XR3i ignition problem...
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XR3i ignition problem...
Hi!
I have a problem with my MKI Orion 1.6i. Cylinder No2 wont work, and the revolution/min meter unit (dont know the English name... ) is totaly crazy. If i pull off the HT cable from the sparkplug at Cyl. No2, the revs wont change. The sparkplug is black and wet, the other plugs are ok. I have brand new distributor cap and rotor, but nothing's changed. I've put an other coil in (it is used... and it is from a '90 spec RST), so the rev.meter unit is ok, but still only 3 cylinders working.
Any ideas?
PS.: I've tried other sparkplugs too...
I have a problem with my MKI Orion 1.6i. Cylinder No2 wont work, and the revolution/min meter unit (dont know the English name... ) is totaly crazy. If i pull off the HT cable from the sparkplug at Cyl. No2, the revs wont change. The sparkplug is black and wet, the other plugs are ok. I have brand new distributor cap and rotor, but nothing's changed. I've put an other coil in (it is used... and it is from a '90 spec RST), so the rev.meter unit is ok, but still only 3 cylinders working.
Any ideas?
PS.: I've tried other sparkplugs too...
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Yes, it is reading eratically, but since i've put an other coil in, the readings ok, but still 3 cylinders working. Under accelerating, sometimes all of the cylinders work, but at full throttle only 3 cylinders working.
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Originally Posted by SafeChav
distributor cap & rotor arm?
maybe an injector or fuel distributor (i hope not!!!) fault??? I was thinking if the cylinder gets too much fuel, the symptoms will be the same...
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Swap the ht leads around so you put a known working one on that cylinder!
You said your plugs are wet, you sure you haven't got a bent/sticky valve
You said your plugs are wet, you sure you haven't got a bent/sticky valve
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Originally Posted by SafeChav
Swap the ht leads around so you put a known working one on that cylinder!
You said your plugs are wet, you sure you haven't got a bent/sticky valve
You said your plugs are wet, you sure you haven't got a bent/sticky valve
Im not sure about the valve (after 325000 km, i can not be sure...), but i've made compression test, all of the cylinders were 11.5 bar.
Ernie! I was thinking just the same, i've tried the cheapest thing first (sparkplug)!
ps: This fault was a little bit weird, becouse i went home in motorway (half an hour driving with130-140km/h), the car was ok, just like in the last 14 years. An hour later i washed the car and wanted to go to paint shop to buy paint for the car (little bit ironic). I've started the engine, but only 3 cylinders were working (sometimes 4). first i thought its becouse of the wash, but the engine and the surroundings were dry...
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Well if you have good compressions like that i would assume the engine is in a good state of repair.
How does that spark plug compare in appearance to the rest of them?
How does that spark plug compare in appearance to the rest of them?
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Fuel distributor normally.
Injectors wouldn;t go a miss if you have a set though, nothing to lose.
bet you a jam tart you break the injector clamps though
Injectors wouldn;t go a miss if you have a set though, nothing to lose.
bet you a jam tart you break the injector clamps though
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Originally Posted by SafeChav
Fuel distributor normally.
My father told me he can get me a pressure indicator, but i don't know the dimensions of threads at the distributor and at the wur. If someone can tell me, i can make connectors to measure the fuel pressures in the system.
ps: or i will go totally mad and change to '90 spec KE-jet, if it's possible... (good program for the weekend... )
ps2: has someone a wiring diagram for '90 spec rst? It will be usefull when i finish with the rst engine rebuilt-project.
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The vw one should be the same but who knows for definite?
No point chaning to KE Jet, thats even more tempermantal. Get the car on a CO analyser, that should tell you if theres any over fuelinng/underfuelling
And as for 90 spec RST, you'd be better off going on to EFI its a LOT LESS wiring and better in the long run.
No point chaning to KE Jet, thats even more tempermantal. Get the car on a CO analyser, that should tell you if theres any over fuelinng/underfuelling
And as for 90 spec RST, you'd be better off going on to EFI its a LOT LESS wiring and better in the long run.
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I've checked the injectors... No2 didn't work properly (it was leaking and it didn't "spray" the fuel) and the others were leaking and didn't look good. The other set were perfect. So i've put the other set in, the car started very good. The idle was about 1500 rpm, and the sound of the engine was very good. These were the good news...
The bad news: after ~30 sec of running, the engine stoped, VERY quickly!
It was just like when i turn off the ignition switch... no missfire or any change in the idle speed... after it has stopped, i can't start it, but after some minutes it starts fine again.
So, now i have totaly no idea...
The bad news: after ~30 sec of running, the engine stoped, VERY quickly!
It was just like when i turn off the ignition switch... no missfire or any change in the idle speed... after it has stopped, i can't start it, but after some minutes it starts fine again.
So, now i have totaly no idea...
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