Dave Henshall

from the group buy SpeedyG organised for teh replacment dial kits for escos', i thought i'd write a quick step by step guide to fitting them for the record.

Firstly, why?

Here are a picture of all my dials in the day,,, ok you think what wrong with them..?





Until its night and they look like this when illuminated





So, first you need to remove the banana pod set , flick off the trim that says cosworth and this exposes 3 screws, there is a 4th screw in the top that needs a plastic cap removing with a scribe or silmilar, this will bring the clcks with it, you need to pull of trhe pipe for teh boost gauge,and teh 2 multiplug connectors.

Now remove the steering wheel,, (nb: you can do it with it in place - but ive found for the literal 2 mins it takes to get off it will save yuo this in struggling over/through it later.) You need to keys in teh ihnotion to remove it once the hornpush it flicked out and the 22mm bolt in the centre is undone.)

While everyting is still inplace, switch the ignition on and let the needles settle for a minute, take a picture or note them very carefully as this is where yuo need to put them back on later.


Remove the clock surround, 2 screw at the top of it and a good tug and out it comes, this reveals the 4 screw holding the actual clock set in place. With these out you have to just jiggle it until there is enough room to get your hand down the back to ditch off the speedo cable, the remove the 2 multiplugs and the 2 bullets connectors for the illumination.

move to a quiet clean place, you will need a fork, a torx driver, a small terminal driver, some clean cloths and some solvent cleaner.

Flich the 4 clips from around teh main bibicle to remove the perpex front. undo the 6 torx screws in the back, some are covered with printed circuit so you need to cafully lift it out the way to access them.



The banana pod has 4 scres in tha back which when undone allow the gauges to come away from the perpex also.

I started with teh smaller ones first, using a fork, under the pointers, pry off the pointers. Then peel off the original faces...


Now you need to thouroughtly clean the perspex front of the clock, i used some solvent based degreaser called zero-tri, but any would do i suppose.

You will end up with nice clean front ready to stick you new face to like this...


Now this may sound a bit anal, but GO AND WASH YUOR HANDS!!!

i made this misatake yeasr ago fitting white dails in my 4x4saphh, you stick the new face on and leave a dirty oily thumb print in the middle. I would reccommend washing your hands EVERY time you are needing to tough the new faces,, might be ott, but youve paid good money for these and dont want to fcuk them up witha mingy finger .

Line up the new face and stick it on...


I pressed the face to the back quite firmly and rubbed it allonver through a cloth so as not to mark the face.

Connect the multiplug back onto the gauge, turn the ignition on and leave it for a minute, the refit the needles, notice the new boost gauge has a +2 bar reading , this needle can be fitted at 0 before this, but now you can refit the other 2. a good firm push , and tada!


Repeat the process for the other 2 faces in the main binicle, you neede to pry the plastic clip away down teh side of the outer 2 to remove them. You will notice also that teh fuel/temp face hs a longer wire on it, this is beacuse the wire needs to bend back on itself to connect up to the original connector which is in a slightly different pac than the original one.

Here is the rev counter and speedo removed, showing the inverter which converts the 12VDC to 114VAC to excite the faces of the dial and make them glow.

You need to remove the stops on these 2 and nore again where the pointers stop , remove them with the fork again. Once the new ones are back on and assembled, refit the pointers , note the red mark on teh mph face to line up the pointer as your new face goes to 180mph.

Again refit them to the car with the front off and the ignition on to set the fuel &temp pointers to where they should go as per the others.


Turn off ignition, check that they all settle , ie they DO move.

Rebuild the fronts, and reasseble the dash, not forgetting to connect evertything back up.

Then once done check out the clean non blotchy new faces



Job done, took about 2 hours, and keep those oily finger away from them!!

Dave Henshall

the duplicate pic should have been this one...

turbinator

why your hiding your total mph driven on the first pics on the old set..

and later on it shows anyway ?

Just curious

Dave Henshall

doh, was supposed to hide them all - never mind

THE RADMAN

iTrader: (2)

interesting post dave, i could have done with this a yr ago,i like the fork idea, never thought of that one

Speedy G.

iTrader: (1)

Nick, what did you use then m8?

Very interesting post Dave.
Have you allready been out and test the accuracy of them gauges?

Dave Henshall

not yet, will report on that asap though....

Dave Henshall

and here is the pic of the inverter, dont know why that got missed either...?

THE RADMAN

iTrader: (2)

[quote="Speedy G."]Nick, what did you use then m8?quote]

a spoon,lol, no , i used my fingernails, some of the needles took some getting off as well, geert pm me your e-mail adress as i changed to ntl a while back and lost all of them

Speedy G.

iTrader: (1)

[quote="THE RADMAN"]PM sent m8.

L3 COS

i have recently fitted a set of these and noticed the ones in the centre of the dash are not quite as bright as the main clocks,is this the way they are? or could i possibly have a dodgy set??
any feedback appreciated,thanks.

Dave Henshall

mine are the same brightness,

could be a non matched set...?

THE RADMAN

iTrader: (2)

should all be the same ,mine are,they are a lot brighter than the standard ford ones