Did you get the ecu that was on Ebla until earlier today ? Was watching that.

What loom did you get ?

 

Yes got the one off eBay, I think I got a good deal, the same guy is selling the looms. I bought the engine loom off him as well, he still has the fusebox loom and dash loom but as it’s going into a fiesta I didn’t think I’d need it.

 

 

Turbo oil returns

 

Thanks, I need to take the sump off to do this and I need to get arp conrod bolts whilst it’s off.

 

So a little update.

I wonder why my vid was pulled from YouTube ? Anyway

The end of last year I pulled it all to bits. The sump was weeping, prety common on the focus due to the heat of the cat. New sump from a crate engine was bought and the sump drilled and tapped to take an an10 / jic hydraulic fitting.



The head came of as well to fit St170 valve springs to the inlet so it will hold boost. The block was drilled and tapped to take an an8 / jic hydraulic fitting for the Rs oil breather drain. The block was then given a dam good clean and a coat of paint.



Being near the cat the block breather was very rusty and full of carbon so a new one was found, again from a crate engine.

 

So oil drain pipe work was made up for the turbo and breather using steel hydraulic fittings.

 

In the first vid I tested it out with my “B” grade Rs parts and a Td04 but I also have a pile of what I call my “A” grade Rs parts including a very nice refurbished Gt25 and a really clean thermostat sandwich plate for the turbo coolant take off.

 

So as not to upset the neighbours I made up a silencer. Looking on eBay I found a pair of new Triumph factory cans removed at the dealer for an upgrade. The inlet pipe looked large but on delivery they had reducers. So I chopped the ends of the cans and took the first baffle out. I tigged a plate on each end with a 2.5 inlet. I have them firing opposite ways to try and spread the noise. This turned out to over kill as fuel pump is noisier.

All the parts where cleaned up and all built back up. Another Ł50 in fluids latter and it’s ready to make fire.

 

And a little vid of running it upto temperature.

 

Jobs still to do,

The engine light is on due to the canister purge valve being absent.

Tidy up and wrap the wiring.

Wire up the fan to the relay so the ecu can switch the fan on automatically.

Wire up the charge cooler pump to the relay.

 

With all my projects I like to share the pinouts for the ecu should some one else want to have a crack. This is to give those people that are interested in running a turbocharged zetec engine on a budget a head start

well here you go.

Mk1 Focus Rs ecu code 6MYD.

WARNING I WILL NOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY LOSSES OR INJURY RESULTING FROM USE OF THE INFORMATION CONTAINED WITHIN.

The key to using the ecu is the Pat's immobilizer. You must get at least one key with chip that is paired to the ecu.

Ford 104 pin Mk1 6MYD Focus Rs Ecu plug. C401.





Missing numbers have no connection or are not used on the Ecu.

Pin number -- colour -- function.



13 orange/black--DLC pin 13 modal program.
15 blue/black-- DLC pin 10 scp-.
16 grey/orange-- DLC pin2 scp+.
17 black/white – high speed fan relay.
19 grey/orange -- Pats TX signal.
20 black/blue -- Injector 3 switched earth.
21 white/red -- crankshaft position sensor +.
22 brown/rd --crankshaft position sensor -.
24 black/yellow -- earth.
25 black/red -- earth.
26 black/orange – coil pin 1.
27 black/red -- start inhibit relay.
28 white/violet – telemetric.
31 black/yellow -- Power steering pressure switch. N/C to earth.
35 white/red— HSO2 1 pin 4.
36 brown/blue -- MAF pin 4.
37 white/violet Iat in maf pin1. ( inlet air temp)
38 white – Head coolant temp sensor pin 1.
39 white violet – Iat in elbow. ( inlet air temp)
40 green/black -- fuel pump monitor.
42 black/orange -- PATS Led earth.
49 blue/red—DLC pin 14 can-.
50 grey/red—DLC pin 6 can+.
51 black/yellow -- earth.
52 black/green -- coil pin 3.
53 white/green -- Pats RX signal.
54 black/white -- fuel pump relay earth.
55 red-- KAM perm live.
56 black/blue—evap pin 2.
58 white/blue -- Vehicle speed Sensor pin 2.
59 grey – Alternator pin 1.
60 white -- HO2S 1 signal
62 white/black--Barometric sensor pin 3.
63 white/green -- Map sensor pin 2.
64 white --clutch switch N/O.
68 black/blue – engine cooling fan.
70 black/white -- injector 1 pin2.
71 green/yellow -- switched 12v.
72 blue—alternator pin 2.
75 black/white -- Intercooler pump relay earth.
76 white/violet -- Cam position sensor pin 1.
77 black/yellow -- earth.
83 green/yellow -- idle air control valve pin 2.
85 brown/white -- camshaft position sensor pin 2.
86 white/red ---- A/C High pressure switch N/O.
88 white/blue -- MAF pin 5..
89 white -- throttle position sensor pin 2.
90 yellow -- 5v Voltage Reference (5v out from ecu)
91 brown -- sensor common.
93 black/yellow -- HO2S pre cat heater control pin 2.
95 black/orange -- injector 4 pin 2.
96 black/yellow -- injector 2 pin 2.
97 green/yellow -- switched 12v.
99 black/red – boost solenoid pin 1.
100 black/blue – HO2S post cat heater control pin 2.
103 black/yellow -- earth.

 

You will not bypass the Pats immobilizer but it is very good with a few extras like a guard over the ecu plug and another over the obd2 port so just use it.

 

while I am at it. The dash pin outs.

 

Top work. Really interesting posts you make.

Dunno if you remember sending me a couple of wiring plugs for speedo sensor? My mate is now building a controller to take the signal from the Focus speed sensor to then operate a motor that will spin the Escort speedo cable so I can retain the standard clocks.

 

 

I am about to have a huge clear out so thought I best finish up this thread.

I’ve got a new project to start when I’ve made some space.

 

Should be interesting. I think I would have tried transplanting an early Focus Speedo into the Escort cluster.

I would love to see your solution as it would work in my current project that is running a set of Sierra clocks.

 

The new project, and I really do plan on fitting this lol.

Ford 3.0 v6 St220 engine.



Made rwd and slapped on the Mazda Rx8 5speed.



Using a very nice ttv flywheel and helix clutch and an adapter plate.




All run on the Oem ford engine management and squeezed in a kitcar.

 

 

what're you fitting that to? or is this another upgrade for the engine trolley?

 

I am into my kitcars aswell.

It’s a Ford but with out the rust. Unfortunately that includes the 1.8 pinto for the time being.

I’ve promised myself I would enjoy it a little before taking it to bits lol.
And turbo Zetec has been done loads.

 

looks cool! i'd very much like to have a go of one round a track - but i very much doubt my gut will fit behind the steering wheel

 

You would be surprised.

 

 

Easy way is the full Rs loom.

I would get an St170 engine loom. Move some pins in the plug to match the Rs spec.

I would then remove your 60 pin loom and graft the st loom in.

Cheers

 

you make it sound so simple! haha

 

First start now it’s been converted to rwd for my kitcar.

 

What handbrake cables you using plz