help plz somebody
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help plz somebody
hi guys, im confused so need some advice again. i'm ready for bookin my FRST in for a rollin rd/set up, so just for added peace of mind i had her diagnosed this morning for any faults and she read 3 faults. 2 were ecu related but wayne @ the garage said dont worry bout these coz its just his machine picking up my chip. if he tested again with chip out he said the faults would go so im happy there but hears y im confused. 3rd fault was wastegate celonoid faulty/vacuum (amal valve). im running a bleed valve(not my choice) so there is no amal valve. he said thats y its reading faulty coz my connectors r still there for amal but there not connected to ote. few wks back, we took bleed valve off n fitted a S2 amal valve but that lost voltage somewear from connection to actual valve so it didnt work. we fitted the bleed valve back on. now, waynes sayin it wouldnt work and it would of lost voltage coz i need the PROPER FRST amal, not a ERST 1. is he right? also i found a bloke whos breakin a FRST so i asked him for the amal valve. HE's sayin i need a S2 amal if im runninT3 ( i am ) or the FRST if im T2. so who's right??? or do i just stick with the bleed valve coz ive no idea now which 1 i need. ive wasted enough money now so i just want her right
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#4
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The FRST never had amal valve, rather a two port valve still electronic though. The only reason you should need to change is if the standard one can't handle the higher boost from the T3, the ERST came standard with one and that's T3 so may make sense.
Martin
Martin
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thanks martin. what wayne was sayin tho is that i was losin voltage from connector on top of the wing to S2amal on the gearbox coz the celonoids were different. i think is was summat like 12/13volts at connector but by time power got to the S2 amal it was down to 3/4 volts. he said its coz its not the right celonoid? does that make any sense to you? am bout ready fa stickin my frst on ebay, had enough now.
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Both are defo 12V and you have that at connector which is correct, I don't see how you have 3/4V was this measured from the valve itself or at ECU end?
Measure voltage across the connector with ignition on should be +12V if lower here indicates earth fault which is switched by ecu (Could just be poor wiring) if this is good would suspect a faulty valve.
I'm not sure on your car but can't see any reason why a amal can't be used unless different electronics/resistance.
Martin
Measure voltage across the connector with ignition on should be +12V if lower here indicates earth fault which is switched by ecu (Could just be poor wiring) if this is good would suspect a faulty valve.
I'm not sure on your car but can't see any reason why a amal can't be used unless different electronics/resistance.
Martin
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Both are defo 12V and you have that at connector which is correct, I don't see how you have 3/4V was this measured from the valve itself or at ECU end?
Measure voltage across the connector with ignition on should be +12V if lower here indicates earth fault which is switched by ecu (Could just be poor wiring) if this is good would suspect a faulty valve.
I'm not sure on your car but can't see any reason why a amal can't be used unless different electronics/resistance.
Martin
Measure voltage across the connector with ignition on should be +12V if lower here indicates earth fault which is switched by ecu (Could just be poor wiring) if this is good would suspect a faulty valve.
I'm not sure on your car but can't see any reason why a amal can't be used unless different electronics/resistance.
Martin
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hi m8, i cant remember but im sure she clicked but not like she shud. it was more repetitive n fast like a sowin machine type noise lol but wen we fed a straight live to it, it only clicked once wen turned ignition on. could b earthing problem like u say or faulty amal but the diagnostic place said i need the right fiesta 1 coz the s2 wont work properly. soz if i sound thick but am not a expert on these motors. only eva had non turbo e30's n seriously thinkin goin back to them.
#10
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If it clicks rapidly that is normally indication of faulty valve, putting another live replicates it being connected to the connector as it is constant live and you have 12V at the power connector, switched earth via ECU. Not sure on EEC but on the likes of Escos the ecu can rapidly pulse valve as well it it detects problem but not sure on your car. If his saying you can't use valve assuming his reputable specialist then must be right, I would ask someone who has FRST as I am sure other people do this.
Martin
Martin
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