I have just had a AP clutch fitted (not paddle) and the flywheel skimmed and new clutch cable fitted to my sapphire.

will it need to bed in as at the mo there is no massive pull as before, it seem to gradualy pull.

 

It might be a bit on/offish to start with but will soon settle down, did you have flywheel lightened at same time ?
tabetha

 

yeah, thank's for the reply tabetha

 

Well had a second clutch fitted yesterday and no supprise its slipping again .the first new clutch still looks brand new !!!!!

 

Hi mate, just a few idea's. Not telling you how to suck egg's or anything.
So is the adjustment on your pedal maybe buggered?
Was the new cable tight to get on?
When you let off the clutch is there maybe not enough slack to allow the clutch to fully engage?
Think you might have been able to smell it though if was slipping like that.

 

mate on this i need to be shown how to suck egg's
the ratchet on peddel is to the very last tooth so the peddel is slightly higher than the brake.cable easy easy to put on .

 

Something seriously wrong if slipping, was the diaphragm replaced at same time ?, ie is it a bit ropey/weak, after you've fitted the cable reset the tensioner by pulling pedal up and pushing quadrant forward an inch or so, then a few presses, if there is plenty of slack, and it still slips, something wrong inside bellhousing.
tabetha

 

I have pushed ratchet forward and it ratchets right to the last point of the ratchet.It slip's like my old clutch did that i replaced.what could be wrong with bell housing.

 

LOL Okay, cool.

I can't see in your answers whether you replied to Tabetha or not.(Not.)
Did you have your fly wheel lightened as well as a surface skim?
I'm thinking,
If the cable is not holding tension on the clutch/clutch arm then maybe your new friction face on your flywheel isn't flat??

 

Just trying to suss the history a bit here Damian.

Prior to having the surface skim, the AP clutch fitted and a new cable, your drive was normal? The clutch operated properly?
Or did you have to replace the clutch due to slipping, and had the flywheel skim and new cable whilst you were at it?

Did you get a 3 piece clutch kit, or just a friction plate?

Justin

 

the old clutch was slipping ,so had new 3 piece clutch,new cable and flywheel faced.And two clutchs later slipping the same as the old one..

 

So long as there is some slack on the cable ands that it's not bound tight by overadjusting then there's something seriously wrong, either the friction plate is not being clamped hard enough between the flywheel and the clutch diaphragm, or there is oil on it, but would have to be literally swimming in it.
I can't see anyway that the arm could be binding, and you'd have noticed if it was.
Who's doing the work, as the principle is very simple friction plate turns gearbox shaft, and is pressed/squashed between the two surfaces, either someting mechanical is stopping that pressure being applied fully, or a dimension is wrong somewhere.
When the flywheel was refaced, they did the WHOLE surface and not just lathed the friction surface, that is to say they took out the dowels that locate the diaphragm and skimmed across the whole lot ?
tabetha

 

No oil as the first new clutch is like new still. yes they took out the dowels ect when it was skimmed.
The clutch place said they will send me a paddle clutch out. do you think this will help?? as they said they do not know what torque is being place on the clutch.

 

althou a new clutch shouldnt really slip as such running more than standard power what sort of power u actually putting thru it just out of interest?!

Mines being a bit of a pig too, cable snapped on me the other day and had 2 fit a 4x4 cable as was only 1 the place had, its a bit longer but shouldnt make a different to the operation of the clutch. The biting point is now near enough floor level and seems not to have much tension in the cable so thinking mu ratchet might be a bit buggered so gonna have a look at it at the weekend!!

 

T3,803's, 26psi. mate

 

ah right cool, should be fine with that sorta power on an ap organic clutch, hummmm strange one.....

 

Gotta agree here.
I'm not sure which side of the car you need to be under(mines a 4x4, so passenger side) but get under and get hold of the cable end and see what it feels like on the clutch arm.
It'll be either
1/ Fairly movable, you can pull it enough so that it's not quite on the arm, so no tension on the cable at rest. (It's an involved investigation coming up.) Or
2/ it's effing welded hard up against the clutch arm and you can't pull it at all away. (Cable error/clutch ratchett error/ cable routing error)

Let us know how it is.
Cheers mate

 

Well, yeah, it might help. Only if the problem is that your engine is providing too much torque through the disc you already got(twice).
I'd think that although it might well have a better bite to it, it isn't going to solve this. I am happy to be shown wrong though. What a ballache.

 

clutch cable has not a lot of tension, and the fork arm is loose. the paddle should be coming with a uprated pressure plate.

 

Hi .. these 2 options are if there is a problem , right ? ... But if all was ok...how should it be then ?

As I also seems to have similar problems I'm very interested in this too!

 

just a thought would it be that the its not releasing quick enough, i.e bearing getting stuck, arm stiff, kinked cable?

 

where did you get the clutch from?? if its techni clutch give up!!

 

A boggo std ford one will be fine at this level, the std clamp pressure is more than up to it.
It's very simple, the clamping pressure is not being applied fully by the diaphragm for some reason, ie something is holding pressure on the arm, such as a tight cable, or something else.
tabetha

 

i had problems no end with clutches in mine..Damian knows the history i have had.
i am gonna write what happened to mine so maybe someone might pick up on something from my story that could be done/missed out on Damains

first of all mine also, like Damians is T3, 803s, 3bar, 26psi etc etc. but mines a 4x4. The clutch that was in my car when i got it started to slip so i had to change it. i bought a motorcraft one, bought a new cable, fork arm, trumpet and had my flywheel skimmed. That slipped instantly. I ran it for a few months but it never got any better. So i sent it back to ford on a faulty unit but they wouldnt take it back as the car aint standard. So believing that clutch was nack'd i bought another motorcraft one, low and behold....slip! so eventually, i bought a AP fast road organic clutch, same as what Damian has bought. When the gearbox was out i noticed on my flywheel that as the old clutch was slipping, it had left friction on the face of it. however it had only been skimmed 500 mile previous so the AP went in. it grips like hell and has not slipped once.

I hope there is somethin simple on it Day!!