richbogle

Hi guys im looking for advice! After removing the engine and takin sump of,i v found its spun a big eng shell on no4! I rebuilt the engine properly 4k ago using ACL bearings and at the time the engineer says all components lookd good for it (t m smith coatbridge) iv not had any bother till this.i find it very stressing and want the know the cause of it hapening? I changed the oil just b4 it hapend but i donf think its got anything to do with that.was using mobil 1 15 50 but due to it stop being made i put in a lucas oil which is 10 60. as soon as i heard it i new it was serious so shut it of. Thd crank is abit rough but not scored to death so mibi b saved.its a virgin crank. Takin everything bk to engineer 2moro. What i realy need to know is oil pump fucked now?? Oil presure never seemd 2 drop when it hapend! Heard people say DEFO change it and others say if it works DONT change it cos thers shitey copies out ther that will fuck up!!! so what will i do?? People say u can buy internals?? Or buy a kit with stronger spring to raise presure. Also prob need a conrod so if anyone has one let me know. Thanx for any advice guys...

mattman1234

why do you need a rod ?

dingla rs

iTrader: (2)

matt lewis sells oil pumps or graham goode sell kits

mattman1234

What was the reason for the rebuild,had it ever spun a shell before ?

TommyB

What was the oil clearence?

saph4be

i presume it was plastgauged at the very minimum whilst being rebuilt and the rods checked too as wee as the oil pump?

Toe Knee

iTrader: (2)

As above, did you check the clearances of the shells before rebuilding?! It's pretty important.......

Also what was the spec of the oil?! Not heard of anyone using Lucas oil in a cossie, plus for ref although Mobil 1 stopped making 15 50 they replaced it with a 10 60!!!!

If pressure was ok sounds unlikely to be pump, how much oil was in there btw and how fast we're you going?! When mine went on my old saph I hadn't checked the oil and was driving 'enthusiastically' and didn't realised I had a leak and spun a shell, actually welded them together

richbogle

May not need a rod al see what the engeneer says 2moro. The reason it got rebuilt b4 was bcos wen i bought it,it was boosting through the roof and melted the pistons! As for clearances,i thot the engineer wld have done that as he suplyd all the shells ect... The oil was bang on max, i was pos doing 70 80 at time but wasnt till i slowd down i heard it. The oil was a 10 60 grade oil...

Toe Knee

iTrader: (2)

Best check with them then mate, just cos he supplied the shells doesn't mean checked them :-/ always best to do it yourslf when you build it up. when I said grade is it mineral, semi or full synthetic?!
Also did you check how much oil was in it before you stripped it?!

phil_focus

you need to dry build the engine using plastiguage to check clearances. a supplier can't do this!

richbogle

I hear what ur sayn phil but it was him who bored block out,surfaced it and done all the head work so i thot if he done all that he wld have checkd this?

Turbosystems

iTrader: (5)

is this 2wd or 4wd

phil_focus

trouble is you need to fit the shells in the con rods and torque them up in the crank. maybe he did this, maybe he didn't you will have to check.

fingers crossed you find out why it happened so you can cure the fault. good luck to ya

wes

Probably only would have done this if you asked them to, when you got your bits back were the pistons / rods numbered and shells numbered and in pairs? If not then they probably weren't checked, if you check clearences and they are ok on a particular journal lets say bigend no1, the same pair of big end shells may not be in tolereance on journal no 4, it's VERY important to check them and then keep them labelled up so you know what shells are in tolerance on a particular journal.

Also, big end no 4 is the furthest away from the oil pump so i would look at replacing the pump if there are no other obvious clues to the failiure.

Is it a 2wd or 4x4 oil pump?

Toe Knee

iTrader: (2)

Worth finding out what he checked just a bit odd it only did it after 4k miles when you changed the oil. So was type of oil was it?! And was it still full when you stripped it?!

Either way would be worth sticking a new pump in now anyway when you re build it

RS2000CUSTOM

No 4 big end is a common fail on a Pinto / YB

Amongst many other "checks" to be carried out when I do a rebuild is the "roundness" of the big end of the con rod

This has a size of 55.00mm - 55.02mm MAXIMUM

Any more and the bearing will spin

as you can see you have a maximum of 0.02mm to play with

Hope this measurement helps

RS2000CUSTOM

Slightly different fail but heres a No 4 journal I broke in 2009

richbogle

Its 4wd mate

Turbosystems

iTrader: (5)

there's your reason

richbogle

New oil pump for it then or rebuild kit? Or what about these spring u can buy for higher presure??

RS2000CUSTOM

I would me more interested in the pre-build measurements and clearences as you have already stated that "oil pressure never seemed to drop" so therefore the pump must have been lifting some oil to allow pressure to build up in the first place.

As for the condition of the crank now, any scoring will burn out new bearing shells rapidly so I suggest the crank is measured on the damaged journal and at best a polish but if it is scored then you in for a crank grind

These engine spin at apprx 7000rpm and any imperfection in bearing surfaces can be catastrophic

If a big end bearing has spun then normally this will be 1 x new con rod and a crank grind and it may even have bent the crank

richbogle

Whare the hell do u buy a single conrod lol iv been kinda lookn about just incasd i do need one?

Turbosystems

iTrader: (5)

phone the known cossie engine builders for rods
no need for high pressure pumps get your self a big wing sump and a proper gated baffle

RS2000CUSTOM

A single conrod shop !

richbogle

Hahaha.... Conrod is fuckd! Tracked one down 2day so hopefully itl b back on road in cupla week.
So what will i do about the oil pump situation???

RS2000CUSTOM

Nothing at all wrong in a new pump to be fitted but ensure you first find the reason for the original fail as your current pump may be totally serviceable

dingla rs

iTrader: (2)

Mattlewis will sort you new pump for not a lot of coin

richbogle

Well engineer seems to recon thare has ben sum kind of shrapnel or posibly block not cleaned 100% last time engine work was done! How do i find out of my pumps ok? And.what do u mean servicable can u buy the guts of the pump??

Toe Knee

iTrader: (2)

Find it odd it managed to do 4k then dies just after you do an oil change still, any crap in the block should have damaged it way before then :-/ make sure if you get another rod it's all balanced with the others etc. Is the old one fucked then?!

mattman1234

Check the strainer flange,where it bolts on to the oil pump,it could have been overtighted.When this happens it bows the flange,and sucks in air.ok(well not ok ) at high revs,low revs no oil pressure,ie sitting in traffic.
thats what happened to mine from the previous owner

mattman1234

The guy probably would say that,its the easy answer,then you go away !

richbogle

Anow mate! What do u do tho... Conrod is nackard,he sayd he can resize it but i got another rod... What about oil pump situation then? Still dont know what to do,replace it?

Toe Knee

iTrader: (2)

My point was its all a bit odd that the engine was fine till the oil change was done at 4k.........

If your worried bout it mate change it now your having to rebuild it, just get it from a reputable supplier

richbogle

Fuck it! Matt lewis oil pump it is...cheers guys for all ur help and opinions