timming marks on cam pullies
Before fitting a new cam belt and tensioner i need to find the timming marks on TDC the no marks visible on the front of the pully at the rear threr is a virticale line is this it lined up with the centre of the rocker casked? still looking
99 mondy, is set by inserting a locking bar or 5mm rod across the machined slots in the rear of the camshafts, these are offset so only go one way, can't go wrong, obviously rocker cover needs to come off, get a new gasket for this, there are two types of gasket on this year, both cheap so buy both, fords system that tells you what one it takes is WRONG, found this a few times, just get both types and take back the wrong one afterwards.
Top end sorted, now look around the base of the sump around 8" from grearbox end you will see a 10mm bolt, that looks totally out of place, remove this, then insert the correct locking pin in the hole, this contacts a flattened section of the crank web, and is a precise length to ensure the crank is where it needs to be(tdc).
Best way to do it is loosen the crank pulley, just slightly so it is finger tight, then rotate the engine clockwise looking at the crank pulley until the cams are in line, and the locking bar/rod can be fitted,(drill bits the right size could also be used), with the bar taken out again rotate anti clockwise about 1/8 turn, then insert the pin in the bolt hole where the 10mm bolt went, now when you turn the crank clockwise again you will hear a distinct PING as it butts up against the pin and that is tdc, you may need a slight nudge on the locking bar to get it in, that's ok, anything more than a slight nudge, then the cam pullies will have to be loosened, again only enough to allow the pulleys to rotate free of the cam, so when belt is tensioned simply torque up the cams bolts, can leave the locking bar in place whilst this is done, then remove bar and pin job done, turn over a few times by hand to check all is well, two turns of crank pulley is plenty.
tabetha
Top end sorted, now look around the base of the sump around 8" from grearbox end you will see a 10mm bolt, that looks totally out of place, remove this, then insert the correct locking pin in the hole, this contacts a flattened section of the crank web, and is a precise length to ensure the crank is where it needs to be(tdc).
Best way to do it is loosen the crank pulley, just slightly so it is finger tight, then rotate the engine clockwise looking at the crank pulley until the cams are in line, and the locking bar/rod can be fitted,(drill bits the right size could also be used), with the bar taken out again rotate anti clockwise about 1/8 turn, then insert the pin in the bolt hole where the 10mm bolt went, now when you turn the crank clockwise again you will hear a distinct PING as it butts up against the pin and that is tdc, you may need a slight nudge on the locking bar to get it in, that's ok, anything more than a slight nudge, then the cam pullies will have to be loosened, again only enough to allow the pulleys to rotate free of the cam, so when belt is tensioned simply torque up the cams bolts, can leave the locking bar in place whilst this is done, then remove bar and pin job done, turn over a few times by hand to check all is well, two turns of crank pulley is plenty.
tabetha
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