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Technical discussion on "running in".

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Old Nov 30, 2005 | 03:13 PM
  #41  
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up and down the revs for about an hour once warm

then drain oil and go for it


Alex
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 11:58 AM
  #42  
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only a year old thread lol

i have a new cam kit in my engine that will need running in, it says to run the engine at 2krpm for 20 mins.

but, when the engine is not mapped, i guess it will have a base map to get it running, how would you then go about running it in?

just do a bit of live mapping while taking it fairly steady for a bit, then do as doug said??

its all new to me lol
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Old Dec 25, 2006 | 08:03 PM
  #43  
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I've tried quite a few different ways of running,


and found running in similar to what Doug said, but

Always warm up gently, not idleing. and fueling to be 14.2-15.0:1,
whilst at different times, checking everything.

30 minutes between 2500-3000 rpm,
0-50 miles, easy upto 3000rpm, changing the loads. no more than 25% throttle, Change oil.
50-200 miles, as above but to 3500rpm
200-300miles, 50% throttle, 4000 rpm, no boost.
300-400miles, as above but with boost
400-500miles, 50% throttle, 5000 rpm.
oil change,
500-1000miles, full throttle, low boost setting (20psi on my cossie), full RPM.
1000 + Full boost (35psi on my cossie).

Job done


The above way, has given me best results on CVH's and YB's, going by compressions, leak down test's, and longtivity of the whole engine.

i've tried 1000,500 etc ect of ploding around (like most places say) and rings never bed in correctly.
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Old Dec 25, 2006 | 08:05 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Fiecos Dan
I've tried quite a few different ways of running in,


and found running in similar to what Doug said, but

Always warm up gently, not idleing. and fueling to be 14.2-15.0:1,
whilst at different times, checking everything.

30 minutes between 2500-3000 rpm,
0-50 miles, easy upto 3000rpm, changing the loads. no more than 25% throttle, Change oil.
50-200 miles, as above but to 3500rpm
200-300miles, 50% throttle, 4000 rpm, no boost.
300-400miles, as above but with boost
400-500miles, 50% throttle, 5000 rpm.
oil change,
500-1000miles, full throttle, low boost setting (20psi on my cossie), full RPM.
1000 + Full boost (35psi on my cossie).

Job done


The above way, has given me best results on CVH's and YB's, going by compressions, leak down test's, and longtivity of the whole engine.

i've tried 1000,500 etc ect of ploding around (like most places say) and rings never bed in correctly.
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 08:37 PM
  #45  
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the engine builder we are using has told us when its built put it in the car drve it about relitivley mildly ( not like a grandad tho) for about 40 mins then bring it down for a rolling road set up. and thrash the bollocks off it. he said when they build race engines they give em a couple of minutes then go go johny bravo. if you need any more time then it aint been built properly. mind you these are race engines and the clearances are greater when cold so as they are at there optimum when being thrashed around a track.

if you get told to run them in for any real length of time they arn't confident in there own work and are just buying time.
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 09:04 PM
  #46  
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But race engines wont be expected to last 100k miles,

and like you said, the engine is build with larger tolerances.
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 02:16 PM
  #47  
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i built a engine for my mk1 astra turbo a few years ago started to run it in gently ,on the first weekend after rebuild thought a could hear it knock had about four hundred miles on clock and had only seen 3/4 throttle and 4000rpm.so thought its coming apart anyway so proceded to race a few a evo down our local prom ended up beating it and never looked back engine did over 15,000 hard miles untill it pulled the wishbone mount from the floor engine never used oil and never missed a beat ps the noise was paranoia and thrust bearing lol
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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 01:50 PM
  #48  
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start it up let it get warm (run in on cheap mineral oil crap about Ł5 for 5 litres)

go round and do a couple of laps upto about 50 miles using various revs and getting it into boost but not reving it tits off

come back change oil & filter for 10/40 normal stuff then do another 50 miles or so driving it a little harder and upto standard boost setting

The another oil & filter change fit 10/40 semi-syn oil run around like this another 100-150 miles

Then Final oil & filter change fit correct oil for engine & replace plugs

And then it just gets driven normally with full boost setting and with the 10+ engines i've built (3xYB, 4xC20xe, 2xC16se & 2xC20let) they all been spot on never used oil and as far as i'm aware the 2xYB are still running spot on and 400BHP+
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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 02:14 PM
  #49  
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the problem im gonna have with my engine is that its got new cams that need running for 20 mins at 2krpm, and of course new piston rings that you dont want to idle .

then there is the problem that there is no map on the car

do i just try and get it running as best as possible, then set the idel to 2krpm and just get in and drive it from the off and not let it dip to less than 2krpm for 2 mins?
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 01:45 PM
  #50  
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Garage19

Hi mate, not meaning to be funny, but do you LITERALLY only run your engines in for 6 miles? As step 7 is enjoy, so does that mean put decent oil in and treat it like normal? Surel you'd want to do atleast 500 miles below certain revs?
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 01:08 PM
  #51  
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When i was at RC we regularly used to put 700bhp cars on the dyno on running in oil

Never had a problem with them - 700+bhp engines doing 40-50,000 miles before a freshen up
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 10:05 PM
  #52  
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im in the same dilema as dan if anyone has any info? cheers
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 10:16 PM
  #53  
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If your mapper is any good he should be able to get it running at 1500-2000rpm with no load (standstill) very quickly to run your cam in. 5 - 10 mins of this should have your car up to temp and ready to begin the running in/mapping process under load.
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 10:16 PM
  #54  
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Ps. this is a proper old thread!
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 10:33 PM
  #55  
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A few years back I spent several Ł1000's on a hot 4,5 litre Rover V8 and ran it in like a coward as it had cost me so much money

Turns out it had been "Plateau" honed and needed plenty of load to bed the rings in, it burnt plenty of oil even though it went like hell

Mark
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Old Mar 30, 2008 | 07:57 PM
  #56  
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i understand the idea of putting load on the pistons to help bed the rings in and am i right in saying the rings bed in the other side by lots of vacuum pulling them up, ie downhill at 3000 rpm throttle shut. When i have finished my cozy im certainy not gonna poutle around.
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Old Mar 30, 2008 | 09:25 PM
  #57  
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so you ythink i should run the cam in whilst engines warming up?
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 04:10 AM
  #58  
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I know this thread is old but I enjoyed reading it. When I got my car and it was brand new, I trashed it from the moment I got it. I went to a rolling road day and I got more power than everyone else with the same engine on the day. One person had a bluefin, Decat, manifold and I still had a few more BHP than him and allot more torque. My engine wasn't even fully run in neither, lol.

My next car will be a diesel, how do you advise I run a diesel in?

Benni.
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 05:37 AM
  #59  
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why should a diesel be any different to a petrol benni?
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 07:42 AM
  #60  
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after reading this thread there are 2 things i think need addressing

the running in of the cams is one which has alreayd been asked, so this is the second one

i live in a city/town with lots of traffic and speed humps etc
how would i be able to run around for a few miles running the engine in at certain throttle positions as some people have suggested?

genuine question as i'm sure a lot of us would have the same problem

i also ran an engine in for 500 miles at part throttle, not going above 3k but keeping it up to that sort of rev range before changing gears
then it span a shell in the mains

and for benni, i ran my original van in for a good 800 or so miles, starting with 500 miles at certain throttles and uppipng the revs every 500 miles or so by another 500 rpms
when it came to giving the vans back at the ends of their leases, mine was the quickest by a huge margin, the 2 vans that we went up with were struggling to hit 95, whereas i was putting the foot down and seeing 110 easily
the red line and effective top speed for the vans was 112 as that's where the engine stopped reving
and this was on a diesel vito 111

but i knew i would be driving mine for 3 years on and off so i wanted to make sure it was well looked after
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Old Sep 19, 2008 | 01:14 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Garage19
Ps. this is a proper old thread!


Indeed, But I just enjoyed reading it
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Old Sep 24, 2008 | 12:38 AM
  #62  
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