmost free mod.
Thread Starter
Virgin
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by DmcL
im telling you man try it and take the car for a spin on the road, even if it doesnt cure the problem alltogether it will help more than you would think. plus you can expect to see a few more lbs/ft and bhp, not too bad for an allmost free mod.
I'm thinking of a design for a surround for the intake as I want to try and keep it clean-ish too, will have to source some trunking as well
Ray.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post