Hi, I just drove my Ford C-Max 2004 for 2 minutes before I received a "Transmission Malfunction" message on the display along with the orange engine symbol, I drove the car home and plugged in my ELM 327 and got the following error codes:

P0701 = Transmission Control System Range/Performance
P0730 = Incorrect Gear Ratio
P138B = Glow plug control module system voltage
P1632 = Smart Alternator Faults Sensor / Circuit
P0620 = Generator Control Circuit Malfunction
U0101 = Lost Communication with TCM


Can anyone elaborate on these and if possible how to fix them?

THANKS IN ADVANCE
DIZZY

 

Hi,

Looking at the "shopping list" of codes I'd start by checking battery voltages on and off charge as a low or high voltage can cause transmission defaults as well as the other codes listed.

I'm suspecing a dead alternator at this stage, If alternator seems well, check all main connections , clear codes and drive it to see what if any codes come back.

HTH Dave

 

In the last 6 months I have had a new alternator and a new battery, I've checked the wiring on the alternator and it seems fine. I'm thinking maybe the codes where not cleared when the alternator broke and then the battery.

The car got to a state where I was unable to move it, in either reverse or drive, I was lucky to get it home.


I phoned AA to see how much it would cost to move the car to Ford cause I didn't have home cover, AA said I could buy home cover and then they would try fix it, and if not move it to a garage. AA man reckons it's not the battery, alternator or gearbox. he thinks its either firmware, Fluid ,Clutch, Tiptronic related. The car is now at Ford who ain't going to look at it till next Thursday.

 

Ah, yes so if the codes weren't cleared the fitter only did half the job lol....

What I would do then is clear all the codes and drive it again, seeing what codes re appear.

Just considering the transmission related codes first then, I would change the tranny range switch, known to give problems, the other 2 may well go away then

If it's in Fords, I'd say your gonna get well charged for what could be a simple fix. Make sure they are aware you have old codes, and that they clear them and get the fault to re appear b4 acting on any codes present, otherwise they could well start by changing the alternator again

There is a lesson here... Most garages these days don't do proper diagnosis, they just change items related to fault codes,
I recently bought a mint Ford Explorer North Face, had been to 3 dealers, then a transmission shop, had loads of codes....
First it had 2 new Lambdas, then Plugs and Leads, then a rebuilt Auto Box, then an Exhaust System, still wouldn't run right.
Went to an Engine "specialist" who diagnosed dud ECU....This is the point where the guy gave the last garage the log book and said "keep it", whereupon I bought it for £500. It still had all the same fault codes re appearing, so I went through it systematically without spending a penny (took about 2 hrs), and found a blown fuse labelled "exhaust fuse", does the Lambdas but also provides reference voltages to the ECU. Changed the fuse (10p) and the car has been right as ninepence for several thousand miles now...So all it needed in the beginning was 2 new Lambdas and a fuse LOL.

HTH Dave