Cossy rear bushes (UPDATE)
#1
Cossy rear bushes (UPDATE)
Doing some resto work on the saff at the mo,
Changing the rear beam bushes and anti roll bar bushes,
But some peps have said dont bother with the trailing arm bushes..
Has anybody changed these before? Is it worth doing?
With the arms off they seem quite loose and worn so may decide to change them anyway.
Is it best to stick to ford jobbies or use poly's instead?
Cheers Dean.
Changing the rear beam bushes and anti roll bar bushes,
But some peps have said dont bother with the trailing arm bushes..
Has anybody changed these before? Is it worth doing?
With the arms off they seem quite loose and worn so may decide to change them anyway.
Is it best to stick to ford jobbies or use poly's instead?
Cheers Dean.
#2
if you have the time and access its well worth replaceing them with polybushes,it tightens up the rear end nicely and seeing as you are doing the beam it would be a shame not to do the trailing arms as well.
the poly bushes in the trailing arms are simple to install but to remove the standard ford ones can be an ordeal,for a start you will need to press the old ones out and they can be very tight so if you know someone with a hydraulic press all the better.
the poly bushes in the trailing arms are simple to install but to remove the standard ford ones can be an ordeal,for a start you will need to press the old ones out and they can be very tight so if you know someone with a hydraulic press all the better.
Trending Topics
#8
Ive now been told that the trailing arm buses are a type of bearing....
And cost Ł50 each from Ford
Anybody know what the rear kit will cost me in poly.Best place to buy?
I dont want to use poly on the beam as I have been told this causes the car to
stear from the rear
And cost Ł50 each from Ford
Anybody know what the rear kit will cost me in poly.Best place to buy?
I dont want to use poly on the beam as I have been told this causes the car to
stear from the rear
#9
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,519
Likes: 1
From: Macclesfield - you'll never leave....!
they are a metelite bush type thing from ford, they are a metal sleeve that is pressed into the rubber and DO wear and go perrished with age.
the new polybushes do the same job and Dont perish with age. if u are gonna do the job - at least do it properly...
the new polybushes do the same job and Dont perish with age. if u are gonna do the job - at least do it properly...
#10
Be nice to hear from people who have replaced ALL the bushes on the rear and see what they have to say about it???
anyone with a 3 door that can give me some helpfull advice would be great
anyone with a 3 door that can give me some helpfull advice would be great
#11
do not replace the trailing arm bushes with poly as stated above , the trailing arm bushes are a Spherical bearing which are far superior to the poly bushes. By all means change the rest to poly as this a very good upgrade for old worn rubber bushes but get the genuine bushes for the trailing arms.
HTH
HTH
#13
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,519
Likes: 1
From: Macclesfield - you'll never leave....!
i have done them all, and i can honestly say it is much tigher at the back end now - like hoofing off a round about, you dont get the sharp snap as the rear beam comes over the new camber of the road and makes the car lurch the otherway, it made it much more 'grown up' and composed in this respect.
the PU bushes still do offer flex in the planes like the ford ones do - they are not like the old nylon ones which offered little or no flex other than in the plane they were rotating about.
the PU bushes still do offer flex in the planes like the ford ones do - they are not like the old nylon ones which offered little or no flex other than in the plane they were rotating about.
#14
my saf is in the garage now getting a full rear set of powerflex bushes.
spoke to the guy whos is doing it tonight and he said it was totall nightmare gettin the old ones out...burning toches involved it think!
spoke to the guy whos is doing it tonight and he said it was totall nightmare gettin the old ones out...burning toches involved it think!
#16
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,519
Likes: 1
From: Macclesfield - you'll never leave....!
when u drop the beam, the 'usual' first thing that happens is that the captive nuts in the chassis section that hold the big dohnuts snap and turn so you cant gent eh 2 long bolts out. u usually have to cut away the slot as its too thin to geta spanner into . when u refit them ,weld a bar across the flats of the new nuts and whack plenty of copper slip around them. you will have to weld the section back up that you cut out aswell to give it its full strength back - IIRC, you have to use bolts though from the otherway, ie, pointing down instead of up as from factory.
the trailing arm bushes (one the beam is off) can either be pressed out (again IIRC mine took about 30 tonnes of pressure on a hydrulic prss to shift them, the otherway is to get the end of the arm hot with the 'blue saw' and use a void bush puller, i don tlike this way as much as it may weaken the metal with the heat, but you can get away with not having to disconnect all the cables and half shafts.
the trailing arm bushes (one the beam is off) can either be pressed out (again IIRC mine took about 30 tonnes of pressure on a hydrulic prss to shift them, the otherway is to get the end of the arm hot with the 'blue saw' and use a void bush puller, i don tlike this way as much as it may weaken the metal with the heat, but you can get away with not having to disconnect all the cables and half shafts.
#17
Originally Posted by Dave Henshall
when u drop the beam, the 'usual' first thing that happens is that the captive nuts in the chassis section that hold the big dohnuts snap and turn so you cant gent eh 2 long bolts out. u usually have to cut away the slot as its too thin to geta spanner into . when u refit them ,weld a bar across the flats of the new nuts and whack plenty of copper slip around them. you will have to weld the section back up that you cut out aswell to give it its full strength back - IIRC, you have to use bolts though from the otherway, ie, pointing down instead of up as from factory.
the trailing arm bushes (one the beam is off) can either be pressed out (again IIRC mine took about 30 tonnes of pressure on a hydrulic prss to shift them, the otherway is to get the end of the arm hot with the 'blue saw' and use a void bush puller, i don tlike this way as much as it may weaken the metal with the heat, but you can get away with not having to disconnect all the cables and half shafts.
the trailing arm bushes (one the beam is off) can either be pressed out (again IIRC mine took about 30 tonnes of pressure on a hydrulic prss to shift them, the otherway is to get the end of the arm hot with the 'blue saw' and use a void bush puller, i don tlike this way as much as it may weaken the metal with the heat, but you can get away with not having to disconnect all the cables and half shafts.
Mine is not that bad though ie all captive nut's still intact..touch wood
also I have the whole rear end striped, Doing a bit of resto work...
I'm not a bufty though..
#19
Originally Posted by moonstone mike
HOW DID YOU GET ON DEAN ????????????????
I will put a post up with pics in the Resto section soon...
#24
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,519
Likes: 1
From: Macclesfield - you'll never leave....!
the ford ones are definately not spherical, thay do allow movement through 2 planes though, but this is just by virtue of the fact that they are made from rubber, the same applies with the PU ones just that they are stiffer and dont degrade.
#25
Thats what i've always been told, maybe i've been misinformed but that always the way with stuff like this, one person will tell you one thing then you hear something else from a different person which totally contradicts it The only way is to try them both yourself and see which you prefer
#26
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,519
Likes: 1
From: Macclesfield - you'll never leave....!
have u actually seen the ford ones (new and old when removed) they are the same as teh PU ones but made out of rubber, the ones on my saph were totally knackers, you could wiggle the metal insert about in them like a turd up a shirt sleeve, if you spreyed teh PU ones black, they would look no differnetn than the ford ones other than the ford ones are encased in a metal sleeve, its this that has to be pressed out. the PU one sare a nice fit without the need for teh sleeve.
#27
Ive been listening to lots of views on these bushes and I had a look at mine and they too ""wiggle around like a turd in a shirt sleeve""
Someone recently told me that the ford one are a type of bearing??
After hearing all this I think that I will go for the poly ones, it just makes more sense to me..
Anyway what about the rear beam mounts are the poly's any good for these?
Someone recently told me that the ford one are a type of bearing??
After hearing all this I think that I will go for the poly ones, it just makes more sense to me..
Anyway what about the rear beam mounts are the poly's any good for these?
#29
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,519
Likes: 1
From: Macclesfield - you'll never leave....!
i suppose 'strictly' they are a bearing, but by description, a bearing is a device whice supports and allows free movement within certain planes, this is what they do , so they are a bearing, but classed as a bush
the rear beam mounts hm,,, some people say that the rubber ones are better as they dont transmit as much nois eintot the cabin as PU ones, i had rubber ones on my saph and ive goe for pu ones on my esocs, and to be honest as far as i can tell, there is no differnece, maybe if it were a stripped out track car, but with sound cladding and carpets and seats etc, it is all well insulated in there anyway
the rear beam mounts hm,,, some people say that the rubber ones are better as they dont transmit as much nois eintot the cabin as PU ones, i had rubber ones on my saph and ive goe for pu ones on my esocs, and to be honest as far as i can tell, there is no differnece, maybe if it were a stripped out track car, but with sound cladding and carpets and seats etc, it is all well insulated in there anyway
#30
Now I just dont know what to do... I dont think there will ever be an end to this dibate..
Mybe I will stick to the ford jobbies at least I know they work as they are on the car now..
It's tempting to go for the poly's from the cost alone,,The ford one's are Ł50 each
and I can get powerflex for about Ł90 full set..
with regards to the beam mounts I was told that the big turbo ecos used Grp N mounts as standard and that these are alot better than the standard saff jobbies But when I checked at my local dealer he's saying there no different,
could these be because they have been supercided(spell)???
Mybe I will stick to the ford jobbies at least I know they work as they are on the car now..
It's tempting to go for the poly's from the cost alone,,The ford one's are Ł50 each
and I can get powerflex for about Ł90 full set..
with regards to the beam mounts I was told that the big turbo ecos used Grp N mounts as standard and that these are alot better than the standard saff jobbies But when I checked at my local dealer he's saying there no different,
could these be because they have been supercided(spell)???
#31
Originally Posted by Dean Saff
with regards to the beam mounts I was told that the big turbo ecos used Grp N mounts as standard and that these are alot better than the standard saff jobbies But when I checked at my local dealer he's saying there no different,
could these be because they have been supercided(spell)???
could these be because they have been supercided(spell)???
ON my Microcat Escos ones heve different number. I got new ones but they aren't stiff enough for me - I'm going powerflex in few days. Can tell you what difference it makes if you are not in a hurry.
#32
I fitted the full deflex kit on my saff and it transformed the car , i did keep killing the top mounts though......spoke to chris 'cossymad' and he sorted me out with a set of powerflex top mounts and have never looked back (sideways a few times, but never back )
Pugo
Pugo
#33
Originally Posted by Azrael
Originally Posted by Dean Saff
with regards to the beam mounts I was told that the big turbo ecos used Grp N mounts as standard and that these are alot better than the standard saff jobbies But when I checked at my local dealer he's saying there no different,
could these be because they have been supercided(spell)???
could these be because they have been supercided(spell)???
ON my Microcat Escos ones heve different number. I got new ones but they aren't stiff enough for me - I'm going powerflex in few days. Can tell you what difference it makes if you are not in a hurry.
#38
Originally Posted by rapidcossie
put loads of copper slip grease on and still doin it!
Not enough. I had the same problem. Took taking it apart twice to solve but now it's all right. Only harder then powerflex bushes I have at TCA/rollbar connection squick a little when really hot whether. But they are rally items form some rally company.
#39
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 4,047
Likes: 0
From: Waterlooville....near Portsmouth
Originally Posted by pugo
I fitted the full deflex kit on my saff and it transformed the car , i did keep killing the top mounts though......spoke to chris 'cossymad' and he sorted me out with a set of powerflex top mounts and have never looked back (sideways a few times, but never back )
Pugo
Pugo
CHeers
#40
Originally Posted by lamb chops
So how much are the top mounts and where do they mount?