Toad Alarm gone mad :-( thanks to the missus
22-12-2008, 08:00 PM
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Toad Alarm gone mad :-( thanks to the missus
Hi All
OK. Firstly this is my fault for letting a woman near my car !!!......
the missus was going to drive my car (escort gti) home, and wise as she is, decided to try and get into the car with the key, with the alarm still armed, rather than using the alarms keyfob. So... the alarm went off, and would not disarm
Normally it would disarm, but never tried getting into the car with the key before when its armed, so that seems to have angered it somewhat
Now what happens is i can arm the alarm as normal, but if i disarm it, the green dash light is steady like normal then flashes which it doesnt normally do. If i open the door, the alarm goes off for about 30 seconds. I can still start and drive the car, the siren just wont shut up. Once the siren is going, the disarm button on the keyfob does nothing :s ??
any ideas please?
OK. Firstly this is my fault for letting a woman near my car !!!......
the missus was going to drive my car (escort gti) home, and wise as she is, decided to try and get into the car with the key, with the alarm still armed, rather than using the alarms keyfob. So... the alarm went off, and would not disarm
Normally it would disarm, but never tried getting into the car with the key before when its armed, so that seems to have angered it somewhat
Now what happens is i can arm the alarm as normal, but if i disarm it, the green dash light is steady like normal then flashes which it doesnt normally do. If i open the door, the alarm goes off for about 30 seconds. I can still start and drive the car, the siren just wont shut up. Once the siren is going, the disarm button on the keyfob does nothing :s ??
any ideas please?
23-12-2008, 01:31 AM
#2
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It might not have been set with correct polarity when installed.
When they are first powered up, all the doors, boot, bonnet have to be shut so it senses the correct "normal" closed or open contact state of the car, if someone has done this with a door etc open it will sense this as say a shut door with a normally closed contact, so it thinks the car is still being tampered with.
To reset simply lift bonnet, close all doors, disconnect bonnet switch, then disconnect battery live(note any codes for stereo etc first) leave a minute reconnect battery, press LOCK button once only, job done.
This should all work perfect now.
If you unlock by door lock, the alarm will sound as it has not been disarmed, then a press of the UNLOCK/DISARM will silence it with 3 chirps/flashes to show it has been triggered, insert key and all will be normal apart from led will flash the ZONE that has been triggered, ie door boot bonnet vibration etc.
tabetha
When they are first powered up, all the doors, boot, bonnet have to be shut so it senses the correct "normal" closed or open contact state of the car, if someone has done this with a door etc open it will sense this as say a shut door with a normally closed contact, so it thinks the car is still being tampered with.
To reset simply lift bonnet, close all doors, disconnect bonnet switch, then disconnect battery live(note any codes for stereo etc first) leave a minute reconnect battery, press LOCK button once only, job done.
This should all work perfect now.
If you unlock by door lock, the alarm will sound as it has not been disarmed, then a press of the UNLOCK/DISARM will silence it with 3 chirps/flashes to show it has been triggered, insert key and all will be normal apart from led will flash the ZONE that has been triggered, ie door boot bonnet vibration etc.
tabetha
23-12-2008, 06:22 PM
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NO probs, glad to help, it obviously wasn't done correctly in the first place when installed.
If your beep is not working/never has this can be turned on, if it is ai600 it has one sound volume on arm/disarm, but if ai606 it has 3 different sound levels, even the quietest is loud though, but easy enough to turn on in 5 minutes.
They were supposed to be default on, but they were actually default off, as it is against EEC law, due to noise pollution!!
tabetha
If your beep is not working/never has this can be turned on, if it is ai600 it has one sound volume on arm/disarm, but if ai606 it has 3 different sound levels, even the quietest is loud though, but easy enough to turn on in 5 minutes.
They were supposed to be default on, but they were actually default off, as it is against EEC law, due to noise pollution!!
tabetha
26-01-2010, 04:48 PM
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Hi I seem to have the same problem on by 97 escort but
A. Im not sure which alarm I have (def. toad though)
B. where do I find the bonnet switch and how do I disconnect it? I'm not much of a mechanic lol
Its strange because just came out of work this morning and it started doing this exact thing even though I just unlocked it same as normal...
Someone said it could be because my battery is low which it is a bit from the cold weather and snow lately but is that true? Would it be worth getting a new battery?
Any help would be brilliant, thank you
A. Im not sure which alarm I have (def. toad though)
B. where do I find the bonnet switch and how do I disconnect it? I'm not much of a mechanic lol
Its strange because just came out of work this morning and it started doing this exact thing even though I just unlocked it same as normal...
Someone said it could be because my battery is low which it is a bit from the cold weather and snow lately but is that true? Would it be worth getting a new battery?
Any help would be brilliant, thank you
26-01-2010, 06:00 PM
#7
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Low battery voltage can cause problems, as can a less than perfect earth, even a tiny amount of corrsion around the earth terminal can cause havoc.
To find the bonnet switch look along the slam panel, the panel you can see where the catch off the bonnet goes into when you shut the bonnet.
Along here you should see a switch which will look like a little plunger sticking up, that will be sprung loaded so when pressed it pops back up again, it will have a single grey wire going to it, unless some numpty has used it with the original ford switch fitted, most of these work the opposite way to the toad supplied plunger ones and so create havoc, but if been ok up to now won't be that.
How old is the system, what does the alarm fob look like, how many buttons, is it a single colour led ?
What precisely is the alarm doing/not doing ?
tabetha
To find the bonnet switch look along the slam panel, the panel you can see where the catch off the bonnet goes into when you shut the bonnet.
Along here you should see a switch which will look like a little plunger sticking up, that will be sprung loaded so when pressed it pops back up again, it will have a single grey wire going to it, unless some numpty has used it with the original ford switch fitted, most of these work the opposite way to the toad supplied plunger ones and so create havoc, but if been ok up to now won't be that.
How old is the system, what does the alarm fob look like, how many buttons, is it a single colour led ?
What precisely is the alarm doing/not doing ?
tabetha
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26-01-2010, 06:50 PM
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Low battery voltage can cause problems, as can a less than perfect earth, even a tiny amount of corrsion around the earth terminal can cause havoc.
To find the bonnet switch look along the slam panel, the panel you can see where the catch off the bonnet goes into when you shut the bonnet.
Along here you should see a switch which will look like a little plunger sticking up, that will be sprung loaded so when pressed it pops back up again, it will have a single grey wire going to it, unless some numpty has used it with the original ford switch fitted, most of these work the opposite way to the toad supplied plunger ones and so create havoc, but if been ok up to now won't be that.
How old is the system, what does the alarm fob look like, how many buttons, is it a single colour led ?
What precisely is the alarm doing/not doing ?
tabetha
To find the bonnet switch look along the slam panel, the panel you can see where the catch off the bonnet goes into when you shut the bonnet.
Along here you should see a switch which will look like a little plunger sticking up, that will be sprung loaded so when pressed it pops back up again, it will have a single grey wire going to it, unless some numpty has used it with the original ford switch fitted, most of these work the opposite way to the toad supplied plunger ones and so create havoc, but if been ok up to now won't be that.
How old is the system, what does the alarm fob look like, how many buttons, is it a single colour led ?
What precisely is the alarm doing/not doing ?
tabetha
The system came with the car which I've had since last may so I have no idea how old it is but the fob has two buttons: one green and one black button and the led in the car is only red which flashes.
Everythings been working fine up until this morning. The only things thats happened to the car recently is that I put in some speakers yesterday using the existing speaker connections, but also when I drove to work last night when I let the handbrake off and tried to pull away i heard a quite loud bang from the back of the car as if the brake was stuck or as if something jarred or snapped, if that makes sense. I dont know if thats relevant but this alarm thing is pissing me and my neighbours off.
I pressed the green button on the fob and it beeped twice and unlocked the central locking as usual and as soon as I opened the door the alarm went off both sound and lights. The alarm goes off for about 30secs and cuts out but lights continue to flash so in order to get home I had to take out the hazards fuse. Car still started up fine but everytime I open a door or the boot it goes off and wont even stop when I use the fob although the car still locks up / unlocks.
The siren (or noise) is located in leftside of the boot behind some plastic trim that houses the speaker and supports the parcel shelf.
I'm going to check the bonnet switch and try your method posted above and if that fails what do you think?
27-01-2010, 06:46 PM
#10
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Your alarm will have a reporting function, when the key is first put in the igntion and turned on after thre alarm has sounded, it will flash a certain amount of times corresponding to the trigger source.
Did you disconenct the battery when doing the speakers ?, sometimes esp when a bit old they can lose the nicd(back up battery) power very quickly as nicd degrade over time, then leak and bugger up the whole circuit board!!!
How many flashes does it do ?, I'm assuming 3 flashes from a door trigger and 4 flashes if boot or bonnet is opened ?.
If you did disconnect the battery, AND had a door or boot bonnet open when reconnecting it can grab the wrong switch polarity, which can cause all sorts of odd issues.
I would take off the earth at the battery and clean it evenif you think it is nice and clean.
Do you have the 4 pin digit code, for the alarm, as you can always disarm it this way, then when turning off the ignition will stay disarmed.
Really need to know what numbers/letters are on the alarm unit.
It may due to age have lost some base settings programmed when new, if the NICD pack is virtually dead, even when always connected to the battery the battery pack needs to be 100%, new ones cam be mad eup for less than £15, and dead easy to put back in.
I just can't uderstand why the siren is mounted in the boot.
Does the "siren" have a major loom going to it, or just a few thin wires, if a major loom this will be secured by a clamp type bit that goes either side of the loom end and the loom end will be about 3" rectangular connector block with two rows of terminals.
Always worth trying a polarity reset by shutting all doors, boot, hold down the bonnet switch and whilst held down reconnect the earth lead.
It doesn't sound good though, it may be past it.
If you are the original purchaser with the system on the original car with the receipt TOAD wil sort it for you FOC.
I can only assume it is a Alarm(siren) only with no immobiliser.
If this fails just bite the bullet and get a Toad A101, a excellent system.
tabetha
Did you disconenct the battery when doing the speakers ?, sometimes esp when a bit old they can lose the nicd(back up battery) power very quickly as nicd degrade over time, then leak and bugger up the whole circuit board!!!
How many flashes does it do ?, I'm assuming 3 flashes from a door trigger and 4 flashes if boot or bonnet is opened ?.
If you did disconnect the battery, AND had a door or boot bonnet open when reconnecting it can grab the wrong switch polarity, which can cause all sorts of odd issues.
I would take off the earth at the battery and clean it evenif you think it is nice and clean.
Do you have the 4 pin digit code, for the alarm, as you can always disarm it this way, then when turning off the ignition will stay disarmed.
Really need to know what numbers/letters are on the alarm unit.
It may due to age have lost some base settings programmed when new, if the NICD pack is virtually dead, even when always connected to the battery the battery pack needs to be 100%, new ones cam be mad eup for less than £15, and dead easy to put back in.
I just can't uderstand why the siren is mounted in the boot.
Does the "siren" have a major loom going to it, or just a few thin wires, if a major loom this will be secured by a clamp type bit that goes either side of the loom end and the loom end will be about 3" rectangular connector block with two rows of terminals.
Always worth trying a polarity reset by shutting all doors, boot, hold down the bonnet switch and whilst held down reconnect the earth lead.
It doesn't sound good though, it may be past it.
If you are the original purchaser with the system on the original car with the receipt TOAD wil sort it for you FOC.
I can only assume it is a Alarm(siren) only with no immobiliser.
If this fails just bite the bullet and get a Toad A101, a excellent system.
tabetha
28-01-2010, 09:30 AM
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Your knowledge on Toad alarms is brilliant and thankyou for your help tabetha, I only wish my knowledge on cars in general was as good as yours - it wasn't the toad alarm at all it was the ford alarm (i guess thats why the siren was in the boot!) and I've just been messing about with the central locking which seems to be messing everything up. Afetr using the key to unlock the door it kept locking and unlocking like it was stuck but I managed to get back into the car (afetr a min or two of thinking oh crap now I cant even get INTO the bloody thing) and the alrm didn't sound but now the central locking seems to be working fine and so does the alarm... still might be temperamental but I think Ive learned something from this. Thanks again for your help, regards, Oli
29-01-2010, 12:00 PM
#12
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Ha ha ha, no probs oli!!
I can rest my keyboard finger now!!
LOck/unlock problems with fords are almost always the front door lock motor getting really jammed up, so one stops in lock pos, on ein unlock after each pulse so they keep fighting.
I've used the maplins system CL kits, at £25 for a 4 door kit, never had any problem, and they work from remote alarms etc as well.
tabetha
I can rest my keyboard finger now!!
LOck/unlock problems with fords are almost always the front door lock motor getting really jammed up, so one stops in lock pos, on ein unlock after each pulse so they keep fighting.
I've used the maplins system CL kits, at £25 for a 4 door kit, never had any problem, and they work from remote alarms etc as well.
tabetha
16-10-2010, 03:33 PM
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yes my door slave solenoid is goosed,thats why my car unlocks then locks straight away,and instead of locking in anti-hyjacking mode ,it unlocks the doors.been looking for a replacement . still.wonder if a newer fiesta or ezzy will fit.
13-01-2011, 10:08 AM
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Hi Guys
I'm having a bit of trouble with my Toad Ai600.
I had an auto electrician out to look at an ignition problem the other day which he sorted but since he left I noticed that the 'chirp' on the alarm is not sounding. It usually sounds when i arm/disarm the system and also when one of the doors was opened. It still locks up fine and the LED is still flashing like normal and going green when I unlock the car its just that the 'chirp' has gone!
The electrician said he didn't go near the alarm wiring and nothing seems to have been disturbed near the control unit or wiring so is it just a case of re-programming something??
Any help would be appreciated!
I'm having a bit of trouble with my Toad Ai600.
I had an auto electrician out to look at an ignition problem the other day which he sorted but since he left I noticed that the 'chirp' on the alarm is not sounding. It usually sounds when i arm/disarm the system and also when one of the doors was opened. It still locks up fine and the LED is still flashing like normal and going green when I unlock the car its just that the 'chirp' has gone!
The electrician said he didn't go near the alarm wiring and nothing seems to have been disturbed near the control unit or wiring so is it just a case of re-programming something??
Any help would be appreciated!
13-01-2011, 01:05 PM
#15
That is a programmable feature but not sure how you would do it on your model, do you have a instruction manual?
A quick search on the internet for you suggests there is a silence button you can press on the remote which does this? (I am assuming the siren actually works?)
Tabetha on here and others will no doubt know as this is a very popular alarm!
Martin
A quick search on the internet for you suggests there is a silence button you can press on the remote which does this? (I am assuming the siren actually works?)
Tabetha on here and others will no doubt know as this is a very popular alarm!
Martin
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