redwizz

i'm using 20 swg (0.9mm) for the body panels, floors, inner wings etc and 16 swg (1.6mm) for repairing the chassis rails and anything that needs a bit more strenght.

Thanks

redwizz

This week has been spent working on the floor pan of the RS. After removing the surface rust from the floor pan and chassis rails we finally got down to some solid steel. This was then treated with a rust treatment, the odd hole patched and then etched primed ready for the stone guard. Next was to start on the passenger floor pan and inner sill. Unfortunately the inner sill and front floor repair panels were brought with the view to repair the floor rather than rebuild (i.e. the repair panels that are designed to be fitted over the seat rail) but like life things change so we have to make the most of what we got lol.

First I flatten out the flanges of the inner sill and front floor repair panels that were meant to fit around the seat rail and removed the old seat rail from the car. Next I pinned the inner sill to a length of box section to give the panel some rigidity then G clamped it to the A post and rear quarter and started welding the cut out.



Made a patch to fill in the hole in the inner sill.





Next I adjusted the front floor pan to fit, trimmed the bulkhead side and extend the swages in the floor pan.




should get some more pictures up next week…

lees rs

cant beleave how rotten it was and you have brought it back to life good work mate brings back memorys when i had my mk2 1600 sport wish i still had it

redwizz

It was a bit of a rust bucket but the chassis rails are sound (thankgod lol). A big learning curve for me but a least i now know most of the places these cars rust lol

Thanks

Martin

stevenhayley

nice work mate

steve

redwizz

Thanks steve i'm looking forward to seeing the old girl back in one piece

stevenhayley

yeh i bet you are carnt wait till mines back on the road lol

steve

whizzisat114

iTrader: (2)

Do you butt/overlap the joints?

Moonstone Steve.

iTrader: (2)

Great going there m8, another RS saved

Steve

mk2 escort boy

iTrader: (1)

+1

stevenhayley

i butt my joints mate

steve

redwizz

Quote:

Originally Posted by whizzisat114

Do you butt/overlap the joints?

It all depends on the repair to be honest. 90% of the repair work done on this RS is butt welded but there are places where I wanted to keep the joints looking factory so some are overlapped and stitch welded in places where I couldn’t get my spot welder in. i.e. where the bulkhead side shields meet the A post.

I don’t want to open up a can of worms here but in my opinion if your just repairing a car to get it through its next mot then its quicker to overlap but when you’re restoring a car to its former glory its best to butt weld.

24vcossiemat

proper quality work there mate. well done, look forward to seeing more!

turnover

i know who to call if i need one doing in the future ,top work fella well done ,

whizzisat114

iTrader: (2)

Sound advice m8
Your foing some inspirational work on this car.
David

martin24uk

Would you not be quicker building one of these from scratch
alot of work but lots of Superb work been done so far
Keep it up mate and more pics !!!

redwizz

thanks fellas

redwizz

your not wrong there lol

thanks

stevenhayley

+1 totally agree

whizzisat114

iTrader: (2)

Hi there how do you use the yellow clamps (are they spring loaded / magnetic? )
What are they called?
They look like you have to drill a pilot hole then push them in and they hold your panel till taked in then after there taken out you plug mig the holes up ?


Cheers David

cutch

iTrader: (1)

Thats some fabrication skills you have there mate. well impressed! Wish i could do the same.

redwizz

basicly you drill a hold through both panels and insert the skin pin and screw it up. Think of it as an removable rivet. Once the panel is where you want it and tack welded in remove the skin pin, weld in the panel and plug the hole with a bit of weld.

I have, shall we say acquired a few over the years so i have a nice collection. I had a quick look on ebay and found these.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/10-X-1-8-SCREW-SKIN-PINS-AIRCRAFT-TOOLS-NEW-/160586904369?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2 563b9b331

a bit pricey but the pictures should give you an idea how they work

redwizz

Thanks mate

mk1van

TOP WORK ON THIS SHELL...LOOKED LIKE IT WAS DOOMED.....sorry about the caps ......

redwizz

Thought i was doomed when i started taking it apart lol. Nothing like starting of at the deep end

Thanks

redwizz

Do kids ever go to school? Had my son most of the week so didn’t get much done. Few more pictures of the re worked floor pan.

Then welded into place.






Finished of welding the bulkhead side shields and primed.



This car had a five-speed box fitted so the gearbox mounts have been drilled off and the mounts moved back and bolted back in. Unfortunately the holds left were only covered with some kind of heavy-duty tape so might explain why the passenger floor was so bad. Anyway the mounts are welded in now and the hole filled.

Little tip for anyone needing to fill holes in thin steel with a mig welder. Get yourself a piece of copper (thinker the better) and lay this behind the hole to be filled. Then just use your mig as usually to fill the hole. You will find it a lot easer.





Also new cross member arrived so I had to bolt it in and take a picture lol

jigsaw

amazing work being done here, prob the best fab work i have seen on here so far

gouch1

very good work cant wait to see it finished

Mk4 Lew

iTrader: (1)

Great work so far

redwizz

thanks for that Jigsaw

redwizz

thanks chaps

Steve the Plumber

iTrader: (11)

Nice progress, keep at it!

redwizz

Thanks mate im looking forward to seeing it finished

redwizz

Some more progress on the RS mainly on the passenger side. Again the chassis rails are good so it’s mainly floors and sills. Had to make most of the parts apart from the rear door aperture infill that was cut of a donor panel.

Enjoy the pictures..




















What weld ?

whizzisat114

iTrader: (2)

Great work
what do you use to dress the welds in the corners? Belt sander?

Brian

iTrader: (2)

Stunning work


Brian

redwizz

i use different grades of 115mm flap disc's that you can bolt on to a angle grinder.

redwizz

thanks brian

oli49521

[quote=redwizz;5490328]Do kids ever go to school? Had my son most of the week so didn’t get much done. Few more pictures of the re worked floor pan.

Then welded into place.






Finished of welding the bulkhead side shields and primed.



This car had a five-speed box fitted so the gearbox mounts have been drilled off and the mounts moved back and bolted back in. Unfortunately the holds left were only covered with some kind of heavy-duty tape so might explain why the passenger floor was so bad. Anyway the mounts are welded in now and the hole filled.

Little tip for anyone needing to fill holes in thin steel with a mig welder. Get yourself a piece of copper (thinker the better) and lay this behind the hole to be filled. Then just use your mig as usually to fill the hole. You will find it a lot easer.





Also new cross member arrived so I had to bolt it in and take a picture lol


amazing work on the rs take my hat off to you i also see a dub in the background is it a bay or a split ? undergoing the same sort of treatment ?

timster

Fantastic metalwork skills there fella,and having the patience to do it in the first place.