Focus timing belt issue....
Doing the timing belt on a mates 2001 Focus 1.6 as a favour - now the fcuking thing has me stumped.....No key on the bottom pulley or cam sprocket, there are held in place by torquing up the pully bolt and squeezing them on a slight taper.
The first time I attempted this I just jammed the bottom pully so it wouldn't turn and torqued up the bolt, when I tried to start the engine however I discovered the crank was turning but the bottom sprocket was slipping and the cams were not rotating....
The haynes manual once again has a stupidly vague solution to this "use a suitable lennght of treaded bar inserted into the crank and a nut to torque them up and force the sprocket onto the taper" the idea then being that you then remove the nut and treaded bar and then torque up the new pulley bolt. Thats wonderful except the treaded bar is a standard M12 size but has a finer tread than normal so no lenghts of treaded bar I have will screw into the crank
This leaves me with the option of using the old pulley bolt to do the job but if I torque it up surly when I remove it again to use the new one the tension will just come off the sprocket again?
The first time I attempted this I just jammed the bottom pully so it wouldn't turn and torqued up the bolt, when I tried to start the engine however I discovered the crank was turning but the bottom sprocket was slipping and the cams were not rotating....
The haynes manual once again has a stupidly vague solution to this "use a suitable lennght of treaded bar inserted into the crank and a nut to torque them up and force the sprocket onto the taper" the idea then being that you then remove the nut and treaded bar and then torque up the new pulley bolt. Thats wonderful except the treaded bar is a standard M12 size but has a finer tread than normal so no lenghts of treaded bar I have will screw into the crank

This leaves me with the option of using the old pulley bolt to do the job but if I torque it up surly when I remove it again to use the new one the tension will just come off the sprocket again?
Ford ETIS tells you to tighten it up against the special TDC tool , I assume you have removed the blanking plug in the block and have access to either this tool or some other crankshaft locking tool ?
I have seen these bolts come loose and it causes a horrible mess , valves and pistons making intimate contact ...... not fun for anybody
I have seen these bolts come loose and it causes a horrible mess , valves and pistons making intimate contact ...... not fun for anybody
Ford ETIS tells you to tighten it up against the special TDC tool , I assume you have removed the blanking plug in the block and have access to either this tool or some other crankshaft locking tool ?
I have seen these bolts come loose and it causes a horrible mess , valves and pistons making intimate contact ...... not fun for anybody
I have seen these bolts come loose and it causes a horrible mess , valves and pistons making intimate contact ...... not fun for anybody
I agree with both of you , woodruff keys are good but this was Fords way of getting around production tolerances i would use the tdc pin to set initially, but then as long as the cams are tightened with crank at TDC then it does not matter , so remove s/motor and tighten fully then set back against the pin and then tighten cam pulleys , if you were somewhere local would lend you the flywheel locking tools as I seemed to have gained some rather than using the trusty screw driver in the ring gear .
I agree with both of you , woodruff keys are good but this was Fords way of getting around production tolerances i would use the tdc pin to set initially, but then as long as the cams are tightened with crank at TDC then it does not matter , so remove s/motor and tighten fully then set back against the pin and then tighten cam pulleys , if you were somewhere local would lend you the flywheel locking tools as I seemed to have gained some rather than using the trusty screw driver in the ring gear . 
When I'm putting the crank pulley back on should the outer edge of the pulley be flush the end of the crankshaft as in diagram A or should the pulley protrude several mm as in diagram B..?
Last edited by cosrep; Apr 11, 2009 at 04:03 PM.
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Pain in the arse! Sometimes they come of very easy - most of them time they don't! bit of tapping with a hammer can help but becareful not to smash the pulley!
Could i put it in gear then get some one to put there foot on the brake,while i undo the crank puley nut.I take it it,s anti clockwise release?
You then need to turn the engine over for the shortest time possible - literally half a second or even less if you can manage.....this will lossen the pulley bolt.
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