i keep a spare set of everything plugs secors you name it after a service i keek the old stuff for back up in the boot but problem i got now i got all the crap in the boot back on as i had a missfire that turned out to an ecu problem cars running mint cant be assed to change it all back over i dont no what it is with these yb but condensation you wouldnt believe i just put a new exhaust on last week and the water pissing out of it i stainless welded everything together ive left a small pinhole in the down pipe the amount of water that dribbles after i turn the engine of if i didnt no better i would of thought i got head gasket probs some of these modern cars you see it spraying out the back no wounder plugs dont last especially cheap ones ive mothered a set of halfords ones in a couple of winters starting up and short journeys with less than a 1000 miles on them

 

plugs foul up from poor tuning/running. And as said, it definitely isn't helped with the Cossie running such cold plugs. Just seems so bizarre they run 9's, when even Jap or other cars making same or more power would be 6's or 7's.
Only in extreme cases would they be 8's, and almost never 9's

 

i dont no much about the tunning side of the cossies i suppose if you tried a hotter plug it probably give pre ignition or det i cant understand where all the water comes from its like some fukers got a hose going through the intake like you said running cold i put super unleaded in it would be intresting to see other comments about this or maybe its an antiquaited fuel injection system i think more modern systems run higher pressure after all the system was desighned forty years ago

 

It's just condensation, but yes some do have a lot.

And EFI decades ago runs the same pressure as basic systems do today. If anything, older mechanical injection ran higher sometimes. DI is a different matter.

 

Have you taken it out for a decent run yet and if so is it now running with no issues?

 

Going to take it out tonight if I get a chance and see how it is on a run.

 

Good weather for it, hope it is all ok.

 

Started fine and idled smoothly for 30 secs then cut out. Won’t start but the fuel pump isn’t priming so I’m thinking must also have a loose connection on one of the sensors I changed, maybe CPS which is why the pump is no longer priming.

It’s not showing any error codes though. If I unplug the CPS it shows the 1 + 1 code fine so think it’s something other than the CPS. This car is really starting to piss me off now 😡

 

The pump will prime on key on regardless of any sensors if the ecu is alive and healthy ( and associated wiring etc for the pump )

To fix things, you need to understand how they work and check/test, instead of throwing parts at it

This is cheap and covers Marelli

And of course this resource, but the Haynes does cover it well and printed paper is always handy. And it's cheap and fortunately still available to some degree.

 

Thanks. Sure I’ll get to the bottom of it but it’s just another thing that takes time. The summer will be over before I’ve even done a mile in this bloody thing!

 

isn’t it the other way round that a hotter plug is actually cooling the engine as it acts as a heat sink…pretty sure that is the case on 2 strokes anyway, when a 2 stroke makes more power you go up a number to help cool the engine.

 

Nothing like that.

Quite simply a hotter plug runs hotter, it's irrelevant to engine cooling. Only plug temperature itself. But a hotter plug in the chamber may be more prone to detonation....but compared to most engines, 9 is bonkers cold.

I've run other 4cyls close to 1000hp and wouldn't use 9's. But obviously Ford/Cosworth felt the need for such cold plugs for some reason.

 

After an hour of pulling out wiring I found the fuel relay and the 20amp fuel had blown. Obviously something has caused it to blow but at least found out why it cut out.

 

the relay blew ??

The pump should only be drawing maybe 8-9A...so definitely should not be blowing any fuses at 20A.

 

It was the 20a fuse attached to the relay that had blown. The relay seems fine. Wondering what caused it to blow though.

 

Excessive current is the only thing. You need to determine how much current the pump is drawing in case there is a pump or wiring problem

 

how odd that a hotter plug cools on a 2 stroke then. (According to a 2 stroke tuning book I read by Stan Stevens)

 

Ngk spark plug site says this: The spark plug works as a heat exchanger by pulling unwanted thermal energy away from the combustion chamber, and transferring the heat to the engine's cooling system. The heat range is defined as a plug's ability to dissipate heat.

it doesn’t differentiate 2 or 4 stroke though on that page???

I can see how a 2 stroke head would transfer the heat to the cooling system.

 

And so if a hotter plug cannot dissipate the heat from the chamber.....it runs hotter with higher risk of detonation/pre-ignition. Hence it's hotter.

For someone to say a hotter plug is cooler on any engine makes no sense.

 

dont get to excited over this jimbo the wireing on these are old where the pump is the wireing goe up through the boot floor from the pump to a innersia switch thats in the boot the spare wheel sits on the switch and keeps it activated if i remember correctly rip the switch out and by pass it they get rusty and fukered peugeot use a similar switch that is allot simpler and nothing to do with the spare wheel they have a re set button in the middle its there for if you get hit from behind it triggers the switch and shut the current supply to the pump any of the early pugs have them 1990s 2000 on them there under the bonnet there about two inches square on the cossie the wireing can go bad on the bit thats exsposed from the pump to were it goes up to the boot floor the rest goes up through the inside of the car via the rear pannal what i did with mine was i ran a new wire from the fuel pump relay under the carpet back to the pump some nice befey stuff and a seperate earth from the pump straight to the bodywork inside the car the ecu controls the pump and the pump gets no current going to it untill the engine is actually being cranked over i havent got the inersia switch anymore at all im not saying you should do this as well i will eventually put one in place what i did was so simple just follow the wire back from the relay under the dash i think its the black wire with the green stripe im sure its the feed but double check a heavier wire will be better it makes the system more reliable and prevents issues like you had what some folk have done is patched a volt meter into the fuel pump wireing with long tails so the volt meter can be seen when your driving take the car out and beat the holly mother of fuk into it and make sure theres no voltage drop at the pump some folks were getting less than 6volts when when diong this very enjoyable task whitch means they were going dangerously lean on fuel which means youll be beating the holly mother of fuk into your wallet for a set of new pistons and a fuking rebore if your lucky the fuel pump is live when the ignition goes on as it primmes but the other side of the fuel pump relay isnt until cranking as if i remember the signal comes from the cps that the ecu controls when i was trying to trace this i couldnt understand why it was dead

 

paragraphs, grammar....they all help

 

The thing is most Sapphire Cosworth's are now 30+ years old and the original wiring is now probably going to start to wear out and give problems. I had new engine wiring loom, new fans loom and new fuel pump looms put in mine as I had an intermittent electrical fault which could not be identified and once the the new looms went in it fixed it straight away. Also you can get an upgraded earth kit as again good earthing is vital.

 

your not the first to say this i need to make an effort

 

the saff cossie fortunately has ninety percent of the wireing inside the car for the fuel pump.as far as classic cars go theyve got more electrics than your average classic that went before it. when you consider before the cossie was the great rs2000 most of the wireing ran the lights and the loom was almost the same size as your finger. it doesnt help having a shit fuse box though

 

PMSL - Hurts my eyes.

 

Kindness and emotional intelligence do too.

 

Exactly.

I don't even care if the paragraphs etc make sense....but when it's a huge pile of text mashed together on a screen, it literally does hurt your eyes trying to read it ( hence if it's like that, I never do. )

As for the other comment, get stuffed.

 

The fuse box on a 2wd Saff like mine was notorious for melting the fuse holder for the fans, I had to have a separate new fuse holder put in mine which fixed the problem.

 

you got away lightly. mine was the same but also the headlights.while my m8 was at it he uprated the wireing to take better headlight bulbs

 

Spent this morning checking all of the ECU feeds. All sensors within voltage and resistance ranges.

The only anomaly I found was the ignition module (pins 24 and 25) on ECU was showing 7500 ohm. Normal range should be 1000 to 1500 so way out of range.

Could the ignition amp be causing my problems?

 

resistance checks are usually completely pointless.

Do you actually have a good spark when it will not start ? Do you have fuel being injected when it will not start ?

 

as allready said. when its not starting is there still fuel spraying out of the injectors and all plugs sparkimg. these are just basic process of illumination checks that will tell you what part of the vehicle you need to be having a closer look at.an old trick is spray some easystart into the air filter its a two handed job. take the air filter out and let the engine sniff it while cranking the engine over. be very carefull you dont over do it. if it fires it means the ignition system is ok and its fuel related

 

Hi, with fresh plugs it starts and idles but is really rough and won’t rev. The plugs are sooting up really quick so must be over fueling.

map sensor and ECT as well as all of the other sensors are all in range of normal volts and ohms with exception of the ignition amp which is way out of range (7500 ohm) compared to nominal 1000 to 1500 ohms.

 

ive got a spare one if you want to send me a stamped adress envolope or jiffy bag. or give these people a ring there cossie specialist in devon there probably the best. the owner was the workshop manager at motorsport developments for a long time nobody no,s more about the cossie.there so freindly he gave me a beginers self tuning guide over the phone recently. he must of been on the phone to me for half hour i ended up buying a ecu of them. tell him the problem and ask if he,s got somthing there to fix it that you can buy of them. there called auto dynamix spelt like that there in devon 01626362692. he will diagnose it on the phone but make it clear that you want to buy somthing of them to fix it. him and stuart at md are the best. they are the cosworth gods. but i cant remember what mateys called at auto dynamix

 

Cheers, thanks for that. I was about to ring MSD tomorrow and see if they think it could be the amp. Its an MSD guide that listed the operating resistance and I note they sell new amps for £50 so if they thought it could be that I’d buy from them. I’ll keep autodynamics in mind as well though as they sound good so thanks for the recommendation.

 

somebody els said ohms testing is a waist of time. in the grand scheame of things it can be. but having such a low value you could be on to somthing there. good work

 

...Ask them if they are still selling IAW RP lab software..That one is worh having to find faults

 

any luck jimbo

 

Had some bad news last Monday and haven’t done anything else of the saph. I’ve lost motivation at the moment as got a lot on my plate so haven’t done anything on it this week. Thanks though for everyone’s advice and will have another crack at it at some point over the summer.

 

sorry to hear you had some bad news