Focus RS mk1, Over revving (idle air valve changed already)
#1
15000
Thread Starter
Focus RS mk1, Over revving (idle air valve changed already)
Hi, well ill get straight to it- i recently bought a focus rs mk1 (after owning six saff's i wanted something a little more modern) when i puchased it it was perfect for me not the best but well happy after a couple of hundred miles it began to stall after changing gear or dipping the clutch to change gear ( only when giving it some to about 5k) ,would drive perfect if driving like my dad, so SPOKE to a friend at GS motorsport (as im too tight to book it in n im quite mechanically minded (i think lol)) he recommended a new idle air control valve so off i pop to buy one and thought id buy a new tps aswell just incase, i fit the parts (omg trickiest job ever to do on your own ) and reset the ecu buy un plugging the battery and leaving overnight, next morn started her up and the clocks pinged right round (i think that means ecu is reset?) and it fired up and idled at 1200 (which i thought normal on a cold day), so i let it warm up for five mins set off down the road, changed gear and yey no stalling but oh no now its revving at 1800 until my speed is around 2mph or lower and when im at 2 or lower it ticks over at 1k, so i thought the tps was wrong or fit wrong so i switched bk to the original and fit accordingly this made no difference, engine management light not on but it does seem thirsty (like a stage three saff kinda thirsty) any help would be greatly appreciated
53 plate mk 1 FRS has an aitrec front mount a k&n cone filter (with a k&n breathable bag round it???) a bluefin and a cat back system, there is no recirc valve or dump valve fit bt a few ppl have said that shouldnt matter and i didnt have one on my last cossy, oil and filter and plugs where changed as soon as i could after buying it about 500 miles ago, thanks again
53 plate mk 1 FRS has an aitrec front mount a k&n cone filter (with a k&n breathable bag round it???) a bluefin and a cat back system, there is no recirc valve or dump valve fit bt a few ppl have said that shouldnt matter and i didnt have one on my last cossy, oil and filter and plugs where changed as soon as i could after buying it about 500 miles ago, thanks again
#3
Resident Camel Stalker
Get a recirc back on mate and it'll drive so much better. Will be better on fuel too
Sounds like you could have an air leak. Popular one is down back of the engine. It has a white one way valve on it and is renowned for splitting.
Sounds like you could have an air leak. Popular one is down back of the engine. It has a white one way valve on it and is renowned for splitting.
#4
15000
Thread Starter
hi james and thanks, i have changed the pipes on the back of the engine with the one way valve so thats ruled out, been looking just now for more air leaks but no joy, do you know which way the recirc valve will go as both big pipes n the little on are just bunged up, thanks again
#5
PassionFord Regular
HI mate...i had this problem and turned out to be a massive hole in my down pipe. However it is know that speed sensor can cause stalling and high revs. i May be wrong
#7
15000
Thread Starter
i disconnected the speed sensor (is it under the battery on top of the gear box?) and this made no difference, but a friends said my speedo would go bouncy if the speed sensor was faulty?, there is a rattle coming from my down pipe possibly one of the heat sheild fixings, anybody know of a good decat or sports cat for decent money?
thanks for your help guys i will source a speed sensor from ford lol if thats what i unplugged and also take the exhaust off and have a look thanks again
thanks for your help guys i will source a speed sensor from ford lol if thats what i unplugged and also take the exhaust off and have a look thanks again
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#10
15000
Thread Starter
cheers, been to grahams GSmotorsport today n purchased a new speed sensor, got some carb cleaner to check for a leak, if im running a bluefin will removing it get the ecu to relearn wt it needs cit-tec? cheeRS again for the replies
#11
PassionFord Post Whore!!
I'd get these done on IDS (Ford diag tool) but you could try...
Disconnecting the battery over night should have reset the ECU, you could try removing the kam (keep alive memory) 3 amp fuse for a few mins then re-fit the fuse, leave to idle for a few mins then drive about 5 miles with varying throttle openings including wide-open-throttle to relearn it all.
Check for live feed to clutch switch and check resistance through the switch?
If removing speed sensor plug made no difference, save yourself the aggro (you'll see when you try and change it)
Disconnecting the battery over night should have reset the ECU, you could try removing the kam (keep alive memory) 3 amp fuse for a few mins then re-fit the fuse, leave to idle for a few mins then drive about 5 miles with varying throttle openings including wide-open-throttle to relearn it all.
Check for live feed to clutch switch and check resistance through the switch?
If removing speed sensor plug made no difference, save yourself the aggro (you'll see when you try and change it)
#12
15000
Thread Starter
1x new speed sensor fit, reset ecu as described, still no better to add isnult to injury my thermostat housing split, thanks to graham at gsmotorsort (again) ive sorted that out tonight, anyway i will have to borrow a multi meter tomoz n try the clutch switch i presume its on the pedal assembly? its becoming a pain to drive too, i have no luck lol, thanks for the advice dude, il keep updated thanks again
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