i have recently put a set of 330mm discs and 6 pot willwood calipers on my 2wd saph
when you drive you can hear the pads rubbing on the discs
and the dust that comes from them turns my white wheels grey in no time at all
allso the groves on the discs have worn away in around two weeks
of driving the car at weekends
the pads are .hawk performance black. if it helps
i have blead the breaks 7 times
and claend the pad runners

 

bled the brakes -how many times!!!!!!
you will get initial contact rubbing with any new set of pads-(bedding in), and you say you have removed the brake cuts on the discs due to wear ????? ??.
you must either have a soft cheap metal discs and/also very hard abrasive compound material
cannot understand the continual bleeding of the brakes though!!!, as pads wear the level of fluid drops as expected but when pads replaced the level goes back to original level!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>tab 's over for your views on this----------

 

I can't beleive the grooves have worn in two weeks, are you surte they have not just filled up with brake dust, if they were this aggresive you would have major problems.
HAWK can be a comparitively soft pad, depending on which exact ones you have as there are many.
As for the rubbing sound, you can get some sound when braking but should go as soon as you release the pedal, unless you have a sticky piston or two ?
Continually bleeding the brakes will not acieve anything, watch for pad knock back when someone operates the pedal next time.
tabetha

 

thanks for the help
just a few more questions

what do you meen by pad knock back tabetha ?

the discs are willwood so shouldnt be soft should they ?

all the pads say on them is hawk performence and i belive the the type is black would this be a very abrasive type ?

the discs are defonetley whorn

and larst but not least the rubing is constent when not breaking
i have jacked the car up and spun the wheels and it sounds like the pads are touching the discs

 

the only reason i bled the breaks so meny times is to try to sort the rubing out

 

sounds like the calipers are siezed, are they secondhand?

 

Pad knock back is the PISTON RETRACTING into the caliper when the pressure is released.
The seals are normally(but not always) SQUARE cut so that they pull the piston back into the caliper when the brake pedal is released, only a fraction but can clearly be seen.
If you remove the caliper or disc and get someone to very gently push the brake pedal about 2" then release slowly you will see the pistons retract slightly, this is so that they are not in constant contact with the disc.
If there is defo constant rubbing it depends on HOW MUCH ?, you should certainly be able to easily turn the wheel by hand, it is rare for discs to be 100% true so they will have DTV(high spots) that rub each time the disc with this passes the pads, this is normal.
Can you easily turn the discs by hand ?
The BLACK pads you have are NOT really road pads they are sprint/hill climb pads, and as such will be exceptionally abrasive having to work at very low temperatures.
Look on Rally DEsign webbie for more road orientated pads.
tabetha

 

6 pots generally have a low pressure spring behind the largest piston to keep it in light contact with the disc, they are designed for race applications and this spring helps combat pad knock off (as racers hate it as it can be dangerous)

We do the same with our 6 pots, and so do AP on some of theirs. Its only a light 2lb spring so the rubbing is normal and far better than suffering pad knock off...

The grooves are for gas venting when bedding in new pads. Once they have been baked with the initial bedding in procedure the grooves are effectivly not needed as no more gasses are produced from the material.

A groove is not a WEAR indicator - that is measured by the thickness of the rotor. If they (the pads) have been bedded in correctly the groove is no longer needed.

If the groove is initially made deeper to be like more of a wear indicator you will suffer cracked discs in about 6 months time as the surface is made weaker.

Its done its job now if you have bedded in the pads correctly so stop worrying unless you want it for show

 

the breaks came off a rolling cossie shell i bought for the breaks and some other bits
i took the breaks off and it looks like the pistons arent returning (i strugeld to get them off )
if the piston is siezed can this be solved easy
the wheel turned with out eney effort at all when jacked up but there is defo pad and disc contact
could i un sieze the caliper with a big pair of pliers and a can of wd40 ?