teamSPB Corsa build - 2 AA Arsenal 10's, 4th order bandpass, AudioSystems front end
16-07-2011, 10:52 PM
#1
PassionFord Post Troll
Thread Starter
teamSPB Corsa build - 2 AA Arsenal 10's, 4th order bandpass, AudioSystems front end
Its that time again where our Corsa is getting yet another rebuild! Previous installs include 2 RF 8's and 1 CDT 12...now its time for 2 Ascendant Audio Arsenal 10's in a fourth order bandpass box...
Heres the previous installs....
The car in question;
The plan for this install is;
Pioneer 8200SD headunit
Rockford Fosgate Power 6.5" components (for now)
Audiosystems XION160.2 or XION100.2 midrange amp
Audiosystems XION 280.2 bass amp (1480wrms or there abouts)
2 x Ascendant Audio Arsenal 10" subs, custom S4 coils
Chord company Rumour speaker cable
KnuKonceptz Fleks power cable throughout
Processor - unknown yet, but leaning towards either the Helix/Brax DSP or the Mosconi 6to8
Components will be replaced with either the AudioSystems XION 165's or the Helon 165's or the Ascendant Audio Havoc 6.5" components
Subs will be in a 4th order bandpass box that I will be trialling out and see what I think of them
Let the build commence!!!
teamSPB
Heres the previous installs....
The car in question;
The plan for this install is;
Pioneer 8200SD headunit
Rockford Fosgate Power 6.5" components (for now)
Audiosystems XION160.2 or XION100.2 midrange amp
Audiosystems XION 280.2 bass amp (1480wrms or there abouts)
2 x Ascendant Audio Arsenal 10" subs, custom S4 coils
Chord company Rumour speaker cable
KnuKonceptz Fleks power cable throughout
Processor - unknown yet, but leaning towards either the Helix/Brax DSP or the Mosconi 6to8
Components will be replaced with either the AudioSystems XION 165's or the Helon 165's or the Ascendant Audio Havoc 6.5" components
Subs will be in a 4th order bandpass box that I will be trialling out and see what I think of them
Let the build commence!!!
teamSPB
05-12-2011, 05:49 PM
#2
PassionFord Post Troll
Thread Starter
First up on the install list was a Pioneer MVH 8200 headunit (from memory)...
Its a GREAT little headunit...bit fiddly with the rotary command and takes a while getting used to it...but a good little headunit nontheless!
HOWEVER, the problem with this headunit, is, just like the JVC AVX's, the unit itself sticks out too far...I HATE this with a passion, and had I of known this prior to buying the unit, it may have swayed me to something else...me being me...modified the fascia to allow the headunit to sit further back lol!
Out with the fascia
Bit of chopping and glueing
MUCH better!
Its a GREAT little headunit...bit fiddly with the rotary command and takes a while getting used to it...but a good little headunit nontheless!
HOWEVER, the problem with this headunit, is, just like the JVC AVX's, the unit itself sticks out too far...I HATE this with a passion, and had I of known this prior to buying the unit, it may have swayed me to something else...me being me...modified the fascia to allow the headunit to sit further back lol!
Out with the fascia
Bit of chopping and glueing
MUCH better!
05-12-2011, 05:51 PM
#5
PassionFord Post Troll
Thread Starter
The subs being used in this application are the Ascendant Audio Arsenal 10s
Reason for 10s was purely for the fact we can do more with them within the confines of a Corsa boot - bandpass, sealed, ported etc etc
Reason for Arsenals, due to their SQL properties...they are an AWESOME smooth sounding driver (just like every other Fi and AA driver lol)...but they are very efficient, very smooth and drop pretty low with their 18mm of xmax each way!
In their new home
Specs on the box - 0.4cuft sealed sections and 2.4cuft ported section tuned to approx 65hz. So a 3:1 ratio. 49sqin of port area
More tomorrow!
Reason for 10s was purely for the fact we can do more with them within the confines of a Corsa boot - bandpass, sealed, ported etc etc
Reason for Arsenals, due to their SQL properties...they are an AWESOME smooth sounding driver (just like every other Fi and AA driver lol)...but they are very efficient, very smooth and drop pretty low with their 18mm of xmax each way!
In their new home
Specs on the box - 0.4cuft sealed sections and 2.4cuft ported section tuned to approx 65hz. So a 3:1 ratio. 49sqin of port area
More tomorrow!
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05-12-2011, 08:43 PM
#8
Glennvestite
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Ive alwayeds liked big sound systems its just the cars you normaly find them in that i dont like.
Just a quick question bassboy. Ive got a fli sub in its box in the boot and ive got a amp screwed to the back. The wires from the sub are copper and silver wire.Does the copper wire go to the positive (+) terminal on the amp and the silver on the negative terminal.
Im just wanting to know cause my sub does sound very bassy..
Just a quick question bassboy. Ive got a fli sub in its box in the boot and ive got a amp screwed to the back. The wires from the sub are copper and silver wire.Does the copper wire go to the positive (+) terminal on the amp and the silver on the negative terminal.
Im just wanting to know cause my sub does sound very bassy..
06-12-2011, 03:43 AM
#10
PassionFord Post Troll
Thread Starter
Cheers guys, should be cracking on with this today...and I need to update this thread even more so lol!
BIG explanation about 4th order bandpass boxes coming up soon
RO13, nowt wrong with the car mate, I have my Focus RS to rep for the Ford world, the Mrs Corsa for the Vauxhall world, my Previa for the Jap world, and a whole load of VAG's for the VAG**a world LOL!
BIG explanation about 4th order bandpass boxes coming up soon
RO13, nowt wrong with the car mate, I have my Focus RS to rep for the Ford world, the Mrs Corsa for the Vauxhall world, my Previa for the Jap world, and a whole load of VAG's for the VAG**a world LOL!
06-12-2011, 03:45 AM
#11
PassionFord Post Troll
Thread Starter
Ive alwayeds liked big sound systems its just the cars you normaly find them in that i dont like.
Just a quick question bassboy. Ive got a fli sub in its box in the boot and ive got a amp screwed to the back. The wires from the sub are copper and silver wire.Does the copper wire go to the positive (+) terminal on the amp and the silver on the negative terminal.
Im just wanting to know cause my sub does sound very bassy..
Just a quick question bassboy. Ive got a fli sub in its box in the boot and ive got a amp screwed to the back. The wires from the sub are copper and silver wire.Does the copper wire go to the positive (+) terminal on the amp and the silver on the negative terminal.
Im just wanting to know cause my sub does sound very bassy..
In either case, if you want to make sure the phase of the sub is correct, then I would recommend connecting a 9v battery to the pos and neg terminals of the sub...if you have wired it correctly, i.e positive to positive, negative to negative, correctly...then the sub will pop outwards...if you have wired it incorrectly, then the sub will go inwards
Make sure the amp is disconnected or not powered on when doing this test.
Let me know how you get on
06-12-2011, 06:16 AM
#12
Glennvestite
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Hi bud i havent got a clue what type of sub it is lol.
I bought the Fli sub/box/amp off a lad i used to work with 3 years ago.He bought it from halfords. The original amp stopped working so i took it out then used another amp which seemed to work great then this also stopped working,so now ive got a spx amp which is sopose to be 500 watts but it just doesnt seem to be as loud.
I bought the Fli sub/box/amp off a lad i used to work with 3 years ago.He bought it from halfords. The original amp stopped working so i took it out then used another amp which seemed to work great then this also stopped working,so now ive got a spx amp which is sopose to be 500 watts but it just doesnt seem to be as loud.
06-12-2011, 07:23 AM
#13
Glennvestite
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Ive came to work today and noticed my sound system seemed quiet again.I checked my bass box/sub and its not working.The amp is powered up.Its got the same fault as before.Now im thinkin could the sub be causing the fault.
Do you want me to start to pm you so that i dont fill this thread with shite about my sound systen.
Do you want me to start to pm you so that i dont fill this thread with shite about my sound systen.
06-12-2011, 07:58 PM
#14
PassionFord Post Troll
Thread Starter
Still do the pop test Glenn as that will dictate if the coil has blown...also pull the sub out to make sure it isnt something simple like a loose cable
But feel free to drop me a PM
But feel free to drop me a PM
06-12-2011, 08:00 PM
#16
PassionFord Post Troll
Thread Starter
4th Order bandpass boxes
As you can see, we have decided to go down the 4th order bandpass box route in our recent Project in the Corsa. Alot of people don’t understand this type of box and I have got alot of questions in regards to what they are, how they sound, how do you spec one etc. So I thought I would put this little bit of information together for you.
So what makes a 4th order bandpass different to a typical box? Well, lets start with what a 4th order band pass actually consists of. There are 2 parts of a 4th order box. Most boxes that you would have seen would have been regular sealed or ported boxes. A 4th order band pass box is special in the sense it combines both sealed and ported sections.
Both sealed and ported boxes have both merits and drawbacks in their own right. A sealed box will give you a very tight, precise and accurate type of bass. Hard hitting in most cases. Their sound quality is second to none and are able to provide, arguably, the best sound quality possible from a subwoofer. The fall back being they don’t tend to like producing very low frequencies with much authority. Also their output can be questioned especially when compared to the likes of ported boxes.
Ported boxes give you a tremendous amount of output, on average equating to +3db in comparison to a sealed box. They can also be tailored to suit your musical needs, in the sense, they can be ‘tuned’ to a certain frequency in which they will excel and perform best around. For example, if you like extended low frequency bass, you may want to tune the box to 30hz or below. If you like hard hitting bass, you may want to tune to around 35-40hz. Around these tuned frequencies, audio levels excel greatly above those of a sealed box, meaning these are often the preferred boxes of the streetbass and SPL guys. Having all the output does not come without its downsides; delayed response (time delay), port noise (possibly) and the size of the box. Due to the size of the box, coupled with the physics behind the port, there will be a slight delay with the bass. Port noise becomes an issue when ports are too small. The size of the box is generally twice the size of a normal sealed box.
Now, a 4th order couples these two types of boxes together. Yes, thats right, there are BOTH sealed and ported sections within this ‘one’ box. You are coupling the tight, precise and accurate bass of a sealed box, coupled with a high output ported section. There is another slight twist with these boxes, where the bottom end of the frequency range is not dictated entirely by the tuning of the port. What dictates the bottom end of the frequency range, is mainly dictated by the size of the sealed chamber/s. The bigger these chambers, the more extended the frequency will be. However, the downside will always be, the bigger you go, the more efficient the box will be, hence the lower the power handling of the subwoofer/s will be. With using a smaller sealed chamber, even though the downside will be a slight lack of bottom end extension, using more power into the driver, will mean the bottom end can be restored with no other alterations.
So how big do you make the sealed chamber/s? Thats a good question, however, there is no set answer. This is generally dictated by trial and error. You can make an educated guess depending on power available, the bandwidth you want the subs to play and what subwoofers are being used.
As a rough guide, a good starting point is generally basing the sealed chambers on how big the speaker manufacturer recommends them to be, which will vary from subwoofer to subwoofer. However, as a general rule, I tend to use the following;
8inch sub : 0.2-0.5cuft
10inch sub : 0.3-0.6cuft
12inch sub : 0.5-1.5cuft
15inch sub : 1.5-3cuft
I tend to lean towards the smaller sizes when I can counteract the size with power. However, if bottom end extension is what the aim goal is, then I aim for either the middle or the bigger end of the scale. The choice of driver will generally dictate howmuch power we can drive into the speaker.
The ported section of the box is generally decided upon on based on a ratio of the sealed section. The box going into the Corsa is based on a 2:1 ratio. The sealed sections combined give a total of 0.8cuft, and the sealed section is 2.4cuft after displacements.
Generally, greater the ratio, the smaller the bandwidth (we will cover bandwidth later) but greater the output, the smaller the ratio, the greater the bandwidth but at the expense of reduced output. For example, a box of a 5:1 ratio will play with great output and with great efficiency but the bandwidth will be small. A box of a 1:1 ratio, will play just like a regular sealed box and will not have very many benefits over a regular sealed box.
The other consideration on the ported section is the tuning of the port. For example, if you tune a box to 30hz, the subwoofer will generally ‘unload’ around 25hz or thereabouts (obviously subwoofer dependant). With a 4th order band pass box, the port tuning frequency will dictate the low pass filter. What this means is say you tune to 65hz, the box will not play bass ABOVE 65hz and will generally unload. Again, I did say there is a twist with 4th order band pass boxes!
The box in the Corsa has been specc’d as below;
0.4cuft per sealed chamber
2.4cuft tuned to 65hz on the ported chamber
The last consideration on the ported section will be port area. With band pass boxes, you want as much port area as you can get and try to get the port as short as you can. Luckily, with the port tuning being so high, generally the port lengths are short, and the shorter the better! The Corsa has been built with 49sqin of port area, with equates to approx 20sqin of port area per cuft. You want to be around this general area per cuft on the external port. You can go even bigger which will aid output. Just make sure you don’t go smaller than around 15sqin per cuft otherwise you will choke the output.
The final thing I guess to cover is how the 4th order band pass boxes sound...well, its safe to say you DO get the benefits of both the sealed and ported boxes. You get the tightness and response of the sealed section, and you get the awesome output of the ported section. You also get the roll off of a sealed box which is believe to be around a 12db slope compared to a 24db slope for a ported box. This means rather than the subwoofer unloading itself pretty quickly below the tuning frequency as it would in a ported box, it will continue to remain loaded for even lower frequencies.
Compare the graphs below, there is one for a sealed box, a ported box, and a 4th order band pass box. The frequencies are shown at the bottom and the left hand side shows the slope (rate) of how quick or slow the bass will role off at the higher or lower frequencies and where the boxes will peak etc.
Looking at the sealed box, it will remain at 0db until the box hits a relatively high frequency (generally around the 50-60hz mark), before it starts to roll off at a 12db slope. Due to this relatively shallow slope, the subwoofer will still be able to play the lower frequencies (~30hz), albeit, at a lower volume than say what a ported box tuned to 30hz will do.
Sealed box
Ported box
4th Order band pass
Looking at the ported box, it will remain at 0db until the box hits its tuning frequency where it will raise to + xdb, however, around 5hz below this frequency, the roll off will be pretty sharp at 24db which will be like falling off a cliff!
Now, going back to what I said earlier about the ported section acting as a low pass filter, whatever you tune the ported section to, will have a sharp roll off ABOVE this frequency.
What does this mean? Look at the 4th order band pass graph, you get the 12db roll off on the bottom end of a sealed box, and you get the 24db roll off on the top end of a ported box. These frequencies between the -3db points on the lower and upper frequencies, is called the band pass frequency. These are the frequencies that will play in harmony through the band pass box.
One thing worth noting, it is easy enough to put something on paper, but building a band pass box will require ALOT of precision building AND ALOT of testing testing and more testing. You have to ensure everything is built with mm precision and then be able to change certain parts of the box to fine tune it so you can tailor the sound the box produces.
If your going to try building one....test test test! One final thing....GOOD LUCK!
teamSPB
As you can see, we have decided to go down the 4th order bandpass box route in our recent Project in the Corsa. Alot of people don’t understand this type of box and I have got alot of questions in regards to what they are, how they sound, how do you spec one etc. So I thought I would put this little bit of information together for you.
So what makes a 4th order bandpass different to a typical box? Well, lets start with what a 4th order band pass actually consists of. There are 2 parts of a 4th order box. Most boxes that you would have seen would have been regular sealed or ported boxes. A 4th order band pass box is special in the sense it combines both sealed and ported sections.
Both sealed and ported boxes have both merits and drawbacks in their own right. A sealed box will give you a very tight, precise and accurate type of bass. Hard hitting in most cases. Their sound quality is second to none and are able to provide, arguably, the best sound quality possible from a subwoofer. The fall back being they don’t tend to like producing very low frequencies with much authority. Also their output can be questioned especially when compared to the likes of ported boxes.
Ported boxes give you a tremendous amount of output, on average equating to +3db in comparison to a sealed box. They can also be tailored to suit your musical needs, in the sense, they can be ‘tuned’ to a certain frequency in which they will excel and perform best around. For example, if you like extended low frequency bass, you may want to tune the box to 30hz or below. If you like hard hitting bass, you may want to tune to around 35-40hz. Around these tuned frequencies, audio levels excel greatly above those of a sealed box, meaning these are often the preferred boxes of the streetbass and SPL guys. Having all the output does not come without its downsides; delayed response (time delay), port noise (possibly) and the size of the box. Due to the size of the box, coupled with the physics behind the port, there will be a slight delay with the bass. Port noise becomes an issue when ports are too small. The size of the box is generally twice the size of a normal sealed box.
Now, a 4th order couples these two types of boxes together. Yes, thats right, there are BOTH sealed and ported sections within this ‘one’ box. You are coupling the tight, precise and accurate bass of a sealed box, coupled with a high output ported section. There is another slight twist with these boxes, where the bottom end of the frequency range is not dictated entirely by the tuning of the port. What dictates the bottom end of the frequency range, is mainly dictated by the size of the sealed chamber/s. The bigger these chambers, the more extended the frequency will be. However, the downside will always be, the bigger you go, the more efficient the box will be, hence the lower the power handling of the subwoofer/s will be. With using a smaller sealed chamber, even though the downside will be a slight lack of bottom end extension, using more power into the driver, will mean the bottom end can be restored with no other alterations.
So how big do you make the sealed chamber/s? Thats a good question, however, there is no set answer. This is generally dictated by trial and error. You can make an educated guess depending on power available, the bandwidth you want the subs to play and what subwoofers are being used.
As a rough guide, a good starting point is generally basing the sealed chambers on how big the speaker manufacturer recommends them to be, which will vary from subwoofer to subwoofer. However, as a general rule, I tend to use the following;
8inch sub : 0.2-0.5cuft
10inch sub : 0.3-0.6cuft
12inch sub : 0.5-1.5cuft
15inch sub : 1.5-3cuft
I tend to lean towards the smaller sizes when I can counteract the size with power. However, if bottom end extension is what the aim goal is, then I aim for either the middle or the bigger end of the scale. The choice of driver will generally dictate howmuch power we can drive into the speaker.
The ported section of the box is generally decided upon on based on a ratio of the sealed section. The box going into the Corsa is based on a 2:1 ratio. The sealed sections combined give a total of 0.8cuft, and the sealed section is 2.4cuft after displacements.
Generally, greater the ratio, the smaller the bandwidth (we will cover bandwidth later) but greater the output, the smaller the ratio, the greater the bandwidth but at the expense of reduced output. For example, a box of a 5:1 ratio will play with great output and with great efficiency but the bandwidth will be small. A box of a 1:1 ratio, will play just like a regular sealed box and will not have very many benefits over a regular sealed box.
The other consideration on the ported section is the tuning of the port. For example, if you tune a box to 30hz, the subwoofer will generally ‘unload’ around 25hz or thereabouts (obviously subwoofer dependant). With a 4th order band pass box, the port tuning frequency will dictate the low pass filter. What this means is say you tune to 65hz, the box will not play bass ABOVE 65hz and will generally unload. Again, I did say there is a twist with 4th order band pass boxes!
The box in the Corsa has been specc’d as below;
0.4cuft per sealed chamber
2.4cuft tuned to 65hz on the ported chamber
The last consideration on the ported section will be port area. With band pass boxes, you want as much port area as you can get and try to get the port as short as you can. Luckily, with the port tuning being so high, generally the port lengths are short, and the shorter the better! The Corsa has been built with 49sqin of port area, with equates to approx 20sqin of port area per cuft. You want to be around this general area per cuft on the external port. You can go even bigger which will aid output. Just make sure you don’t go smaller than around 15sqin per cuft otherwise you will choke the output.
The final thing I guess to cover is how the 4th order band pass boxes sound...well, its safe to say you DO get the benefits of both the sealed and ported boxes. You get the tightness and response of the sealed section, and you get the awesome output of the ported section. You also get the roll off of a sealed box which is believe to be around a 12db slope compared to a 24db slope for a ported box. This means rather than the subwoofer unloading itself pretty quickly below the tuning frequency as it would in a ported box, it will continue to remain loaded for even lower frequencies.
Compare the graphs below, there is one for a sealed box, a ported box, and a 4th order band pass box. The frequencies are shown at the bottom and the left hand side shows the slope (rate) of how quick or slow the bass will role off at the higher or lower frequencies and where the boxes will peak etc.
Looking at the sealed box, it will remain at 0db until the box hits a relatively high frequency (generally around the 50-60hz mark), before it starts to roll off at a 12db slope. Due to this relatively shallow slope, the subwoofer will still be able to play the lower frequencies (~30hz), albeit, at a lower volume than say what a ported box tuned to 30hz will do.
Sealed box
Ported box
4th Order band pass
Looking at the ported box, it will remain at 0db until the box hits its tuning frequency where it will raise to + xdb, however, around 5hz below this frequency, the roll off will be pretty sharp at 24db which will be like falling off a cliff!
Now, going back to what I said earlier about the ported section acting as a low pass filter, whatever you tune the ported section to, will have a sharp roll off ABOVE this frequency.
What does this mean? Look at the 4th order band pass graph, you get the 12db roll off on the bottom end of a sealed box, and you get the 24db roll off on the top end of a ported box. These frequencies between the -3db points on the lower and upper frequencies, is called the band pass frequency. These are the frequencies that will play in harmony through the band pass box.
One thing worth noting, it is easy enough to put something on paper, but building a band pass box will require ALOT of precision building AND ALOT of testing testing and more testing. You have to ensure everything is built with mm precision and then be able to change certain parts of the box to fine tune it so you can tailor the sound the box produces.
If your going to try building one....test test test! One final thing....GOOD LUCK!
teamSPB
12-12-2011, 05:07 PM
#19
PassionFord Post Troll
Thread Starter
Small update today...
As the Rockford components have now been sold, we have finally got round to wiring up the new components...
The Rockfords have made way for a pair of Gladen Audio (Formally AudioSystems) XION 165's
I didnt take any pics of the components but they are the same as the ones I used on the cheap Corsa build...
The subs are now also here
2 x Ascendant Audio Chaos 10's....2012 versions....they are MEGA!!!!! Cheap for what they are! Just some quick pics off my phone;
teamSPB
As the Rockford components have now been sold, we have finally got round to wiring up the new components...
The Rockfords have made way for a pair of Gladen Audio (Formally AudioSystems) XION 165's
I didnt take any pics of the components but they are the same as the ones I used on the cheap Corsa build...
The subs are now also here
2 x Ascendant Audio Chaos 10's....2012 versions....they are MEGA!!!!! Cheap for what they are! Just some quick pics off my phone;
teamSPB
23-12-2011, 07:57 PM
#21
PassionFord Post Troll
Thread Starter
Been cracking on with this for the last 2 days...
Looks like most of the system has been decided upon;
Alpine x305s headunit
Alpine H701 processor
Gladen Audio (AudioSystems) XION 165 components
SPL Dynamics ICE 150.2
2 Ascendant Audio Chaos 10's
SPL Dynamics ICE 1500d
teamSPB custom box
Silent Coat Sound deadening
Purple LED's
Black perspex
XION's installed
Old Rockford tweeters...need to take a pic of the new tweeters
More of the subs
Side panels being built
teamSPB
Looks like most of the system has been decided upon;
Alpine x305s headunit
Alpine H701 processor
Gladen Audio (AudioSystems) XION 165 components
SPL Dynamics ICE 150.2
2 Ascendant Audio Chaos 10's
SPL Dynamics ICE 1500d
teamSPB custom box
Silent Coat Sound deadening
Purple LED's
Black perspex
XION's installed
Old Rockford tweeters...need to take a pic of the new tweeters
More of the subs
Side panels being built
teamSPB
23-12-2011, 08:29 PM
#24
PassionFord Post Troll
Thread Starter
Not really dojj...the box is specc'd a bit 'different' in the sense that its MASSIVELY efficient...it doesnt need big power in order to get loud...we could have made the box smaller if we could substitute more power...
The other reason the boot looks 'tight' is where the bass amp is positioned...it does take a bit of extra space however, boot space is not of priority in this build this time round
The other reason the boot looks 'tight' is where the bass amp is positioned...it does take a bit of extra space however, boot space is not of priority in this build this time round
, what happened to the 4th order bandpass box you built earlier? 
24-12-2011, 06:25 PM
#28
Glennvestite
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Top work matey.
I fitted them front componets and crossovers and used a new set of tweeters which are mint.There top quality.I also repositioned the front speakers.They were fitted to the doors but now ive fitted them to the door panels.They sound louder too.
I fitted them front componets and crossovers and used a new set of tweeters which are mint.There top quality.I also repositioned the front speakers.They were fitted to the doors but now ive fitted them to the door panels.They sound louder too.
28-12-2011, 02:50 PM
#29
PassionFord Post Troll
Thread Starter
Small updates on the fascia...going for a gloss black finish to see how it looks...it might not stay gloss and may go the route of flocking it to match the a-pillars, while the gloss black matches the black perspex in the boot...
teamSPB
teamSPB
28-12-2011, 02:50 PM
#30
PassionFord Post Troll
Thread Starter
Small update time...
Got the vinyl for the trimming...backed with 6mm of foam for a spongy feel...im impressed with the material and will be considering it for future installs for sure!
I appear to be missing the photo where I have made the cut outs for the subs etc lol
The above was just a test fitting and making sure it works as it should as I havent had the chance to try it until now...
Got some coilovers for it as well from Cheemo (thanks mate!)
Gave them a quick clean
There has been alot of posts about fitting these kits to Corsa's so heres how I done it...
Clamp spring
Remove top nut
Remove top bush
Dont need this bit
Put the top hat on the coilovers
This is why you dont need the bit mentioned above
Remove this bearing with a long socket/extension/screw driver etc
Place in the top hat
Put the rubber bush back
Put the top mount from the engine side back on
Now the lows dont only come from the bass!
Currently debating whether or not to go even lower!! Im sure I can get another 5-10mm out of it if not a tad more...Possibly 10-20mm
As the front wheels were off, it would have been rude not to have given them a clean...out came the Wolfs Chemicals Deironizer (didnt use any other product but this and a jet wash!)
More tomorrow hopefully which will include fitting the rear shocks, starting a new pretty/flush panel, making amp covers, and decide where to put the amps and processor itself!
teamSPB
Got the vinyl for the trimming...backed with 6mm of foam for a spongy feel...im impressed with the material and will be considering it for future installs for sure!
I appear to be missing the photo where I have made the cut outs for the subs etc lol
The above was just a test fitting and making sure it works as it should as I havent had the chance to try it until now...
Got some coilovers for it as well from Cheemo (thanks mate!)
Gave them a quick clean
There has been alot of posts about fitting these kits to Corsa's so heres how I done it...
Clamp spring
Remove top nut
Remove top bush
Dont need this bit
Put the top hat on the coilovers
This is why you dont need the bit mentioned above
Remove this bearing with a long socket/extension/screw driver etc
Place in the top hat
Put the rubber bush back
Put the top mount from the engine side back on
Now the lows dont only come from the bass!
Currently debating whether or not to go even lower!! Im sure I can get another 5-10mm out of it if not a tad more...Possibly 10-20mm
As the front wheels were off, it would have been rude not to have given them a clean...out came the Wolfs Chemicals Deironizer (didnt use any other product but this and a jet wash!)
More tomorrow hopefully which will include fitting the rear shocks, starting a new pretty/flush panel, making amp covers, and decide where to put the amps and processor itself!
teamSPB
28-12-2011, 03:47 PM
#33
PassionFord Post Troll
Thread Starter
The top unit is a processor...it gives me the following features:
31-band EQ - can EQ left and right together or independant from one another
Full Time alignment
Active crossovers for running the system fully active
Media expander
etc etc
Its just taking the adjustability to the next level...instead of having just bass and treble adjustment...I have 31 bands of 'bass and treble' adjustment.
Running active will allow me to bin the crossovers from the components and let me run whatever frequencies I want to each speaker.
Time alignment will allow me to bring everything in phase by the time it hits the driver and/or passenger...there will be a delay in every speaker in the car in order for the sound to hit the desired listener at the same time...this will also help shift the sound stage to the left and right as desired depending on what we are using the system for.
It connects to the Alpine headunit via a Ai net cable...obviously requires its own power source. It has a 'brain' so to speak, which everything plugs into. So I have wired it as:
Alpine X305 > Alpine H701 processor via Ai net > upto 8 channels of RCA outputs (front, rear, centre and sub)
Next stage for the audio will be to use a 4 channel amp which will allow me to run full power to the tweeters and midrange speakers with the frequencies of my choice....tweeters will be getting 110wrms and the midrange 225wrms per side
teamSPB
31-band EQ - can EQ left and right together or independant from one another
Full Time alignment
Active crossovers for running the system fully active
Media expander
etc etc
Its just taking the adjustability to the next level...instead of having just bass and treble adjustment...I have 31 bands of 'bass and treble' adjustment.
Running active will allow me to bin the crossovers from the components and let me run whatever frequencies I want to each speaker.
Time alignment will allow me to bring everything in phase by the time it hits the driver and/or passenger...there will be a delay in every speaker in the car in order for the sound to hit the desired listener at the same time...this will also help shift the sound stage to the left and right as desired depending on what we are using the system for.
It connects to the Alpine headunit via a Ai net cable...obviously requires its own power source. It has a 'brain' so to speak, which everything plugs into. So I have wired it as:
Alpine X305 > Alpine H701 processor via Ai net > upto 8 channels of RCA outputs (front, rear, centre and sub)
Next stage for the audio will be to use a 4 channel amp which will allow me to run full power to the tweeters and midrange speakers with the frequencies of my choice....tweeters will be getting 110wrms and the midrange 225wrms per side
teamSPB
29-12-2011, 06:08 PM
#35
PassionFord Post Troll
Thread Starter
07-03-2012, 01:47 AM
#39
PassionFord Post Troll
Thread Starter
Been a bit quiet updating this recently but all is good!
We still currently have the SPL D 1500d running the show but I can tell the subs want more...
But to start off where I left off...the coilovers have been fitted fully now and definitely make the car look ALOT better than it did before!
The standard battery also had a hard time over the last few years so I have now replaced it with a XS Power D6500 which was a snug fit lol!
Battery tray
The SPL D midrange amp has been sold and currently replaced with a Mosconi AS300.2 for temp...
The new amps are on order and will be here shortly...bass duties will now be powered by a B2 Mono mkII amp (2200wrms), while the front end will be going active with a B2 Audio Quattro 4 channel amp...
Ill get some more details of the amps shortly
teamSPB
We still currently have the SPL D 1500d running the show but I can tell the subs want more...
But to start off where I left off...the coilovers have been fitted fully now and definitely make the car look ALOT better than it did before!
The standard battery also had a hard time over the last few years so I have now replaced it with a XS Power D6500 which was a snug fit lol!
Battery tray
The SPL D midrange amp has been sold and currently replaced with a Mosconi AS300.2 for temp...
The new amps are on order and will be here shortly...bass duties will now be powered by a B2 Mono mkII amp (2200wrms), while the front end will be going active with a B2 Audio Quattro 4 channel amp...
Ill get some more details of the amps shortly
teamSPB
07-03-2012, 01:47 AM
#40
PassionFord Post Troll
Thread Starter
Heres how the car is currently sitting pretty...not bad me thinks!
Nice and low!
I briefly mentioned earlier we will be using B2 Audio amplifiers in the car now and will change the front setup and go active (still on the Gladen Audio components)...
The front amp will consist of a B2 Audio Quattro amp. This is a 4 channel amp with some 'different' power outputs...its been designed for active systems hence the power outputs...
Power @ 4 Ohm: 2 x 110 + 2 x 225 watts
Power @ 2 Ohm: 2 x 165 + 2 x 310 watts
Power @ 1 Ohm: 1 x 330 + 1 x 620 watts
We will therefore be feeding the tweeters 110wrms and the midrange 225wrms per side.
Atleast we can make full use of the H701 processor!
On the bass side, we will be using a B2 Audio Mono mk2. This has just been released and is a set up from the old Mono that was available, power has gone up from 1800wrms to 2200wrms which should power the Chaos' just right!
Power @ 4 Ohm: 1 x 700 watts
Power @ 2 Ohm: 1 x 1300 watts
Power @ 1 Ohm:
1 x 2200 watts
It is SERIOUSLY impressive already...I cant wait to see what the system will do when running full power!!
Also gives me a chance to try out my DD-1 as well lol
Nice and low!
I briefly mentioned earlier we will be using B2 Audio amplifiers in the car now and will change the front setup and go active (still on the Gladen Audio components)...
The front amp will consist of a B2 Audio Quattro amp. This is a 4 channel amp with some 'different' power outputs...its been designed for active systems hence the power outputs...
Power @ 4 Ohm: 2 x 110 + 2 x 225 watts
Power @ 2 Ohm: 2 x 165 + 2 x 310 watts
Power @ 1 Ohm: 1 x 330 + 1 x 620 watts
We will therefore be feeding the tweeters 110wrms and the midrange 225wrms per side.
Atleast we can make full use of the H701 processor!
On the bass side, we will be using a B2 Audio Mono mk2. This has just been released and is a set up from the old Mono that was available, power has gone up from 1800wrms to 2200wrms which should power the Chaos' just right!
Power @ 4 Ohm: 1 x 700 watts
Power @ 2 Ohm: 1 x 1300 watts
Power @ 1 Ohm:
1 x 2200 watts
It is SERIOUSLY impressive already...I cant wait to see what the system will do when running full power!!
Also gives me a chance to try out my DD-1 as well lol