Cossie crank pulley bolt question?
#1
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Changing my Sierra Cossie cam belt.
Need to take off the alternator/power steering belt pulley from crank.
Cant undo bolt.
Is it a left handed thread or normal please?
If its normal, suggestions for getting it undone please?
Thanks
Dave
Need to take off the alternator/power steering belt pulley from crank.
Cant undo bolt.
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Is it a left handed thread or normal please?
If its normal, suggestions for getting it undone please?
Thanks
Dave
#2
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Normal right hand thread, so UNDO ANTI CLOCKWISE.
Easiest way is to get helper in car in fith gear, on axle stands with thier foot on the brakes so it holds the engine still/ish, then long bar/socket on the bolt, should not be any problem then
tabetha
Easiest way is to get helper in car in fith gear, on axle stands with thier foot on the brakes so it holds the engine still/ish, then long bar/socket on the bolt, should not be any problem then
tabetha
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Tried that but no joy.
Have also tried the old "turn the starter motor againts it" trick, but that didn't work either - just stopped solid! lol Although going to try it again tomorrow but with more "swing" for the breaker bar and hopefully that will do it
Bet after I eventually get the bolt off that the pulley will be the next thing to be stuck too!
Have also tried the old "turn the starter motor againts it" trick, but that didn't work either - just stopped solid! lol Although going to try it again tomorrow but with more "swing" for the breaker bar and hopefully that will do it
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Bet after I eventually get the bolt off that the pulley will be the next thing to be stuck too!
#4
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Pulley won't be stuck as 2wd, only normally a major proiblem on 4wd farmer type cossies!!
If it is a pain and does not literraly fall off, remove woodruff and use some(fine) lapping paste on nose of crank to take away any surface rust.
You will need to take off boost hoses etc as the methoid takes so muc swing before t starts to wok due to slop in engine mounts etc taking up movement, I had a 3 foot b/bar on and it still took a bit of effort, had been done up way too tight, bust me holding strap on it first though.
tabetha
If it is a pain and does not literraly fall off, remove woodruff and use some(fine) lapping paste on nose of crank to take away any surface rust.
You will need to take off boost hoses etc as the methoid takes so muc swing before t starts to wok due to slop in engine mounts etc taking up movement, I had a 3 foot b/bar on and it still took a bit of effort, had been done up way too tight, bust me holding strap on it first though.
tabetha
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i had this with my 2wd only answer is a snap on pulley puller (three prong jobbie) found this out after trying 5 different pullers to no avail
a little gentle heating also helps
like was said earlier though the bolt is a normal thread so anti-clockwise to undo
good luck
a little gentle heating also helps
like was said earlier though the bolt is a normal thread so anti-clockwise to undo
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good luck
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Bolt still stuck solid - had someone in the car this morning holding the brake pedal down and in 5th gear, but everything kept turning, so tried 1st gear which held it a bit better but bolt still would not crack!
Am using a 3 ton trolley jack handle for leverage which is about a metre long.
Has been suggested that I could take out the radiator and intercooler and go for it with my air compressor/impact gun?
Engine was built about 20-30k ago by Harvey Gibbs around 7 years ago.
Am using a 3 ton trolley jack handle for leverage which is about a metre long.
Has been suggested that I could take out the radiator and intercooler and go for it with my air compressor/impact gun?
Engine was built about 20-30k ago by Harvey Gibbs around 7 years ago.
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I am going to try my air compressed wheel nut gun methinks.
Just a pain in the @rse taking out the rad and i/c to get the gun in there though!
Just a pain in the @rse taking out the rad and i/c to get the gun in there though!
#14
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The safest way is to:
1. Remove rad and intercooler
2. Undo crank bolt using an impact wrench
3. Use a good quality puller to remove pulley
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...balance-puller
![](http://www.integration.avatarimage.net/uploads/6a760058b4.jpg)
Any other way will probably result in a broken pulley
And i should know i'm on my third pulley
1. Remove rad and intercooler
2. Undo crank bolt using an impact wrench
3. Use a good quality puller to remove pulley
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...balance-puller
![](http://www.integration.avatarimage.net/uploads/6a760058b4.jpg)
Any other way will probably result in a broken pulley
![Wink](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
![Wink](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
And i should know i'm on my third pulley
![Surprised](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/bigcry.gif)
![Surprised](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/bigcry.gif)
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Thanks peeps.
I have a Machine Mart local to me as well - can see getting the pulley off being the next problem, as nothing is ever easy, lol
I have a Machine Mart local to me as well - can see getting the pulley off being the next problem, as nothing is ever easy, lol
#17
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Had this trouble before, the only thing that work's every time for me is to remove the starter motor and then wedge a suitable leaver between the bell housing and the teeth of the flywheel this locks everything solid,
I use a 2" bolster with a thin blade but be careful not to damage the flywheel teeth.
I use a 2" bolster with a thin blade but be careful not to damage the flywheel teeth.
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Cheers.
Father in law popping over tomorrow - if he cant get it off, then I really will start worrying, as he is a bit of a wizard in such matters!
Might have to start getting the RS2000 ready for the 'Ring as a back up.
Father in law popping over tomorrow - if he cant get it off, then I really will start worrying, as he is a bit of a wizard in such matters!
Might have to start getting the RS2000 ready for the 'Ring as a back up.
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Take out the starter, wedge a very big screwdriver or prybar in the teeth of the ring gear against the gearbox housing and hold it there while someone else undoes the pully with a good quality 6 sided socket and breaker bar (and scaffold tube if nessesary) this will work i promise you.
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OK, sorted, and here's how it worked on mine:
Two 13mm short bolts needed - put one with a big washer through the ring end of a beefy ring spanner and tighten into threaded hole on crank pulley. Thread other bolt most of way into opposite edge hole on same pulley. Axle stand under open end of spanner - turn pulley anti-clockwise to lock spanner onto axle stand.
10 minutes total of direct flame heat onto 24mm crank pulley bolt. (Two lots of 5 minutes so as not to melt any seals hopefully)
Used 1 metre long trolley jack handle over breaker bar to slacken bolt - just finally suddenly came loose after enough heating.
Pulley was hot enough too so literally could be pulled off with gloved hands.
Cashback!!!
Many thanks to all who gave tips, used pretty much all of them in one way or another.
Two 13mm short bolts needed - put one with a big washer through the ring end of a beefy ring spanner and tighten into threaded hole on crank pulley. Thread other bolt most of way into opposite edge hole on same pulley. Axle stand under open end of spanner - turn pulley anti-clockwise to lock spanner onto axle stand.
10 minutes total of direct flame heat onto 24mm crank pulley bolt. (Two lots of 5 minutes so as not to melt any seals hopefully)
Used 1 metre long trolley jack handle over breaker bar to slacken bolt - just finally suddenly came loose after enough heating.
Pulley was hot enough too so literally could be pulled off with gloved hands.
Cashback!!!
Many thanks to all who gave tips, used pretty much all of them in one way or another.
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Originally Posted by foreigneRS
the electric one would have worked and been a lot less hassle but glad you've sorted it ![Top](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/smile011.gif)
![Top](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/smile011.gif)
![Wink](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
Glad you got it off though
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Cool, yeah, had soaked it for a few days with the old penetrating fluid too.
Rad and i/c back in this weekend, then a few more bits and its off to Germany to the 'Ring next Friday - fingers crossed for no more hiccups!
Rad and i/c back in this weekend, then a few more bits and its off to Germany to the 'Ring next Friday - fingers crossed for no more hiccups!
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#27
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hi dave the reason the bolts are so hard to undo cos harvey puts them on with lock tight!(had the same problem)
have a good time at the ring mate!
have a good time at the ring mate!
#28
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They don't need locktite, this causes problems, I sometimes use SOFT SETTING locktite but would not even use that on these bolts, as there is not much strain here anyway.
tabetha
tabetha
#29
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it's got fuck all to do with strain, if you even know what that really means?
it's to do with vibration, and imo a thread locking compound is a good idea on all crankshaft related fasteners, even though it is not specified in the workshop manual!
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it's to do with vibration, and imo a thread locking compound is a good idea on all crankshaft related fasteners, even though it is not specified in the workshop manual!
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When the bolt came out, it was very clean and prob did not have anything on it - reckon it was just a combination of having been in there for at least 7 years and having been torqued up exceptionally tight.
Gonna sling the rad and i/c back in tomorrow so should be up and running this weekend for a test run.
Gonna sling the rad and i/c back in tomorrow so should be up and running this weekend for a test run.
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When the bolt came out, it was very clean and prob did not have anything on it - reckon it was just a combination of having been in there for at least 7 years and having been torqued up exceptionally tight.
Gonna sling the rad and i/c back in tomorrow so should be up and running this weekend for a test run.
Gonna sling the rad and i/c back in tomorrow so should be up and running this weekend for a test run.
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