youngben

iTrader: (2)

how tight should the crank be to turn once it is put in and the main caps are tight but no pistons or rods? it seems to turn then stick then turn freely again! have no flyweel on so this may exaggerate the stiffness as i havent much to grip!

cossiedan1983

there shouldnt be any tight spots really, try loosen caps off and re tighten but turn crank after every cap has been tightened and dont forget to lubricate caps as they go on

youngben

iTrader: (2)

yeh everything was lubricated! it was fine until i tightened them up! will have a closer look tomorrow! didnt think it seemed right! thanks for the tip mate! its loose if you keep moving it and spins fine! its when you stop and try and move it again

Toe Knee

iTrader: (2)

As said should spin freely mate without the flywheel, mine turns by hand on the stand just using the crank pulley and thats with the pistons in and connected too!!

Are they new shells?! and are they deff the right size?! only other thing it could be obviously is damaged journal or to the crank...

youngben

iTrader: (2)

just had a play and its running sweet now spins freely



thanks for your help all! thought it wasn't right

Red16

Some of those main bearing caps are on the wrong way round... all the arrows should point the same direction, usually away from the flywheel, also they should be in numerical order too eg 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

Chip

iTrader: (3)

If it was tight in spots and is now loose then I would take it out again and inspect the bearings, there may be a sharp spot on the crank on one of the journals that has scored a bearing.
After all, something has changed!

youngben

iTrader: (2)

thats exactly as they came off mate and how they were put on at the factory

heres a pic of when i stripped the engine



and now

Red16

Just because thats the way they were removed doesnt necessarily mean thats the correct way.

coswurv

iTrader: (8)

yeah the far right one is facing the wrong way, well going by the arrows it is !

JonnyBravo

I very much doubt they were meant to be fitted all the same way bar one by the factory.

Find yourself a picture or speak to your usual engine builder as I am sure they could clarify that for you.

youngben

iTrader: (2)

its the 1st time the engine has been apart from the factory so must have been done it differently? it is also numbered 1 2 3 4 1 will try and find more pictures! but they wont fit any other way as they have a recess to fit in anyway! it spins fine now

.Ross.

iTrader: (2)

Did you offered the shells into the cap's/block dry?

Anyhow .. If it's spinning free then "Bingo"

Big Will_

I see you're on ARP Main studs mate...

1) Did you use the moly lube as i can't see any on there and it's critical to get the correct stretch in relation to the listed torque figures.

2) Have you tried the intermediate section of the sump on there yet as i had to die grind clearance channels out of mine to clear the stud!

youngben

iTrader: (2)

no mate they have all been oiled

yes mate used the lube you can see it all over the nutts on the second pic no mate not tryed the sump on yet but i will have the same problem you did

youngben

iTrader: (2)

2 other rs engines with the main caps as stated 1 - 5 so got knows why mine has another 1 on the end instead of number 5 but it don't seem to be causing any problems with the crank movement?