camber ajustment/castor ajustment
righty ho- im looking at camber/castor ajustable TCA's for the old rwd beast...
currently according to haynes the car has posotive camber on the front...
although what i have always been tought, for a tad competetive driving/hard driving you want negative camber for cornering on the front
and as much castor as you can get away with (to an extent)
But i was wondering would this actually IMPROVE the handling noticeably, going from about 1degree posotive camber to 1degree negative camber, ((for example)). and a higer rate of castor to the negative
.
what should i be aiming for here posotive or negative and what kinda degree????
discuss
currently according to haynes the car has posotive camber on the front...
although what i have always been tought, for a tad competetive driving/hard driving you want negative camber for cornering on the front
and as much castor as you can get away with (to an extent)But i was wondering would this actually IMPROVE the handling noticeably, going from about 1degree posotive camber to 1degree negative camber, ((for example)). and a higer rate of castor to the negative
what should i be aiming for here posotive or negative and what kinda degree????
discuss
I'd advise about 4 - 5 degrees of castor and 2 degrees of camber to start...to much castor will make the steering very heavy....
How do you plan to acheive the castor, washers behind the ARB....?
Both alterations will make the turn sharper.......
How do you plan to acheive the castor, washers behind the ARB....?
Both alterations will make the turn sharper.......
well i found some TCA's with "ajustable camber and castor" but tbh im not sure at all how the castor ajustment would work. n yea camber first, then castor then i know if ive got too much camber/i have fubared up the castor or sumthing stupid....
how would ajusting the castor work, like... how would you do it??
and how the bloody hell do you change the camber on rear leaf spring live axel arse ends?? thats posotive too iirc!!
how would ajusting the castor work, like... how would you do it??
and how the bloody hell do you change the camber on rear leaf spring live axel arse ends?? thats posotive too iirc!!
Chip,
I assumed i was the capri....
To do the camber is easy...fit the TCA's, get everything tight and settle the suspension, you will need a camber gauge, measure the camber and adjust evenly til you see the right result (thats assuming they are double adjustable/insitu adjustable). Check the tracking, as chances are you've disturbed that, reset the tracking, job done....
Castor adjustment is a little more difficult.....you need some pretty specialised gear to accurately do the castor, i'd doubt the tca would have castor adjustment on it.....show us a pic....normal way to achieve castor adjustment on a capri/mk2 is to drag forward the tca's on the anti-roll bar, of course a better way is to fit compression struts then you will have proper castor adjustment.
Ride height also affects all settings, toe, camber and castor, so you need to be sure this is at the correct setting for your application.
The only way to alter camber on the rear isn't possible and I have never seen a live axle with positive camber.....where are you taking you measurements of information from ?
HTH
Ian
I assumed i was the capri....
To do the camber is easy...fit the TCA's, get everything tight and settle the suspension, you will need a camber gauge, measure the camber and adjust evenly til you see the right result (thats assuming they are double adjustable/insitu adjustable). Check the tracking, as chances are you've disturbed that, reset the tracking, job done....
Castor adjustment is a little more difficult.....you need some pretty specialised gear to accurately do the castor, i'd doubt the tca would have castor adjustment on it.....show us a pic....normal way to achieve castor adjustment on a capri/mk2 is to drag forward the tca's on the anti-roll bar, of course a better way is to fit compression struts then you will have proper castor adjustment.
Ride height also affects all settings, toe, camber and castor, so you need to be sure this is at the correct setting for your application.
The only way to alter camber on the rear isn't possible and I have never seen a live axle with positive camber.....where are you taking you measurements of information from ?
HTH
Ian
haynes lol, im not too sure about the rear camber =(
yah mk3 capri
, going to fit them myself, get them something right and then drop the car off at my local garage, Ł23 later tracking and camber done with specialist crap 
cant go wrong for that price.
is the castor ajustment worth its time and money or not??
the tca's i was looking at were...
either ~
http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/catalog...oducts_id=7177
or
http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/catalog...oducts_id=7194
the second ones look a bit daft
yah mk3 capri
cant go wrong for that price.
is the castor ajustment worth its time and money or not??
the tca's i was looking at were...
either ~
http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/catalog...oducts_id=7177
or
http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/catalog...oducts_id=7194
the second ones look a bit daft
A little misleading I suppose, but all they actually do is give you camber adjustment, the ability to do castor is as a result of the rose joint running at a more acute angle than standard (if you get drift) a normal bush would be under intense twist with a severe castor angle......The way to achieve the desired castor would be as I said earlier, either washer/shim the anti-roll bar to drag the TCA's forwad, compression or tension struts for an ultimate set-up. Down side is more noise transfer from the suspension but overall superior handling, does the car have an anti-dive and double width kit fitted? these are a cheap and useful upgrade for the capri set-up.....
Castor is useful....severe castor will dramatically improve the turn in, especially high speed, but as I said the down side can be a heavy feel...I know a guy who runs 7 degrees on a sunbeam and thats mighty heavy....
HTH
Ian
Castor is useful....severe castor will dramatically improve the turn in, especially high speed, but as I said the down side can be a heavy feel...I know a guy who runs 7 degrees on a sunbeam and thats mighty heavy....
HTH
Ian
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i might do the power steering option before castor then, its heavy enough as you can imagine, no power steering on such a large front end!
yea ive had the anti-dive kit for a while, aswel as 190lb springs, brilliant comfort absoloutley transformed the braking and handling... but doesnt compare to other cars ive driven with a bit of work
.
so with those tca's it would be safer (without breaking things) to run with enough castor at a later date.
any other tips for improving the handling??
other than shock absorbers, which im trying to find a reasonabley priced set of.
thanx for all the info
much appreciated
yea ive had the anti-dive kit for a while, aswel as 190lb springs, brilliant comfort absoloutley transformed the braking and handling... but doesnt compare to other cars ive driven with a bit of work
so with those tca's it would be safer (without breaking things) to run with enough castor at a later date.
any other tips for improving the handling??
other than shock absorbers, which im trying to find a reasonabley priced set of.
thanx for all the info
much appreciated
Power steering, again will make the older cars come alive, I have a couple of mk2's to do ATM and we are looking at the various options in regard to the sensitivity devices used to control the corsa'b' column. There is quite a bit of debate in the rallying fraternity, as soem of the cheaper options make the columns feel too light right through the speed range......
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