blueskies85

i have completed all the welding on my car and am now looking to blow it over. I have been quoted 500 quid and although never having painted a car before, I have sprayed a project scooter to good effect. I am therefore looking to spray the escort, well blow it over.

I was just wondering if the blow over consists of a primer base coat? I understand that usually the spray shop just etch the surface, apply colour coat then lacqueur.

any advice on the above would be grateful.

Thanks

neil andeRSon

iTrader: (3)

we 2 pack prime and flat all our repair's/new panel's before the base coat go's on. then it's the colour and laquer then baked.

blueskies85

do you rub down after prime?

lloydwillard132

we usually only etch bare metal or filler.
other wise we just surface prime aka 2k prime
and then flat it all.
then colour and fianally laquer if needed
then flat and then spin over
then wash and polish

jacko

you have to or the paint will fall off

lloydwillard132

depends how good you want the job to come out but we restore and repair porsche's so we do our spray jobs are always spot on colour mtachs can be pain.

blueskies85

oh i see then thats fine... see i have got the booth and the oven to rent. Do i prime it then put it in the oven then flat it or do i just prime it, let it dry then flat it in the booth?

I know that the primer needs to be as good a surface as you want the paint to be and it is all in the prep lol

jacko

right get the filler and repairs as smooth as pos first then prime it

idealy leve it dry for a week then flat and paint

what colour is it

blueskies85

s2 escort rs turbo i think they called it mercury grey

jacko

prep will have to be right for mercury or it will stand the metalic flkakes on end in any scratches and make them look 10 times worse

blueskies85

thanks for all your advice jacko... i am a very patient guy and would love to give someone money to paint my car, its not me being a cheap skate... i have always wanted to paint my own car and am looking forward to doing so. I am very grateful for the positive input everyone is giving me and understand that the questions im asking here are probably very straight forward.

Jacko, you mentioned about letting it dry and leaving it a week. The problem that this may cause is that ill have to drive it back 50 miles to get it back home and dont really have anywhere i can leave it under cover, I could probably find somewhere. Is there anyway that it can all be done in one day or am i asking for a shit job if that is the case?
You said about the metallic flakes standing on end, how do I stop that and what are your flattening procedures? I mean using blocks or hand or a machine and what are the grit paper steps, do you keep it wet all the time etc etc?

blueskies85

i meant to thank everyone for the advice and positive comments, I usually post in the rs turbo section but seem to have been greeted much more kindly here lol

RSandy

iTrader: (1)

in terms of gettin it done using 1 days use of the booth and oven, i guess u could get away with priming elsewhere, maybe a garage or sumthin? few plastic sheets up, and apply some good quality high build primer, then let that dry and harden for a week, then flat it.

the primer coat will need to be taken down to 800grade anyways, so any shit in the primer coat will end up being removed in the flatting process, meaning u dnt necessarily need the booth to apply that, just somewhere dry and with maybe a space heater

then wen its completely prepped and flatted to 800, roll it to the booth and u can get your base and laquer coating done in a good day

other than that, no way ur gonna get a good finish doing primer, base and laquer in 1 single day

blueskies85

cheers rsandy, That wont be a problem I can get it primed elsewhere and ill just take the car off the road for a week then when its dry ill take it to the booth and use there prep bays to get it down to 800, de greased and tack ragged then i can spray it.
Should How many coats would you recommend on the base and laquer, i take it it goes in the oven after each coat is applied for 3 quarters of an hour?

iansoutham

Why prime it a week early?

You have access to a low-bake booth, prime it in there. 15 minute low-bake cycle and the primer is ready to go.

I'd only prime it and leave it if I was working without a booth.

lloydwillard132

make sure that the oven is completly clean if unsure evenly spread out a bucket of water and sweep around entire oven floor with a broom.
flat the primer with 400 on a d.a (dual action sander)but before you prime it put a dust coat of black over all the filler work and then flat down with 180grit paper on a block then as long as its all straight which you will be able to tell because if it isnt you will still have dark patches and they will either be high or low points if high then use a hammer and dolly to beat it down then put a small spread of filler to just fill in any in perfections you may of caused.Then key any tight areas up with grey scotch because as its a metalic you want the flakes to lay flat.

then blow it all off make sure you clean right in all the creases and every where dust could be lurking.Then one panel at a time panel wipe it making sure you keep wiping it until it all looks a matt colour then tack rag it off this and the panel wipe will get rid of any lubricants loose dirt and general crap.then mask out whole car.

now you can apply the etch to the bare metal areas and areas which have got filler should only take about 2-3 coats then give the whole car 1-2 coats of etch then straight after applying the etch let it jus settle which if you leave it whilst you mix the surface primer(2k primer) by the time you go back in it will be ready.
Then apply probally 2-3 coats of surface primer(2k primer)to the whole car.

Now just let it bake for 15-20mins.
take it out of oven and de mask it all.now start to d.a(dual action sander)with 600 grit discs.if unsure of your paint work skills apply a dust coat of matt black paint and went it all looks even you know youve achieved.once the whole cars primer is to your satisfactory then blow off,panel wipe and tack rag.and once again mask out whole car.

You can now spray colour and then laquer let the colour flash off for 5mins before applying laquer.then let it bake off for 25mins.

Once baked off take out oven de mask and start to flat it all done with either 1500 or 2000 wet and dry paper be very carefull when flating near edges you do not want to rub through.then when its all matt mop it up with advance liquid compound then a good wash and polish. job done lovely jubly

blueskies85

thanks loyd willard you are a star... i am very grateful of your knowledge and hope that the job goes as good as i want it too. Im going to do everything as you say to the letter and not start until I have all the knowledge and equipment.
What do you mean when you say about grey scotching tight areas as I want the metallic to lay flat?
Its going to be handy to be able to do the whole lot in a day as I can be in and out, I have use of the prep bay, paint bay and low bake oven... prep bay is 10 pound an hour, paint bay 25 an hour and oven 25 an hour.
Should I just drive it there washed and do all the prep there and then or is there anything I can do on my drive way to help the process?

lloydwillard132

if you need anythink else just ask but im going bed now night all

RSandy

iTrader: (1)

i wouldnt fancy tryin to primer and get it dry and flatted perfectly in a single day, let alone then get it ready and base n laquer it on the same day

there was a good few man hours in the prep alone of my shell and panels removing all the orange peel and imperfections from the high build coat

i spose what this boils down to is the finish hes after. any job done from start to finish in a single day (assuming this to be about a 12hour day max) wont b to the sort of standard of a job where the same time is applied to merely applying and flatting the primer coat

blueskies85

oh and where shall i buy all my paint supplies from? I want the best obviously with a lovely glossy laquer so it looks dripping when she is polished lol!

blueskies85

rs andy, im after the best possible results... i can leave the car in there for a couple of days if needed. I was planning on going down there on friday afternoon and starting work around the 2 o clock mark and finishing till the car is ready for primer, then doing all the paint work in a day, or would it be better to perhaps prep the most on my drive, take it to the shop for final prep, prime on friday and then do the rest the following day?

lloydwillard132

well as for the grey scotching so the metalics sit flat is in a circular motion asif ur waxing a car say for instants tarond the tail light youve got the lips and edges corners etc you wont be able to use a tool for this except your hand and some grey scotch.also any groves such as were the wiper arms attatch to,the were the arch curves on the wing and just below window appertures.erm yes a clean car is a good idea but not really to necassary as you are doing a full respray.and all i wouldnt do anythink at home because if weather turns nasty ur screwed what ever you start to do.as long as you key the surface primer up well the flakes will lay nice and flat.where are you based btw?i may be able to give you a hand

lloydwillard132

it all depends what your going to remove off of the car and what your going to mask up.it takes two of us a 7 hour day to filler prep and prime and start flatting it.then the following day colour and laquer if needed and then following day flat,mop and wash n polish.also make sure none of your masking tape is touching body work and that what you stick it to is clean and secure

RSandy

iTrader: (1)

if u check my resto thread in resto room, mallard green s2, u wil see my shell was prepped and sprayed start to finish without ever leaving my garage, and its come out gorgeous, and its all down to the prep, and also the fact that 1 of my best mates is pretty damn good at this whole bodywork thing lol

basically we got the filler work done etc, and then got the bare shell in lechler ti green tint high build primer on an afternoon, and left that to harden for a few days, applied a guide coat, then went at it with 800grit wet n dry, until all orange peel was gone and the surface was as smooth as poss. same process for the panels done separetely in a mates garage. all in all just the time for preping them with the 800 to a standard ready for paint took a good 8-10 hours with 2 of us going at it. all by hand, no d/a use as its a bit of a heavy handed method for something that really needs to be precise

this is assuming u get it right 1st time, until the primer hits, its hard to see any imperfections, so if u do find any filler imperfections etc, theres more prep for you, especially if more filler is required, as then u need to apply more primer, and re-prep the area etc

im no bodywork expert, and so clearly i wudnt b the fastest at the job, but i cnt see u gettin the finish u want with the rushed schedule, unless of course im missing something and ur a bodyshop guru on the sly lol

jacko

if you force dry hi build primer it can trap solvents and then sink after paint around the repairs your better off priming it before you take it there and flat it there to then take it on a trailor cos you will have all the kit to do aswell and it will take 2 goes in the oven

blueskies85

thats a good idea and i didnt know about trapping solvents. Will i be ok to drive it 50 miles instead of taking it on the trailor? I dont have access to a trailor thats the only thing. I am probably going to prime it this weekend at work in that case, but ill have to drive it to work, will this be a problem as ill be prepping it at the booth anyways.

What grit shall i rub the body work down to before i apply the primer and what primer shall i apply?

Thanks

blueskies85

thats a very kind offer mate, im near oxford mate in a town called didcot. It is 2 and a half hours from southend as I have family there. Alternatively I can drive it to you and we can do it at yours if you have all the equipment and facilities lol.

blueskies85

i have a spray gun, paint, filler, wet and dry etc etc, just not a spray booth, oven.. thought id add that as i dont want to sound cheekey to the above post lol

jacko

2k hi build primer 400 da finnish before primer

800 wet paper to flat primer grey scotch for the rest then on with the paint

lloydwillard132

probaly not im afraid as its not my workshop its my boss.

blueskies85

thats fine mate, I may do the prep at my work as we have air, and all the facilities. I may even go for the spray at work as it is dust free, its an aircraft hanger, modern with heating and bright lights, I also have the bay that i work in to use, its got an extractor fan.
Im undecided really, sure the booth will be useful but it is going to mean driving the car primed up.
Is it a necessity to paint in a booth or am i asking for a shit spray job if i do it elsewhere i.e. in a warm hanger?

RSandy

iTrader: (1)

my car was painted in a basic double garage attached to the side of my house! lol

some people will always insist u cnt get a good finish doing this, but a lot of my mates are painters and bodywork guys, and they are really impressed with the paint finish, spose it helped the guy who sprayed it has his own bodywork business etc

all we did was clean the garage floor as close to perfect as poss, then soaked it several times with the hose to keep any dust down. we put up sheets all around the sides of the garage, and in the ceiling, plus taped up the main garage door seals etc. i put a space heater in to warm the area before spraying, altho it was summer so was fairly warm anyways. plus i hired an extractor unit from HSS, which considering how small it was, removed all the hanging overspray from the area really quickly, so this probs was a big reason why the finish was so good

the finish straight from the gun was amazing, and then has ended up like glass with a quick colour flat with 2000, and a machine polish

notroubleclubber

Im looking at doing mine or getting someone to do it.Just want the rear quaters and touch ups here and there done though as had new arches but apparently they need tapping in then filling ,grinding etc, ive been told quite an involved job.

lloydwillard132

when arches are fitted they should be ground down there and then really.and if you wanted my place to do it your looking at probaly 2and half grand if nt bit mre.but our work is lovely.