1996 Fiesta 1.25 Zetec cutting out.
31-05-2008, 10:31 AM
#1
Virgin
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1996 Fiesta 1.25 Zetec cutting out.
Hi,
Struggling with this, the girlfriend has a 1996 Fiesta with the 1.25 zetec engine.
Basically initially it started to "run away" with itself, the revs would rise on their own and it would drive itself basically!
Went into the garage at MOT time, they did a bit of work to it, took her for a fairly sizable bill, and well its not sorted.
Instead of the revs rising, it now cuts out.
If your at low speed using small throttle openings, you lose any throttle response, if you open the throttle, then let off the gas, and repress it again, you have no response from the engine for the second press of the accelerator. You have to let it go all the way back to idle for a second or so before you would get any response from the engine at all. Its also taken to just cutting out at low rpm, and no she isnt stalling the car as ive driven it too and had the same problem.
The only thing ive tried so far is the idle control valve. Following a guide i found http://www.ford-force.com/forums/ind...showtopic=3089, I tested it by removing the multiplug with the engine running and it stalls which is what the guide said it should do.
What else can i try without starting to just buy and replace parts in the hope that it will fix it. Have a full set of tools, just about anything ill need to do the job.
Struggling with this, the girlfriend has a 1996 Fiesta with the 1.25 zetec engine.
Basically initially it started to "run away" with itself, the revs would rise on their own and it would drive itself basically!
Went into the garage at MOT time, they did a bit of work to it, took her for a fairly sizable bill, and well its not sorted.
Instead of the revs rising, it now cuts out.
If your at low speed using small throttle openings, you lose any throttle response, if you open the throttle, then let off the gas, and repress it again, you have no response from the engine for the second press of the accelerator. You have to let it go all the way back to idle for a second or so before you would get any response from the engine at all. Its also taken to just cutting out at low rpm, and no she isnt stalling the car as ive driven it too and had the same problem.
The only thing ive tried so far is the idle control valve. Following a guide i found http://www.ford-force.com/forums/ind...showtopic=3089, I tested it by removing the multiplug with the engine running and it stalls which is what the guide said it should do.
What else can i try without starting to just buy and replace parts in the hope that it will fix it. Have a full set of tools, just about anything ill need to do the job.
Last edited by Berger; 31-05-2008 at 10:32 AM.
02-06-2008, 09:09 PM
#4
Virgin
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Unplugged the MAF it made the idle and engine response a lot worse, the two wires inside looked clean and relatively new.
Found this on a mondeo site which sounds almost identical to the problem im having, just not 100% sure which is the crankcase breather valve! I think its right next to the ICV, just a push fit with an O ring i think.
Found this on a mondeo site which sounds almost identical to the problem im having, just not 100% sure which is the crankcase breather valve! I think its right next to the ICV, just a push fit with an O ring i think.
Crankcase Breather Valve (Positive Pressure Valve)
Ł6 for a small metal valve, that can be the source of a very bad idle. Designed to allow excess crankcase pressure to escape it causes a bad idle when partially blocked and will stall the engine when completely blocked.
Ford say this should be changed at 30,000 mile intervals but don't list it in the service guides (nor do Haynes), mine failed at 110k. It is a pig to change as it is hidden behind the exhaust manifold. Symptoms of this blocking are a good idle when cold, getting worse as you warm up leading to complete stalling at working temps. The engine seemed to pulse and hunt with a one second frequency between 1500 and 1700 rpm
Ł6 for a small metal valve, that can be the source of a very bad idle. Designed to allow excess crankcase pressure to escape it causes a bad idle when partially blocked and will stall the engine when completely blocked.
Ford say this should be changed at 30,000 mile intervals but don't list it in the service guides (nor do Haynes), mine failed at 110k. It is a pig to change as it is hidden behind the exhaust manifold. Symptoms of this blocking are a good idle when cold, getting worse as you warm up leading to complete stalling at working temps. The engine seemed to pulse and hunt with a one second frequency between 1500 and 1700 rpm
02-06-2008, 09:41 PM
#5
Wahay!! I've lost my Virginity!!
Hi,
The only thing ive tried so far is the idle control valve. Following a guide i found http://www.ford-force.com/forums/ind...showtopic=3089, I tested it by removing the multiplug with the engine running and it stalls which is what the guide said it should do.
The only thing ive tried so far is the idle control valve. Following a guide i found http://www.ford-force.com/forums/ind...showtopic=3089, I tested it by removing the multiplug with the engine running and it stalls which is what the guide said it should do.
03-06-2008, 05:47 AM
#6
20K+ Super Poster.
The PCV valve does not cause what you have, it does not cause what is described above either, it is NOT there for EXCESS pressure but to close off the breathing when at idle, so as not to weaken the already weak idle mixture, it opens above idle to allow pressure to be sucked out of the engine crankcase.
It is temp related other than a WEAK mixture is more of a problem when hot.
Just squeeze the hose leading from the PCV shut with pliers etc if you want to to test it, the most likely problem on mondy is the "T" piece that goes to the PCV valve, as these split/perish and cause all manner of air leaks.
tabetha
It is temp related other than a WEAK mixture is more of a problem when hot.
Just squeeze the hose leading from the PCV shut with pliers etc if you want to to test it, the most likely problem on mondy is the "T" piece that goes to the PCV valve, as these split/perish and cause all manner of air leaks.
tabetha
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
JK12
Pictures, video & Photoshop Forum
33
26-04-2021 12:09 PM
3dr cossie
Alloy wheels and ICE for sale
1
02-09-2015 08:58 PM
