Cosworth idle
03-03-2005, 06:02 PM
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Have you done anything to the engine or has it just started to happen....?
An engine can idle faster hunting for more fuel on tick over especially when a filter has been assed for example where the Co would need adjusting then the idle can be turned down on the idle screw.
Si
An engine can idle faster hunting for more fuel on tick over especially when a filter has been assed for example where the Co would need adjusting then the idle can be turned down on the idle screw.
Si
03-03-2005, 06:45 PM
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a small air leak on the vaccum side of the butterfly,idle speed control valve faulty/dirty
idle speed set incorrectly,leaking diaphram on a dump valve,throttle not fully closed at idle,incorrect fueling,
but to name a few
idle speed set incorrectly,leaking diaphram on a dump valve,throttle not fully closed at idle,incorrect fueling,
but to name a few
03-03-2005, 07:48 PM
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The thing is guys, when the car is cold it idles at 1k but when it get up to full operating temperature the idle rises to 13-1400 rpm 
I've checked for air leaks and all seems fine.
I've checked for air leaks and all seems fine.
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03-03-2005, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris Honeywell
Yes reduce your idle sped to about 1k
then it will idle at about 1k
hope this helps
then it will idle at about 1k
hope this helps
03-03-2005, 07:58 PM
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Water temp sensor, ISCV could be faulty or badly wired.
Mike should have a space ISCV of mine you can try.
Does disconnecting the ISCV when she's warm make a difference ? Revs should drop to base idle.
Mike should have a space ISCV of mine you can try.
Does disconnecting the ISCV when she's warm make a difference ? Revs should drop to base idle.
03-03-2005, 08:14 PM
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Ricky,
Let's start by assuming you've got no leaks,, (as you say you've checked )
Disconnect the idle valve and see if the idle drops - if it doesn't, remove the valve and seal off the hole in the throttle body with something appropriate. If idle drops now, then the valve is stuck open, if not then try and adjust the base idle setting with the bypass screw on the bottom of the throttle body.
If you can't adjust it down to 850-900rpm, then you HAVE got a leak somewhere between the throttle body and head.
Let's start by assuming you've got no leaks,, (as you say you've checked
)Disconnect the idle valve and see if the idle drops - if it doesn't, remove the valve and seal off the hole in the throttle body with something appropriate. If idle drops now, then the valve is stuck open, if not then try and adjust the base idle setting with the bypass screw on the bottom of the throttle body.
If you can't adjust it down to 850-900rpm, then you HAVE got a leak somewhere between the throttle body and head.
03-03-2005, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by frog
Water temp sensor, ISCV could be faulty or badly wired.
Mike should have a space ISCV of mine you can try.
Does disconnecting the ISCV when she's warm make a difference ? Revs should drop to base idle.
Mike should have a space ISCV of mine you can try.
Does disconnecting the ISCV when she's warm make a difference ? Revs should drop to base idle.
03-03-2005, 08:27 PM
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Ricky, gimme a shout if you need a hand or something.
If she was idling fine before, it's either a leak or a sensor/iscv in my opinion.
The idle screw doesn't move on its own, I wouldn't touch it unless you are 100% sure everything else.
Seems logical to me, but I might be missing something
If she was idling fine before, it's either a leak or a sensor/iscv in my opinion.
The idle screw doesn't move on its own, I wouldn't touch it unless you are 100% sure everything else.
Seems logical to me, but I might be missing something
03-03-2005, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Eagle
i was gonna say the blue water temp sender .. as i had the same type of thing on mine..changed it and went back to normal 
it turned out that the butterfly was sticking open a little too much 
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