foi340

hi folks have a slight problem here my rs seems to cut out sometimes it will idle fine but if i give it a good rev when its idiling it wont go back to idiling it will cut out it will do this when i go to change gear to help cheeRS

SafeChav

That could be anything on that small amount of info, but as per usual it sounds like its either an air leak or something electrical is breaking down (like for instance the sensor in the distributor)

Stu @ M Developments

iTrader: (12)

Faulty dump valve is most common.

foi340

cheeRS guys for the info will take the dump valve of tonite see how i get on

turboman33

did it work m8 as my rs is doin the same replaced just about every damn thing possible if it did not work try replaceing the distributor thats what i am gona do

main_man_mini

Hi Guys can you please help me i have a mk3 rs turbo and it start for about 3 seconds then cuts out, can anyone please help me on the problem or guide me through this can this be the metering unit??? all help will be much appreciated thanks.

main_man_mini

Hi Guys can you please help me i have a mk3 rs turbo and it start for about 3 seconds then cuts out, can anyone please help me on the problem or guide me through this can this be the metering unit??? all help will be much appreciated thanks.

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

I don't know to much about MFI but seem to recall the metering unit causing these problems, sounds like lack of fuel, or poor cold start enrichment.

Martin

main_man_mini

Hi Martin Many thanks for the reply back, can you give me some tips on how to start testing these things to find the actual fault ??? it starts for seconds sounds all ok then cuts off then starts again then cuts off, where can i start?

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Hi,

As I say I don't know these cars intimatly nor have I ever owned one, so just going on what I have picked up, I would start by making sure there are no air leaks, if you have a slightest air leak this plays havok with the MFI system, this is why a loose dipstick or no oil cap causes problems. Does the car have a dump valve? Does it run ok when revs are applied?

Martin

main_man_mini

Hi Martin many thanks for your reply back i will look out for air leaks on all pipes and all other areas. The car has a Dump valve can there be a problem? also the car starts for a couple of seconds and cuts out it idles itself sounds all ok no revs applied hope this info helps to answer anything thanks Martin.

Regards
Mal

Stu @ M Developments

iTrader: (12)

Hi mate,
Have a read of this:
http://www.motorsport-developments.c...AF268_tech.pdf


Then this:
http://www.motorsport-developments.co.uk/tech_articles/FAF269_tech.pdf


Then this:
http://www.motorsport-developments.c...AF270_tech.pdf

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

You do defiantly have the correct D/V as RST has a special twin piston type? Yes it can cause a problem if it's leaking (I.E the diaphragm has split)?

Martin

main_man_mini

Hi Martin i will check all this today and let you no how it is thanks mate.

main_man_mini

Hi Guys i had the car running for 5 minutes yesterday but i had to hold the revs up if i didnt it will switch of it fires up after i give the metering unit a shake and the coil a shake a really good wobble then it fires up but to keep it on i have the hold the pedal down reving it if i let go it cuts out, what can be the problem ???

i have cheked all pipes no air leakes dipstick is right in also oil cap is closed when i was reving engine sounded really nice the dump valve was all good so all strong.

any help ??? much appreciated thanks.

chaffe

fuel pump relay only runs for five seconds unless it gets a tach signal from the coil. bridge out the reylay or replace it for a non tach one to see if this cures it. faulty reylay or tach wire broken

main_man_mini

Thanks pal i will check this what couler is the relay and where can i find it on the car near the metering unit??? so your saying take it of bridge it with a wire see if that works????

chaffe

purple, drivers footwell, bridge the two switched terminals, or just put a normal four pole relay in its place (pump will run with key on)

main_man_mini

thanks mate i will check this but i still dont understan how it fired up for a bit when i shake the metering unit and coil, so bridgeing the relay will just make it direct will that actualy solve the problem???

chaffe

no it will tell you if the problem excists with the reylay or the wiring, my guess would be the wiring if wiggling it cures it. Either run a new wire from the coil, or find the break and fix it. Its the green wire running to the dash.

focii dan nick

sound like the idle control valve... my focus had the same symtoms replaced it now works perfectly

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

So does it start again ok after you let it cut out or only if playing with the coil or metering unit? If not and it runs fine otherwise I.E you can drive it ok but it just won't idle by itself I should think you have an idle issue. IIRC I am sure RST'S don't have ISCV remember they are MFI not EFI! If it's revving ok I should think the fuel pumps fine, usually with the relay problem it won't start at all due to the faulty relay and hence no fuel pump! Again the green wire breaking usually results in a no spark situation as well!

Certainly do not bridge the relay as a solution, it's wired through a relay for multiple reasons, the main reason is due to the amount of power the pump pulls, if you use sub standard wire to bridge the two this will melt! Another reason is the pump will only run when the engine runs and so if you were to have an accident the pump will not switch off when the engine stops like the standard setup would!

Martin

chaffe

negetive, this system has NO idle control valve.

chaffe

thats correct, they do have an auxillary air slide though that is live off the fuel pump wire, which gradually closes as the car warms up, but this would be wide open at this temperature, and so not a problem

main_man_mini

Hi Guys reverting to your emails the car starts up when i mess around with the metering unit and coil give it a shake it fires up but only statys on if i hold the revs if i let go back to stage 1 wont start up have to go back and give a shake then would fire up again.

i will be checking all wires today the green one check if theres any breaks, other then that what else can it be casuing this???

By the way thanks Martin for the reply back.

What about the idle control???

chaffe

you saying if you disconnect the tach wire the coil does not spark? how come ive not had the tach wire connected on several cars ive had and they all run fine? certainly if you dissconnect the other wire going to the ecu, it will not run. and as for bridging out the reylay, there is nothing wrong with it! how else would you fault find the system, of course there are many tards out there that can set fire to things and hurt themselves, and if the OP falls into this catogory may i suggest he does not fault find anything, and gets someone else who wont kill themselves off of 12v to look at it.

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

I did not mention anything about getting killed from the power at all, what I was saying was the fuel pump should not be bridged as a permanent solution otherwise Ford would have done so in the first place! In my opinion it's a bodge rather than a fix of sorting the problem properly with another relay!
For the record more power does not dictate the severity of an electric shock as it's current that kills, I.E as one example the ignition system has many thousands of volts but would not kill you under most circumstances, where as mains power would!

What I meant was with re the green wire is the usual problem of it breaking resulting in no spark, in any case I don't think it's to do with the green wire at all due to the car being able to rev so must be recieving fuel and to do so the pump must be running this recieveing signal. If your shaking the coil and it's not just coincidence I would try another coil if you have/know someone.

Martin

chaffe

im glad we cleared that up, be more specific in future lol