Engine Rebuild - Crank
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From: In The Garage, West Mids
how tight should the crank be to turn once it is put in and the main caps are tight but no pistons or rods? it seems to turn then stick then turn freely again! have no flyweel on so this may exaggerate the stiffness as i havent much to grip!
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From: In The Garage, West Mids
yeh everything was lubricated! it was fine until i tightened them up! will have a closer look tomorrow! didnt think it seemed right! thanks for the tip mate! its loose if you keep moving it and spins fine! its when you stop and try and move it again
As said should spin freely mate without the flywheel, mine turns by hand on the stand just using the crank pulley and thats with the pistons in and connected too!!
Are they new shells?! and are they deff the right size?! only other thing it could be obviously is damaged journal or to the crank...
Are they new shells?! and are they deff the right size?! only other thing it could be obviously is damaged journal or to the crank...
Some of those main bearing caps are on the wrong way round... all the arrows should point the same direction, usually away from the flywheel, also they should be in numerical order too eg 1, 2, 3, 4, 5
If it was tight in spots and is now loose then I would take it out again and inspect the bearings, there may be a sharp spot on the crank on one of the journals that has scored a bearing.
After all, something has changed!
After all, something has changed!
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From: In The Garage, West Mids
heres a pic of when i stripped the engine

and now
Last edited by youngben; Apr 30, 2009 at 04:22 AM.
I very much doubt they were meant to be fitted all the same way bar one by the factory.
Find yourself a picture or speak to your usual engine builder as I am sure they could clarify that for you.
Find yourself a picture or speak to your usual engine builder as I am sure they could clarify that for you.
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From: In The Garage, West Mids
its the 1st time the engine has been apart from the factory so must have been done it differently? it is also numbered 1 2 3 4 1 will try and find more pictures! but they wont fit any other way as they have a recess to fit in anyway! it spins fine now
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From: In the unit, building a 450bhp Time Attack Focus!
I see you're on ARP Main studs mate...
1) Did you use the moly lube as i can't see any on there and it's critical to get the correct stretch in relation to the listed torque figures.
2) Have you tried the intermediate section of the sump on there yet as i had to die grind clearance channels out of mine to clear the stud!
1) Did you use the moly lube as i can't see any on there and it's critical to get the correct stretch in relation to the listed torque figures.
2) Have you tried the intermediate section of the sump on there yet as i had to die grind clearance channels out of mine to clear the stud!
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From: In The Garage, West Mids
I see you're on ARP Main studs mate...
1) Did you use the moly lube as i can't see any on there and it's critical to get the correct stretch in relation to the listed torque figures.
2) Have you tried the intermediate section of the sump on there yet as i had to die grind clearance channels out of mine to clear the stud!

1) Did you use the moly lube as i can't see any on there and it's critical to get the correct stretch in relation to the listed torque figures.
2) Have you tried the intermediate section of the sump on there yet as i had to die grind clearance channels out of mine to clear the stud!
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From: In The Garage, West Mids
2 other rs engines with the main caps as stated 1 - 5 so got knows why mine has another 1 on the end instead of number 5 but it don't seem to be causing any problems with the crank movement?


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