I'm seeing lots of powdercoating on the moving bits. Excellent.

But what are you painting the body with? I don't need brand names, I mean what TYPE of paint?

I also see a lot of people removing the undercoating and then repainting. Are you using the same paint regardless of removing the goo or not?

 

Now body shops use waterbased paint then a solvent clear coat but solvent base coat is still available as the water base needs to be "blown" dry using air blowers,so a solvent base would be a lot easier to use but if its a solid colour,2k paint is better,this is a direct gloss,no clear coat required.

if removing underseal/stone chip id recomend recoating it with new stone chip before repainting for extra protection.

Lee

 

Brilliant answer, thx. But I was referring to what paint you are using underneath the car.

 

The same underside as body panels.

Lee

 

I would think that base coat clear on the bottom would not be strong enough, but if painted over the undercoat it would be flexible enough is the right fles agent was added.

Thanks Geordie, it makes it very simple since I'm painting parts of the car the same white I just order some more and some more clear.

 

No need to add any flex mate,just paint over the new stonechip/guard.

We have a spray sealer which is very good for stuff like this,made by 3m,looks like the original but when dries,dries like rubber so it is flexible enough and has no effect on the paint,eg. cracking.

You painting it white you say?

 

Yep, white 2wd saff and I want to do the entire underside, engine bay, slam panel, boot etc. while the motor is getting refreshed, then spray the whole car. Stock resto.

 

i would do it 2k direct gloss,especialy the underside,2-3 coats,done,no need for clear coat.

Basecoat whites can be very deciving to paint.

Lee

 

I've used this on My Evo and 309 Gti underneath:

http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic.cfm

Take a look at some of the stuff they use it on in there gallery.
Also comes highly recommended from classic car restorers.

If your doin a full underside job I would get some Dinitrol cavity wax off that same site above,much bettter than waxoyl for penetrating in box sections etc,alot easier to use aswell.

 

Good thread.