turbo timer s2rs
cheers mate
what kinda wiring is there?
im guessing something along the lines of earth, permanent 12v, switched ignition 12v, cranking 12v?
any relays needed etc?
just wanting a brief idea thats all
what kinda wiring is there?
im guessing something along the lines of earth, permanent 12v, switched ignition 12v, cranking 12v?
any relays needed etc?
just wanting a brief idea thats all
7 wires on the one i have, only need 5 of them for it to function, the others are for speed/rpm etc monitoring.
Permenant 12v, auxiliary 12v, ignition 12v, earth and handbrake wire.
Permenant 12v, auxiliary 12v, ignition 12v, earth and handbrake wire.
Embassy No1 turbo timer in my S2...
Park car, spark up ciggy, enjoy smoke while turbo cools down, turn of engine.
the only problem with this type of turbo timer is it costs me around £120 a month and will proably give me lung cancer.
Park car, spark up ciggy, enjoy smoke while turbo cools down, turn of engine.
the only problem with this type of turbo timer is it costs me around £120 a month and will proably give me lung cancer.
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is their any that you can wire into alarms? im looking at a s2 at the minute and its got a clifford cat 1 alarm sounds like a good idea to have a timer on em!
http://www.baddesigns.com/timer.gif
one like that be ok lol
http://www.baddesigns.com/timer.gif
one like that be ok lol
You can use the alarm as a basic turbo timer. Use the programmable output to control a relay. VERY simple. Fairly sure things like that invalidate thatcham status, i know for a fact remote start does.
right i have pretty much won a timer on ebay now, what kinda effect will this wiring have on my clifford? im thinking about the immobiliser cutting the timer off etc
It won't affect your clifford at all, apart from the fact that you can't arm the alarm until the car has turned off anyway. If you disable the auto door lock feature u will be able to jump out straight away and lock the doors and when it switches off the immobiliser will arm. (obvio if you dont turn autolock off you return to an open car
)
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i've got a clifford concept 600 which has the programable outputs as mentioned above.
i believe all of the concept series (100, 200, 300, 400, 500, 600 avantguard) all have this feature, available as an option when installed by a pro. the instsaller can adjust the timing from 1 sec to 4 mins.
my mate used to install them for a living...
the wire to use is the gray/blue wire, wire 14 from the 24-pin connector plug. this needs to be set to timed (options - pulsed, latched, or timed) and wired to the ignition/switched live, so that when the option is selected (channel 7 on the 5 button master remotes, or the bottom left/headlight button on companion 4 buttom remotes), the wire powers up and keeps the ignition live, enabling you to turn the ignition barrel to off and remove the key.
once out the car you can then safely arm the alarm. all of the sensors will arm, doors, boot, bonnet, dual prox, tilt motion, etc. but, the immobilisor circuits will not be operated as they only kick in 30 seconds after the engine has stopped running. this is how it always works.
sit in your car with the engine running.. turn it off, and without arming it, you wait 30 seconds until the led flashes and the immobilisors kick in.
So, you car is full alarmed but not immobilised until the timer runs out. but no-one can nick it beacuse opening a door, getting inside, and driving off will trip the alarm.
if this helps and you want help to set the installer features (pulsed/latched/timed, and timer length) just pm me and i'll let you know.
i believe all of the concept series (100, 200, 300, 400, 500, 600 avantguard) all have this feature, available as an option when installed by a pro. the instsaller can adjust the timing from 1 sec to 4 mins.
my mate used to install them for a living...
the wire to use is the gray/blue wire, wire 14 from the 24-pin connector plug. this needs to be set to timed (options - pulsed, latched, or timed) and wired to the ignition/switched live, so that when the option is selected (channel 7 on the 5 button master remotes, or the bottom left/headlight button on companion 4 buttom remotes), the wire powers up and keeps the ignition live, enabling you to turn the ignition barrel to off and remove the key.
once out the car you can then safely arm the alarm. all of the sensors will arm, doors, boot, bonnet, dual prox, tilt motion, etc. but, the immobilisor circuits will not be operated as they only kick in 30 seconds after the engine has stopped running. this is how it always works.
sit in your car with the engine running.. turn it off, and without arming it, you wait 30 seconds until the led flashes and the immobilisors kick in.
So, you car is full alarmed but not immobilised until the timer runs out. but no-one can nick it beacuse opening a door, getting inside, and driving off will trip the alarm.
if this helps and you want help to set the installer features (pulsed/latched/timed, and timer length) just pm me and i'll let you know.
Originally Posted by snoozie76
i've got a clifford concept 600 which has the programable outputs as mentioned above.
i believe all of the concept series (100, 200, 300, 400, 500, 600 avantguard) all have this feature, available as an option when installed by a pro. the instsaller can adjust the timing from 1 sec to 4 mins.
my mate used to install them for a living...
the wire to use is the gray/blue wire, wire 14 from the 24-pin connector plug. this needs to be set to timed (options - pulsed, latched, or timed) and wired to the ignition/switched live, so that when the option is selected (channel 7 on the 5 button master remotes, or the bottom left/headlight button on companion 4 buttom remotes), the wire powers up and keeps the ignition live, enabling you to turn the ignition barrel to off and remove the key.
once out the car you can then safely arm the alarm. all of the sensors will arm, doors, boot, bonnet, dual prox, tilt motion, etc. but, the immobilisor circuits will not be operated as they only kick in 30 seconds after the engine has stopped running. this is how it always works.
sit in your car with the engine running.. turn it off, and without arming it, you wait 30 seconds until the led flashes and the immobilisors kick in.
So, you car is full alarmed but not immobilised until the timer runs out. but no-one can nick it beacuse opening a door, getting inside, and driving off will trip the alarm.
if this helps and you want help to set the installer features (pulsed/latched/timed, and timer length) just pm me and i'll let you know.
i believe all of the concept series (100, 200, 300, 400, 500, 600 avantguard) all have this feature, available as an option when installed by a pro. the instsaller can adjust the timing from 1 sec to 4 mins.
my mate used to install them for a living...
the wire to use is the gray/blue wire, wire 14 from the 24-pin connector plug. this needs to be set to timed (options - pulsed, latched, or timed) and wired to the ignition/switched live, so that when the option is selected (channel 7 on the 5 button master remotes, or the bottom left/headlight button on companion 4 buttom remotes), the wire powers up and keeps the ignition live, enabling you to turn the ignition barrel to off and remove the key.
once out the car you can then safely arm the alarm. all of the sensors will arm, doors, boot, bonnet, dual prox, tilt motion, etc. but, the immobilisor circuits will not be operated as they only kick in 30 seconds after the engine has stopped running. this is how it always works.
sit in your car with the engine running.. turn it off, and without arming it, you wait 30 seconds until the led flashes and the immobilisors kick in.
So, you car is full alarmed but not immobilised until the timer runs out. but no-one can nick it beacuse opening a door, getting inside, and driving off will trip the alarm.
if this helps and you want help to set the installer features (pulsed/latched/timed, and timer length) just pm me and i'll let you know.
The majority of alarm programmable outputs hold to ground to the best of my knowledge aswell
Originally Posted by safechav
Thats a crude way of doing it the outputs on alarms aren't designed to hold ignition circuits live, im surprised it hasn't burn't out
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