Series 1 overboosting even at standard boost, holding back not pulling like it should. Changed everything from fuel pump to air flow and metering unit to whole engine to power engineering stage 3 242bhp@ 21psi bought from friend. Help problem still there changed accumalator its just the same changed everything nobody knows please help seriously thinking about buying a vauxhall dont wanna do that. any ideas would be greatful !

 

Please tell exactly what YOU mean with overboosting and describe how does it hold back. Do you have a lambda-sensor or anything installed to check the fueling?

 

you sure its just not blowing the spark out????

What are the plug gaps???


also what hoses do you run, is one collapsing???

 

as scott said try the bottom hose from the metering unit to the middle of the turbo as they do get soft

 

its got samco hoses they are fresh. by overboosting i mean thats what it feels like when you nail it its very slow unusually slower than all my mates rst's and when you hit 4000rpms the car stops pulling if you hold the accelerator down then the rev counter drops to 0 and the car doesnt pull as soon as you let the pedal go the dump valve kicks in and the car carrys on running. i have no lambda sensor on the car at all could you recommend one and where id get it from thanks alot lads any other ideas gotta be something stupid changed almost everything in past 4 years. plug gaps are 0.7 cheers

 

Is the car shipped at all? Usually, what is ment by overboosting, is that the boost exceeds the allowed maximum value programmed in to the chip in the ESC-II unit. In a standard car this limit would be at around 0.7 bar. If the limit is exceeded for more than 1-2 seconds the ignition is cut completely, which results in a very abrupt loss of all the power. Also the tach would drop to zero. Is this the case?
If it's just blowing out the spark, the loss of power would be very different, as in the car coughing and hesitating.
If you wan't to install a lambda, you need to weld a boss for it to the down-pipe.

 

the car has a powerengineering chip installed it has unlimited boost the engine was in another car previously and run 23psi happily i have tried 3 standard brains an 2 chipped ones its the same with all?

 

I had a problem similar to this in my old S1 and it turned out to be the alternator not giving enough beef to the battery to keep a proper 12v + to the ECU's causing a masive misfire/banging/popping and mostly shite performance like you described.

 

you may be right nick ive got a bloody alternator problem aswell when my stereo and everything is on as soon as i turn my headlights on the batt light in dash glows dimly ive had new batt, alternator and recharge circuit help me what do you think cheers

 

There's obviously somethin wrong with the electrical system then, that needs looking at Check that its just when you turn on your lights that the battery light comes on, if so check all your connections to lights and also earths that they're not shorted with a mulltimeter. When the battery light is on that means the alternator cannot produce enough power to keep the system charged.

 

cheers nick i shall try it today and let you know

 

Check the voltage between the engine block and battery minus when the engine is running. It should be VERY near zero.