Help Please!

for some reason if i have loads of electrics on the rev needle jumps about and the lights dim, so if i have lights on and fans, the rev needle sits about 2k higher than its revving, then if i press the elecy windows i can get the needle to spin right around?!

anyone have any ideas?

took this video of just clicking the ew switch...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCai1kIwBmE

I went to put my windows down today and the rev needle is now stuck below the nib it sits on when off!

1994 BT Escos by the way..

 

Anyone???

 

Odd problems like this are nearly always down to dodgy earths, so I would clean up any that you can find, even if seemingly unrelated.
Also try a new temp earth wire to engine plenum cover to see if it helps, doesn't need to be high amp stuff just general 8 amp wire will do.
tabetha

 

Tabetha! Long time no speak! Cheers for your reply, any idea where I need to look for earths? Silly question but connect the wire to the plenum cover to where? I take it plenum is the rocker cover? Or am I just that thick lol

 

Forgot to mention that I left my car for 5 days last week and the battery died? If that helps?! Also battery gauge is moving up and down with the revs now, goes right upto 16

 

unplug the alternator, it may be the diode pack on its way out.
just when alternator is disconnected, if nothing changes, it's not that.

 

ford focus electric windows not working any ideas

 

 

Good idea^^, worth a try, easy cheap fix if it's that.
The plenum cover is the bit that the throttle body is on, where all the air goes in, anywhere around here is fine.
tabetha

 

Check the obvious like fuses first, is it just the front ?, are the rears working ?
If fuse ok check for power at switch.
tabetha

 

hi mate, how do you mean just when? Does that mean I get a second or two to test the elecs when it's unplugged?

 

NO it doesn't mean that, all you need to do is pull the thin blue wire, as this will stop the field windings get excited and generating current, so long as you don't rev it high, as doing so will make it kick in.
This will do no harm to your alt at all.
tabetha

 

Guys, I unplugged the alternator as you said and the electrics loked like they do when they are on a mad one! the rev counter was about 2k higher than it was revvin, the battery gauge was at 16.. does this mean its that?
ta
john

 

I assume you unplugged it BEFORE you started it, and that the battery warning light was ON, if so and they were still playing up, it's not the alternator causing it.
tabetha

 

oops no sorry, just done it again now. turned it on first to make sure electrics were playing up, seems to be when the car gets warm so i waited for that, turned off, took off blue wire, turned ignition on and the battery warning light was not on. electrics seemed better. plugged the blue wire back in and no change to electrics.. confused now!

 

Sounds like the regulator rectifier part of the alt is suspect, a recon is about £50.
I would first make sure the inside of the blue wire connector on the alt is nice and clean.
Problems like this are classic of a breaking down alt, reg/rec, these do as said above contain diodes(one way electrical valves) used to convert ac to dc, + regulator part controls the current.
I've had one expire on the rollers before now when it got too hot, the solder melted!!
tabetha

 

probably best getting a full new alternator then?! I suspected it a while back when the battery light came on when braking.. thanks for your help Tab.. dont suppose you know where I could get one from do you?

 

I don't know up your way, but if I needed one due to parts cost etc I'd get a recon, as only save around £10-£15 diy so let someone else have the hassle and risk.
I would phone around a lot, they are nothing special alternator wise, mine is off me old mk4 escort diesel, but does the job.
There will be loads of others car that take the same alt, do a bit of research so you don't have to mention the C word that adds 50% cost to everything!!
tabetha