How the hell do you get the exhaust to clear the front prop and the chassis? I have a mongoose exhaust and is getting very annoying having it either hitting the prop or the chassis rail, what has everyone else done to overcome this?

 

Either mount solid engine mounts and uprate your exhaust mounts, or weld in about 4-5 cm of pipe in the dp

 

What turbo?

 

already have collins mounts and powerflex exhaust mounts, its just so close to both, I get some clearance but it seems to move as it warms and cools

 

just a t34.63

 

its also very close to the bottom of the gearbox as it crosses over, will a 2wd exhaust fit?

 

I have had this problem with a T4 fitted to a 4x4 using a 2wd manifold and Mongoose exhaust, the cure was to remove about 20mm from the downpipe as it comes out of the turbo and then put that 20mm band back into the downpipe as it goes downwards.

Or just book it in and we will sort it for you!

 

The problem is that the dp is a little shorter on the 4wd cars because the mounting of the turbo is lower on theese manifolds.
Maybe a 2wd would fit i dont know, personaly think it is better just to weld a short bit in on the dp.
And yes, the exhaust expands when it get hot.

 

thanks martin, I will get it up in the air tomorrow and see if it looks like this will cure mine.

 

as said above

a 2wd downpipe won't fit one 4x4 you have transfer box in the way.

 

forgot about the transfer box thought about crushing it a bit but it seemed a bit of a bodging way to sort the problem

 

it is not a good way thats why I edited it.

I've seen a fair few done that way though, or just 2wd it

 

My info was based on you using a 4x4 downpipe with a 2wd manifold on a 4x4 car, please don't tell me the downpipe is a 2wd one?

 

no its as you said, 4x4 downpipe on 4x4 car with 2wd manifold

 

Cool, then my advice stands

 

its down to your make of exhaust I think - I had a 4x4 3dr with a 4x4 magnex and 2wd exhaust manifold and it fitted a treat without any mods at all, plenty of room down past the abs, transfer box and arb

 

agreed, but unfortunately im going to have to stick with it as my money is needed for other items like a decent gearbox, i'll get it cut and welded as
Martin suggests

 

put a 4x4 manifold back on there

 

why would I want to do that?

 

magnex systems split in to 2 smaller pipes at the bottom of the dowpipe which would give you more space.

If you cut and weld it make sure you've got a quite a bit of overlap over the join as the engine moving will snap it if there's not enough. It happened on my brothers car when we did his.

 

You can butt weld stainless pipe using a MIG welder with steel wire and not have problems with fracture in the future, I have done this!

 

you're probably better with a welder than me

 

I marked the down pipe with a straight line down it, then cut it and added a 75mm length of pipe so the down pipe was 25mm longer with 25mm over lap at each end. Pipe is then strong with over lap and no risk of any nasty penetration affecting flow. I used a good mig welder and operator (me)
Make sure that your straight line is still straight and everything will align correctly
Mine has been done 10yrs on my 3dr 4x4 and never given any probs

 

i had this prob with my old saph when fitting 2wd manifold and t35 we just had prob with downpipe hiting rollbar we spun pipe slightly and bent it a small amount in place

 

mine just fit's can just squeeze a piece of paper either side of the down pipe, it took me a while to position it tho

 

because it FITS simple really

 

Because the 4x4 manifold is not restrictive at the max power out put that the turbo you currently have on the car can give....

You don't need to change to a 2wd one until you exceed 450bhp...

 

damm mike,, i wanted him to come back and say but it would loose power

 

Agreed, Im fully aware of this,my 4x4 manifold was cracked and seeing as im going to be popping a t4 on it over winter and aiming for over 450bhp then I though I may as well put the 2wd manifold on at the same time as changing the engine (which i have just done) I would have modded the downpipe before it went in if I had realised how close it was going to be.

Anyway downpipe off and ready for some cut and shut tomorrow evening, you can see a nice bit of rubbing on it

 

I have the same set u on my sapphire with a mongoose exhaust.
i slackened all the clamps off as well as the nuts on the turbo.
centrallised the downpipe between the chassis rail & prop then tighened it all back up does not catch now

 

if I let mine sit in its natural position it hits the prop, if i move it away and theres not much room to do so and then tighten it up it will miss the prop, however as soon as I put the car in my drive the center box rubbs on the ground and moves the system a little and it just ends up hitting the prop again so an adjustment is definately the way forward

 

u need to undo all the clamps & it will work but only just

 

as I said above it does until I need to put the car in the drive then the center box hits the ground and moves the system, not far but enought to take up the tiny gap thats there at the moment, and unfortunately I need to go in and out of the drive every time I use the car so its kind of a loosing battle just trying to center it and hope it will stay there when it only has anout 0.050" on each side

 

All sorted thanks for the advice Martin

Chopped it up







All welded back together



purchased some new wrap, some new front prop bolts and a new mikalor clamp and some stainless tie wraps for the exhaust



re wrapped



Fitted and pleanty of clearance