rowen20

got my cab together after buying it with various bits botched up and missing, the problem i have is when i start it it runs fine for 20 to 30 seconds then cuts out and wont start again unless i leave it for 10 mins... tried changeing the pink fuel relay but made no diff... symptoms when it doesnt start are no fuel pump running... the relay cant be faulty though cos it starts and runs my other rs no problems, anyone got any ideas???

rowen20

also when the ignition is switched on there is a clicking noise coming from the amal valve?? also when it cuts out then the amal valve again clicks a couple of times??

gup

iTrader: (1)

when it doesnt start check that you have a spark it could be the distributer thats at fault

lukes1

ive got a mate who has this prob

rowen20

gup
ok ill check that cheers

lukes1
has your mate fixed it or not?[/b]

gup

iTrader: (1)

also check that the a/f meter flap is moving down smoothly try pushing down slowly when it doesnt start to c if this helps

rowen20

yea thats the first thing i tried was the metering unit.. put another one on but still doing the same

SafeChav

Distributor breaking down.

Check for spark when the fault occurs!

rowen20

ok ill check that tom, take it the dizzys pretty common problem?

lukes1

no, he bought an ecu off ebay and all was fine. his gearbox then went so it stood 4 bout a wk. went to fit another box and when he put ignition on the amal valve goes crazy and cranks just wont start.
disconnected the amal valve as hes running a bleed valve neway (amal wiring was left on)
got a good spark and its got a new f-p relay.his pump powers up ok though, havnt cracked off an injector yet though.

lukes1

rowen--- check out series1- misfire in tech q&a, i forgot to mention what else mine was doing, the cold start valve is nackered but i dont think its related- when i go to my car when its sat ie morning or evening to go home, i put the ignition on and the fuel pump is silent. i crank and it starts and runs for 3- 5 seconds and dies, even though im on the throttle. i then turn ignition on again and the pumps away. it then starts and runs fine. it was the ballyst resistor.i know its not the same but might be worth a try, im sure some1 will tell me if its not!

lukes1

whatever happens il let u no how mine starts 2moro

rowen20

k been working with the car... checked for spark, great spark all the time, however... there seems to be no fuel, i had a pipe off the metering unit and when cranking there is no fuel pressure, i tried 3 fuel relays 2 of which def work as they start my other car... could it be the pump as that does make a noise just not every single time you switch the ignition on

SafeChav

What colour is your fuel relay?

purple i bet

rowen20

purplely pink yea... how come?

SafeChav

The purple relays won't re-prime until the ignition has been off for about 5 seconds or more, so if your turning the ignition on and off quickly thats why your not always getting a prime

rowen20

right, ran a wire direct to the pump and gues what pump works for a few seconds then struggles and stops.... so put a new pump on bingo starts and runs.... but wont idle and is switching between 3 and 4 cylinders and engine itself is gettin extremely hot even though temp gauge reads o on the norm....

SafeChav

Compression test i say!

rowen20

yup only one cylinder thats ok... rest are shot...... oh well back to the drawing board! ha ha big thanks to everyone thats helped me here, SafeChav
your class cheers!

SafeChav

Oh dear

no worries give us a shout if you need anymore help