urgent - cossie problem :(
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Team HOTHOT!
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Huddersfield Drives: Trains ;)
urgent - cossie problem :(
just changed the engine mounts in the cos, now i have an odd problem.
car starts, revs low, then ticks over normally, rev it to 3000 rpm, it cuts out and backfires, stalls and then will restart on the key after about 5 seconds, but cranks over and fires first time.
only done it since i've changed the engine mounts this morning, i'm thinking i've disturbed something and its out of place now?
also, when taken out to attempt to drive, it struggles to rev, and then at 3k, backfires and cuts out.
but free-reving its spot on.
and its only done it since changing the engine mounts today.
anything for me to check?
car starts, revs low, then ticks over normally, rev it to 3000 rpm, it cuts out and backfires, stalls and then will restart on the key after about 5 seconds, but cranks over and fires first time.
only done it since i've changed the engine mounts this morning, i'm thinking i've disturbed something and its out of place now?
also, when taken out to attempt to drive, it struggles to rev, and then at 3k, backfires and cuts out.
but free-reving its spot on.
and its only done it since changing the engine mounts today.
anything for me to check?
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 613
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Heres the fault finding procedure secs wrote for us the other week. I'm sure this will find the problem if its ecu/ sensor related 
BASIC FAULT FINDING GUIDE FOR COSSIE ECUS
NOTES:
Some of these results can be affected by an alarm system or imobilizer.
I have assumed the car has a 2.5 bar/3.0 bar map sensor and is 4x4 L8/P8.
If SECS monitor is fitted, unplug it !
(A faulty monitor or incorrectly fitted can cause engine not to run)
1) Ensure ignition is OFF.
2) Remove rear of ecu plug cover and insert plug back into ecu.
3) Turn ignition back on (do not start engine)
4) MAIN POWER CHECK: Check for DC voltage of at least 11.5 volts between ecu pins 19 and 20.
5) REFERENCE CHECK: Check for DC voltage of around 4.8 to 5.2 volts between pins 11 and 30.
6) MAP SENSOR CHECK: Check for DC voltage of around 1.8 to 2.5 volts between pins 11 and 15.
7) THROTTLE CLOSED: Check for DC voltage less than 0.5 volts between pins 11 and 17.
8) THROTTLE FULLY OPEN: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5 volts between pins 11 and 17.
9) Turn ignition off, unlpug ecu, turn ignition back on (dont forget imobilizer if fitted)
10) CRANK SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 3 and 4 between 300 and 1200 ohms.
11) CRANK SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 3 and 4 while cranking engine.
Should be at least 2 volts.
11) PHASE SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 5 and 23 between 300 and 1200 ohms.
12) PHASE SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 5 and 23 while cranking engine.
Should be at least 1.5 - 2 volts.
12) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 18 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
13) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 35 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
14) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 33 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
15) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 32 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
16) IGNITION TRIGGER: Read voltage between pins 24 and 25, should be at least 4.5 volts.
17) IGNITION TEST: BEWARE DANGEROUS VOLTAGES ON PLUG/COIL LEADS.
Quickly link pins 24 and 25 on and off this will FIRE the ignition coil.
Rotate dizzi by moving car in gear to point rotor arm at one plug lead
and remove spark plug (earthing it on chassis or engine) to see spark.
(Dont touch it or you will fry)
Try for each plug in turn.
Or remove king lead at dizzi and place end within 1 centimetre of earth
to see a big spark.
18) Place a temporary wire link from pin 1 to pin 10. (energises ecu power relay)
You should hear a click.
19) Quickly link pins 19 to 28 to test fuel pump runs.
20) COOLANT TEMP: Check resistance pins 29 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)
21) CHARGE TEMP: Check resistance pins 31 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)
These are only basic tests but will find 99% of faults icon_mrgreen.gif
NOTES:
Some of these results can be affected by an alarm system or imobilizer.
I have assumed the car has a 2.5 bar/3.0 bar map sensor and is 4x4 L8/P8.
If SECS monitor is fitted, unplug it !
(A faulty monitor or incorrectly fitted can cause engine not to run)
1) Ensure ignition is OFF.
2) Remove rear of ecu plug cover and insert plug back into ecu.
3) Turn ignition back on (do not start engine)
4) MAIN POWER CHECK: Check for DC voltage of at least 11.5 volts between ecu pins 19 and 20.
5) REFERENCE CHECK: Check for DC voltage of around 4.8 to 5.2 volts between pins 11 and 30.
6) MAP SENSOR CHECK: Check for DC voltage of around 1.8 to 2.5 volts between pins 11 and 15.
7) THROTTLE CLOSED: Check for DC voltage less than 0.5 volts between pins 11 and 17.
8) THROTTLE FULLY OPEN: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5 volts between pins 11 and 17.
9) Turn ignition off, unlpug ecu, turn ignition back on (dont forget imobilizer if fitted)
10) CRANK SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 3 and 4 between 300 and 1200 ohms.
11) CRANK SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 3 and 4 while cranking engine.
Should be at least 2 volts.
11) PHASE SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 5 and 23 between 300 and 1200 ohms.
12) PHASE SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 5 and 23 while cranking engine.
Should be at least 1.5 - 2 volts.
12) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 18 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
13) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 35 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
14) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 33 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
15) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 32 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
16) IGNITION TRIGGER: Read voltage between pins 24 and 25, should be at least 4.5 volts.
17) IGNITION TEST: BEWARE DANGEROUS VOLTAGES ON PLUG/COIL LEADS.
Quickly link pins 24 and 25 on and off this will FIRE the ignition coil.
Rotate dizzi by moving car in gear to point rotor arm at one plug lead
and remove spark plug (earthing it on chassis or engine) to see spark.
(Dont touch it or you will fry)
Try for each plug in turn.
Or remove king lead at dizzi and place end within 1 centimetre of earth
to see a big spark.
18) Place a temporary wire link from pin 1 to pin 10. (energises ecu power relay)
You should hear a click.
19) Quickly link pins 19 to 28 to test fuel pump runs.
20) COOLANT TEMP: Check resistance pins 29 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)
21) CHARGE TEMP: Check resistance pins 31 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)
These are only basic tests but will find 99% of faults icon_mrgreen.gif
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Thread Starter
Team HOTHOT!
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 19,065
Likes: 1
From: Huddersfield Drives: Trains ;)
anyone else any ideas - surely someone has come accross this problem before?
and to add to what i already put above, after doing the engine mounts, the lambda sensor wires were shorted accross each other, and when i put the ignition on, the red wire melted to the black one - only noticed this when the car didnt start and a bit of smoke coming from under the turbo heatsheild
- woiuld this have caused any other sensors to fail? someone suggested the MAP sensor is fubard?
and to add to what i already put above, after doing the engine mounts, the lambda sensor wires were shorted accross each other, and when i put the ignition on, the red wire melted to the black one - only noticed this when the car didnt start and a bit of smoke coming from under the turbo heatsheild
- woiuld this have caused any other sensors to fail? someone suggested the MAP sensor is fubard?
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