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still trying to get to bottom of why charge cooler pump won’t work, local engineer tuner has said the escorts were run off a boost sensor on the inlet manifold
Please fix your bodged map sensor pipe before you blow it up.
Mark
mark impossible to do it goes to a relay and then into the loom which is covered so can’t find it but looks like CORTINA has identified it for me! Thanks
also map sensor? Are you talk about the tie wraps on the black hose? Can you id what you mean so I can rectify thanks
mark impossible to do it goes to a relay and then into the loom which is covered so can’t find it but looks like CORTINA has identified it for me! Thanks
also map sensor? Are you talk about the tie wraps on the black hose? Can you id what you mean so I can rectify thanks
mark impossible to do it goes to a relay and then into the loom which is covered so can’t find it but looks like CORTINA has identified it for me! Thanks
also map sensor? Are you talk about the tie wraps on the black hose? Can you id what you mean so I can rectify thanks
russ
Stop messing around with what you have start again.
Buy a 7psi pressure switch wire to new relay and have it coming on with boost. Or just wire to switch and have on all the time.
If you have a good quality pump run it all the time if it was the cheap crap type they used to sell have it on pressure.
Stop messing around with what you have start again.
Buy a 7psi pressure switch wire to new relay and have it coming on with boost. Or just wire to switch and have on all the time.
If you have a good quality pump run it all the time if it was the cheap crap type they used to sell have it on pressure.
Mark
just want to get what’s fitted working, Do you know what psi the standard is? And more importantly is it wired to anything else? Ie Ecu or something?
i suspect the original is faulty as it’s a new pump and new relay
When I used to fit them the pressure switch turned on at next to nothing. So use anything above 1psi.
Mark
mark I’m assuming I can put a small amount of pressure against the sensor and measure the Resistance to prove if it’s working?
i suspect it’s not fired from here though as there is continuity between the relay and one side of the sensor which I assume is earth but not the other (measured on the wire) which I suspect means it isn’t linked to the relay and thus fired from something else?
Your will be only running the relay trigger off the ignition.
As long as the charge rad is working ok it should cool enough.
Depending on what you are doing why don't you ditch the charge cooler and go for a 500 size intercooler?
it’s because I just wanted to get what’s fitted working, I bought it as an investment it only comes out on hot days and I’d be surprised if it did 500 miles a year!
not keen on spending thousands on upgrades when it won’t get used