Changing my Sierra Cossie cam belt.

Need to take off the alternator/power steering belt pulley from crank.

Cant undo bolt.

Is it a left handed thread or normal please?

If its normal, suggestions for getting it undone please?

Thanks
Dave

 

Normal right hand thread, so UNDO ANTI CLOCKWISE.
Easiest way is to get helper in car in fith gear, on axle stands with thier foot on the brakes so it holds the engine still/ish, then long bar/socket on the bolt, should not be any problem then
tabetha

 

Tried that but no joy.

Have also tried the old "turn the starter motor againts it" trick, but that didn't work either - just stopped solid! lol Although going to try it again tomorrow but with more "swing" for the breaker bar and hopefully that will do it

Bet after I eventually get the bolt off that the pulley will be the next thing to be stuck too!

 

Pulley won't be stuck as 2wd, only normally a major proiblem on 4wd farmer type cossies!!
If it is a pain and does not literraly fall off, remove woodruff and use some(fine) lapping paste on nose of crank to take away any surface rust.
You will need to take off boost hoses etc as the methoid takes so muc swing before t starts to wok due to slop in engine mounts etc taking up movement, I had a 3 foot b/bar on and it still took a bit of effort, had been done up way too tight, bust me holding strap on it first though.
tabetha

 

Still wont come off - its a 2wd with a 4wd engine

 

i had this with my 2wd only answer is a snap on pulley puller (three prong jobbie) found this out after trying 5 different pullers to no avail
a little gentle heating also helps
like was said earlier though the bolt is a normal thread so anti-clockwise to undo
good luck

 

I assume you are talking the bolt won't undo still ?, rather than the pulley is now stuck fast ?
tabetha

 

Bolt still stuck solid - had someone in the car this morning holding the brake pedal down and in 5th gear, but everything kept turning, so tried 1st gear which held it a bit better but bolt still would not crack!

Am using a 3 ton trolley jack handle for leverage which is about a metre long.

Has been suggested that I could take out the radiator and intercooler and go for it with my air compressor/impact gun?

Engine was built about 20-30k ago by Harvey Gibbs around 7 years ago.

 

remove rad and put a 12v Ł20 wheel nut gun on there. you will be surprised when it works

 

I am going to try my air compressed wheel nut gun methinks.

Just a pain in the @rse taking out the rad and i/c to get the gun in there though!

 

Why do people do them up this bloody tight!!
Good luck anyway.
tabetha

 

Thanks for all your help - will post up over the next few days to say how I will eventually get it undone



Hopefully...

 

if the pulley has the threaded mounting holes you can easily make a tool from 2 flat pieces of metal to hold it in place

 

The safest way is to:

1. Remove rad and intercooler
2. Undo crank bolt using an impact wrench
3. Use a good quality puller to remove pulley

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...balance-puller



Any other way will probably result in a broken pulley

And i should know i'm on my third pulley

 

Thanks peeps.

I have a Machine Mart local to me as well - can see getting the pulley off being the next problem, as nothing is ever easy, lol

 

Just ordered that puller ready!

 

Had this trouble before, the only thing that work's every time for me is to remove the starter motor and then wedge a suitable leaver between the bell housing and the teeth of the flywheel this locks everything solid,
I use a 2" bolster with a thin blade but be careful not to damage the flywheel teeth.

 

Tried the impact gun tonight without luck

 

Worst thing is, I am due off to the 'Ring in 2 weeks time!

 

try gently heating it ,then use the impact driver.
like i said had a nightmare doing mine
good luck

 

Cheers.

Father in law popping over tomorrow - if he cant get it off, then I really will start worrying, as he is a bit of a wizard in such matters!

Might have to start getting the RS2000 ready for the 'Ring as a back up.

 

Take out the starter, wedge a very big screwdriver or prybar in the teeth of the ring gear against the gearbox housing and hold it there while someone else undoes the pully with a good quality 6 sided socket and breaker bar (and scaffold tube if nessesary) this will work i promise you.

 

OK, sorted, and here's how it worked on mine:


Two 13mm short bolts needed - put one with a big washer through the ring end of a beefy ring spanner and tighten into threaded hole on crank pulley. Thread other bolt most of way into opposite edge hole on same pulley. Axle stand under open end of spanner - turn pulley anti-clockwise to lock spanner onto axle stand.

10 minutes total of direct flame heat onto 24mm crank pulley bolt. (Two lots of 5 minutes so as not to melt any seals hopefully)

Used 1 metre long trolley jack handle over breaker bar to slacken bolt - just finally suddenly came loose after enough heating.

Pulley was hot enough too so literally could be pulled off with gloved hands.

Cashback!!!

Many thanks to all who gave tips, used pretty much all of them in one way or another.

 

air impact guns are shit - the electric one would have worked and been a lot less hassle but glad you've sorted it

 

Agreed, also soaking the whole bolt with penetrating lubricant (WD40 or loctite) overnight helped me a lot, needs patience though

Glad you got it off though

 

Cool, yeah, had soaked it for a few days with the old penetrating fluid too.

Rad and i/c back in this weekend, then a few more bits and its off to Germany to the 'Ring next Friday - fingers crossed for no more hiccups!

 

hi dave the reason the bolts are so hard to undo cos harvey puts them on with lock tight!(had the same problem)

have a good time at the ring mate!

 

They don't need locktite, this causes problems, I sometimes use SOFT SETTING locktite but would not even use that on these bolts, as there is not much strain here anyway.
tabetha

 

it's got fuck all to do with strain, if you even know what that really means?

it's to do with vibration, and imo a thread locking compound is a good idea on all crankshaft related fasteners, even though it is not specified in the workshop manual!

 

When the bolt came out, it was very clean and prob did not have anything on it - reckon it was just a combination of having been in there for at least 7 years and having been torqued up exceptionally tight.

Gonna sling the rad and i/c back in tomorrow so should be up and running this weekend for a test run.

 

Well mines been in there for 18 years and I'm gonna do mine this weekend see what happens,