sierra v8
01-12-2006, 09:36 AM
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sierra v8
just need as much information as i can get i have a 3.5 rover v8 that i want to fit to a 2.0l sierra just need info on the wireing side and what to do about a gearbox etc etc
01-12-2006, 05:58 PM
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Minumum you want is a 2.8 diff on the back.
A type 9 4 spd box will do but the alloy bellhousing adaptor is hard to find and hard to find someone to make it these days. I sold my one from my MK1 escort for £400 last year (With the gearboxincuded) and don't forget the V8 clutch!
Wiring's not much different from what I can remember... you want 12v stuff - some Sierra stuff is 9v but I think if you use the 12v gear, the distributer stuff should all marry up as they know no different.
Oh and don't forget to cap off the fuel return pipe if you end up not using it!
A type 9 4 spd box will do but the alloy bellhousing adaptor is hard to find and hard to find someone to make it these days. I sold my one from my MK1 escort for £400 last year (With the gearboxincuded) and don't forget the V8 clutch!
Wiring's not much different from what I can remember... you want 12v stuff - some Sierra stuff is 9v but I think if you use the 12v gear, the distributer stuff should all marry up as they know no different.
Oh and don't forget to cap off the fuel return pipe if you end up not using it!
20-08-2010, 07:59 PM
#4
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What about a more modern engine with more torque and power and a 6 speed G`box ? ....a Chevy LS1 maybe ? 
Whould that fit ? I have been thinking about it.........
Whould that fit ? I have been thinking about it.........
21-08-2010, 10:08 AM
#5
The 9V you refer to is if you have a 'Ballest' ignition coil, either coil will work it was done to aid starting purposes as takes less power leaving more in reserve for starting, the early Rover V8 I.E P5/P6 were twin SU (HIF 6) carbs while the latter were EFI (SD1, Range Rover, TVR'S)
As said the Type 9 gearbox will do the job, most Rover's are actually converted to this when people do 5 speed conversions.
If you have a carb one your laughing as you have everything you need, if EFI you will need the associated/aftermarket management and loom, and compatiable fuel pump if the one you have isn't up to the job.
I know a Rover/P6 specialist if you get stuck who could supply with one from a manual Rover V8.
Martin
As said the Type 9 gearbox will do the job, most Rover's are actually converted to this when people do 5 speed conversions.
If you have a carb one your laughing as you have everything you need, if EFI you will need the associated/aftermarket management and loom, and compatiable fuel pump if the one you have isn't up to the job.
I know a Rover/P6 specialist if you get stuck who could supply with one from a manual Rover V8.
Martin
21-08-2010, 07:41 PM
#6
20K+ Super Poster.
Just to correct a few things early P5/P6 V8 could have either stromberg CD175, zenith 361V, or SU.
Most rover SD1 were carb not injection inc the V8S, VP and Vitesse were FI, though a shit system such as lucas L4CU mostly flap and hot wire some better than others.
If it is a P5 engine the first thing you need to do is replace the rope seal rear crank bearing fort a newer sort, there are several design differences down the years but all basically the same, mostly down to age.
Millions of range rovers were carb as well.
When BMW owned rover they improved the V8 with close fitting caps on the 3950cc engine, these had the facility for cross bolting but this was not used on the 3950 just the 4.6, though 3950 blocks could be converted to fully cross bolted.
The ignition system was not at all designed to operate at 9V leaving more in reserve for starting, it was merely down to the fact that voltage under cranking could drop to 9v, using a 12v coil with 9v isn't going to be very successful!!
If it's carb it is a lot easier, but fi or efi is till not hard.
Personally I would use the LT77 or R380 box as originally fitted on the rover V8, if you can the leyland sherpa V8's as supplied to the plod and ambulances etc use a slightly better version of both boxes, they are quite a slow changing box, but even a mildly tuned 3950 is going to around 250+ lbft at less than 2000rpm, it will shred a type 9 but won't bother a LT7 or R380.
As for the diff the bog std diff can cope, in fact a 3.14:1 has been on the V8 xr4i sat outside my window now for 6 years or so, and it does get used hard, gearing would be the biggest bug bear, way too under geared with 3.62:1, we also tried my 3.38:1 but this too was way under geared, makes a hell of a nice easy to drive fast car.
The heads are a bit of a disaster, in flow terms, and the most common cr is only 9.35:1, so a 3950 block with 3.5 heads works well.
I wired my dads one in in less than 2 hours, and it started first turn of the key, we used the std return to the tank for the feed to the carbs through a pressure regulator, we use a facet red top pump, engine mounts are easy to make, I used land rover cotton reel engine mounts simply mounted onto the std cross member under engine and made plates type mounts to go on engine.
The V8 is a long engine so you may/can have clearance problems at front, so use the shortest pulley set up you can on the engine.
The std prop can twist like a chew and snap clean in two, trust me I did it, so need a decent one making, the std, non CJ13 joints on the prop will break apart.
The most annoying bit though is the manifolds, most likely will need to dent it in around the steering shaft area, gearbox support can easily be made from the std sierra one and the std rover one with cut and shut.
Tacho can be altered for around £55 by speedy cables, can't remember what cable we used think it was either the std ford or std rover one fitted both ends ok, on a Lt77 box anyway, the change is slow so it is actually quicker 0-60 starting in 2nd gear and slipping a bit, pulling away normally in 2nd even with a 3.14:1 diff doesn't bother it at all.
The 3.14:1 diff was from a sierra mk1 diesel 2.3 estate.
tabetha
Most rover SD1 were carb not injection inc the V8S, VP and Vitesse were FI, though a shit system such as lucas L4CU mostly flap and hot wire some better than others.
If it is a P5 engine the first thing you need to do is replace the rope seal rear crank bearing fort a newer sort, there are several design differences down the years but all basically the same, mostly down to age.
Millions of range rovers were carb as well.
When BMW owned rover they improved the V8 with close fitting caps on the 3950cc engine, these had the facility for cross bolting but this was not used on the 3950 just the 4.6, though 3950 blocks could be converted to fully cross bolted.
The ignition system was not at all designed to operate at 9V leaving more in reserve for starting, it was merely down to the fact that voltage under cranking could drop to 9v, using a 12v coil with 9v isn't going to be very successful!!
If it's carb it is a lot easier, but fi or efi is till not hard.
Personally I would use the LT77 or R380 box as originally fitted on the rover V8, if you can the leyland sherpa V8's as supplied to the plod and ambulances etc use a slightly better version of both boxes, they are quite a slow changing box, but even a mildly tuned 3950 is going to around 250+ lbft at less than 2000rpm, it will shred a type 9 but won't bother a LT7 or R380.
As for the diff the bog std diff can cope, in fact a 3.14:1 has been on the V8 xr4i sat outside my window now for 6 years or so, and it does get used hard, gearing would be the biggest bug bear, way too under geared with 3.62:1, we also tried my 3.38:1 but this too was way under geared, makes a hell of a nice easy to drive fast car.
The heads are a bit of a disaster, in flow terms, and the most common cr is only 9.35:1, so a 3950 block with 3.5 heads works well.
I wired my dads one in in less than 2 hours, and it started first turn of the key, we used the std return to the tank for the feed to the carbs through a pressure regulator, we use a facet red top pump, engine mounts are easy to make, I used land rover cotton reel engine mounts simply mounted onto the std cross member under engine and made plates type mounts to go on engine.
The V8 is a long engine so you may/can have clearance problems at front, so use the shortest pulley set up you can on the engine.
The std prop can twist like a chew and snap clean in two, trust me I did it, so need a decent one making, the std, non CJ13 joints on the prop will break apart.
The most annoying bit though is the manifolds, most likely will need to dent it in around the steering shaft area, gearbox support can easily be made from the std sierra one and the std rover one with cut and shut.
Tacho can be altered for around £55 by speedy cables, can't remember what cable we used think it was either the std ford or std rover one fitted both ends ok, on a Lt77 box anyway, the change is slow so it is actually quicker 0-60 starting in 2nd gear and slipping a bit, pulling away normally in 2nd even with a 3.14:1 diff doesn't bother it at all.
The 3.14:1 diff was from a sierra mk1 diesel 2.3 estate.
tabetha
21-08-2010, 08:55 PM
#7
My bad I misread the coil bit I read it the other way round as it ballest coil into Sierra hence why I said either will work, the Sierras I have experience with are 12V ignition systems anyway, what I meant was 9V coil which can give same output as 12V so it saves energy.
An interesting read, the Rover V8 also came with the Borg Warner 35 this may be worth considering, this is why the P6 originally was auto as they diden't have a manual box avaliable to take the torque. They eventually strengthened the Rover 2000 box.
Martin
An interesting read, the Rover V8 also came with the Borg Warner 35 this may be worth considering, this is why the P6 originally was auto as they diden't have a manual box avaliable to take the torque. They eventually strengthened the Rover 2000 box.
Martin
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22-08-2010, 07:34 AM
#8
20K+ Super Poster.
They did indeed use the BW35, and not a bad box in it's time, later versions of RV8 have been fitted with ZF4HP22 and ZF4HP24 gearboxes as auto's in rangeys etc, these are awsomely strong boxes and can be converted to 2wd by using a bmw 850(etc) tail end, as mine was/is(still for sale!!), has shift kit, high stall convertor etc, this was built by John Lovegrove of ATP transmissions in bristol, at quite a few thousand £'s.
There are other box options, manual, such as MG 4 speed, or with laycock overdrive, borg warner T50, even the MOSS a real pain in the arse to fit but ace box, the BW35(auto) despite being a US design was made in the uk, where blmc had bought the rights to it, of the manuals I'd go for the manual with O/D always veiwed with suspicion but is actually a good box strength wise.
tabetha
There are other box options, manual, such as MG 4 speed, or with laycock overdrive, borg warner T50, even the MOSS a real pain in the arse to fit but ace box, the BW35(auto) despite being a US design was made in the uk, where blmc had bought the rights to it, of the manuals I'd go for the manual with O/D always veiwed with suspicion but is actually a good box strength wise.
tabetha
22-08-2010, 06:55 PM
#10
20K+ Super Poster.
It's my dad into the RV8, I like V8's but more SBC and SBF, parts are just stupidly cheap.
I was going to convert a 4i to V8, but my dad had always wanted one so sold the shell to him for £50, sold the SBF for £250, as it was missing many parts and unknown condition.
tabetha
I was going to convert a 4i to V8, but my dad had always wanted one so sold the shell to him for £50, sold the SBF for £250, as it was missing many parts and unknown condition.
tabetha
10-10-2010, 05:32 PM
#13
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. It is located on the fuel rail on the intake manifold. Remove the vacuum hose and look for signs of fuel if it is wet it is bad. Could also be your fuel pump getting weak. Try turning key on and off a few times before trying to start it.
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