Mk6 JWRC fiesta cosworth
07-05-2011, 03:04 PM
#1241
Well the 9/16 die turned up today so i went and bough a suitable die stock holder and finished the fittings off,
9/16-18 Split Die
Turned the lead edge down as per Aeroquip fittings
Then after threading the fitting, old with new and Aeroquip to compare
Attached a few fittings to test fit
A quick test in the rack
Well chuffed with the results even if i do say so myself, only criticism i can make is i could of made them shorter but i am not tight for room so i will leave as they are, i will also get them pressure checked if im passing think auto any time soon,
9/16-18 Split Die
Turned the lead edge down as per Aeroquip fittings
Then after threading the fitting, old with new and Aeroquip to compare
Attached a few fittings to test fit
A quick test in the rack
Well chuffed with the results even if i do say so myself, only criticism i can make is i could of made them shorter but i am not tight for room so i will leave as they are, i will also get them pressure checked if im passing think auto any time soon,
you should have used hex.
08-05-2011, 11:34 AM
#1249
Thanks for the nice comments 
I couldn't get any hex but i may make up another set with some hex at a later date maybe,
No previous machining experiance mate, just thought i would buy the lathe and give it a shot, yeah i ruined a few bit here and there but its all part of the learning process
Thanks
Marc
I couldn't get any hex but i may make up another set with some hex at a later date maybe,
No previous machining experiance mate, just thought i would buy the lathe and give it a shot, yeah i ruined a few bit here and there but its all part of the learning process
Thanks
Marc
08-05-2011, 08:11 PM
#1252
PassionFord Post Troll
[QUOTE=M K;5451246]Well the 9/16 die turned up today so i went and bough a suitable die stock holder and finished the fittings off,
9/16-18 Split Die
Is this the "bit" i have shares in ? LOL
9/16-18 Split Die
Is this the "bit" i have shares in ? LOL
08-05-2011, 08:13 PM
#1253
PassionFord Post Troll
)
09-05-2011, 10:02 PM
#1255
Had a dig around in the garage to see if i could find an off cut of stainless steel hex i had from before after Markk mentioned why id not used that instead of round bar as it has the hex for using a spanner to tighten the fittings,
Well........i found the hex and had a go doing one of the fittings with that,
Here it is in comparison to the round bar one, side by side and fitted to the rack with a 90 bend fitting
The only problem with using the hex bar is that due to the fact i am using a die to cut the threads and not cutting the threads on the lathe, i have to have 6mm beyond the base of the thread for the die to run onto as it threads using the center teeth as the fast and last few are tapered so do not cut right down to the edge of the die. This means that straight away the fitting is 6mm longer than it would be if i machined the threads with a lathe tool, the hex has to be 5mm tas well to be worth having and get a good grip on.
Im 99% sure i am fine for room and if i was to use a forged 90 fitting i would probably get the 5mm back so i think i will get some mild steel rather than the stainless as it machines better on the little lathe and make some more when i have time, as this one alone took me 3 hours
Well........i found the hex and had a go doing one of the fittings with that,
Here it is in comparison to the round bar one, side by side and fitted to the rack with a 90 bend fitting
The only problem with using the hex bar is that due to the fact i am using a die to cut the threads and not cutting the threads on the lathe, i have to have 6mm beyond the base of the thread for the die to run onto as it threads using the center teeth as the fast and last few are tapered so do not cut right down to the edge of the die. This means that straight away the fitting is 6mm longer than it would be if i machined the threads with a lathe tool, the hex has to be 5mm tas well to be worth having and get a good grip on.
Im 99% sure i am fine for room and if i was to use a forged 90 fitting i would probably get the 5mm back so i think i will get some mild steel rather than the stainless as it machines better on the little lathe and make some more when i have time, as this one alone took me 3 hours
Last edited by M K; 09-05-2011 at 10:06 PM.
09-05-2011, 10:09 PM
#1256
Also when i am happy with the fittings and decided what ones i am going to use then i will get some SECO7 seals to be certain i have a 100% perfect seal on the 37degree sealing face as i only done the angle by eye to an Aeroquip item and the mini lathe is not low tolerance by any means,
09-05-2011, 10:19 PM
#1258
i may need to lose a mm or so from the lower part of the hex as i am unsure how thick the retaining plate is as it away being plated and that goes in the small gap between the 2 hex parts, so the hex will end up 4mm i think so i wont gain much by taking another 2mm off
I would love a bigger lathe Mark, main reason being is the mini lathe has so much play and backlash in the axis etc you have to hold everything steady with some heavy force while machining certain ways so it doesn't bite and crash when it takes up the backlash if you get what i mean, for example to cut the 37 degree taper i have to set it a few degrees more by as it pushes out a few degrees when you start machining and the tool is forced due to the amount of play in the lathe, to have a PROPER solid no backlash jobby would be awesome
I would love a bigger lathe Mark, main reason being is the mini lathe has so much play and backlash in the axis etc you have to hold everything steady with some heavy force while machining certain ways so it doesn't bite and crash when it takes up the backlash if you get what i mean, for example to cut the 37 degree taper i have to set it a few degrees more by as it pushes out a few degrees when you start machining and the tool is forced due to the amount of play in the lathe, to have a PROPER solid no backlash jobby would be awesome
Last edited by M K; 09-05-2011 at 10:22 PM.
09-05-2011, 10:23 PM
#1259
i may need to lose a mm or so from the lower part of the hex as i am unsure how thick the retaining plate is as it away being plated and that goes in the small gap between the 2 hex parts, so the hex will end up 4mm i think so i wont gain much by taking another 2mm off
I would love a bigger lathe Mark, main reason being is the mini lathe has so much play and backlash in the axis etc you have to hold everything steady with some heavy force while machining certain ways so it doesn't bite and crash when it takes up the backlash if you get what i mean, for example to cut the 37 degree taper i have to set it a few degrees more by i as it pushes out when you start machining due to the amount of play in the lathe, to have a PROPER solid no backlash jobby would be awesome
I would love a bigger lathe Mark, main reason being is the mini lathe has so much play and backlash in the axis etc you have to hold everything steady with some heavy force while machining certain ways so it doesn't bite and crash when it takes up the backlash if you get what i mean, for example to cut the 37 degree taper i have to set it a few degrees more by i as it pushes out when you start machining due to the amount of play in the lathe, to have a PROPER solid no backlash jobby would be awesome
you will pay alot of money to find one without any backlash pal trust me - mine has a few thou in it, but it was built in 1960, im gonna atrip it soon and rebush it all anyway. I can still do the job with it though that i need.
10-05-2011, 09:25 PM
#1262
Picked up the my Wrc breather can tonight from FMS, will probably at some point paint or coat it satin black as im not overly keen on the polished look and will not match anything else
I have everything bar the actual turbo and alternator now for the engine so may have a little mock up soon to check the inlet clears the breather can etc, also just waiting for my billet alt pulley which should be here in the morning,
I have everything bar the actual turbo and alternator now for the engine so may have a little mock up soon to check the inlet clears the breather can etc, also just waiting for my billet alt pulley which should be here in the morning,
15-05-2011, 05:03 PM
#1265
Got rid of the other grp n baffle as i really wanted a proper grp a item, i managed to get hold of an original off ebay but it had sat for years and was rusty and a bit battered so using that as a template i asked my mate Karl who does the other alloy baffles and all my ally welding copy it and make me a new one, he now has the exact dimensions and templates make these up whenever needed 
16-05-2011, 06:47 AM
#1270
Can pop down whenever you want mate as i am about most of the day.
The cost is not 100% decided yet as its the first one he has done but its gonna be somewhere around Ł180 - Ł200 plus delivery, but when you bare in mind Burtons sell the basic design grp n type baffle for Ł150 which is shocking quality then that makes this an absolute bargain and must have for any proper track based car.
Thanks mate, it's very slow progress but it's all progress so that's the main thing, money is the only factor holding me back from making some real progress but that's the same with all of us lol, at the moment although i am spending money i am spending it on things that can keep me involved as well as if i spend on the engine to get built just now or the painting of the car then it goes to someone else to be done and i just sit and wait so want to stay involved with stuff at the minute if you get what i mean.
Thanks Whzzisat114 there is one off touches but also a lot of idea's from motorsport based cars and other peoples projects on here, there is just so much top quality work being undertaken in this last 12 months that there are new ideas and trick bits everywhere you look.
The cost is not 100% decided yet as its the first one he has done but its gonna be somewhere around Ł180 - Ł200 plus delivery, but when you bare in mind Burtons sell the basic design grp n type baffle for Ł150 which is shocking quality then that makes this an absolute bargain and must have for any proper track based car.
Thanks mate, it's very slow progress but it's all progress so that's the main thing, money is the only factor holding me back from making some real progress but that's the same with all of us lol, at the moment although i am spending money i am spending it on things that can keep me involved as well as if i spend on the engine to get built just now or the painting of the car then it goes to someone else to be done and i just sit and wait so want to stay involved with stuff at the minute if you get what i mean.
there is one off touches but also a lot of idea's from motorsport based cars and other peoples projects on here, there is just so much top quality work being undertaken in this last 12 months that there are new ideas and trick bits everywhere you look.
16-05-2011, 05:58 PM
#1275
Thanks guys
A couple more better quality pics of the first Grp a baffle fitted to my big wing sump, Karl has said the quality will be better on the sale items as he did this 1 quickly as a test and has only given it to me for now to check im happy with everything, then il give it back and do the first proper ones
Thanks
Marc
A couple more better quality pics of the first Grp a baffle fitted to my big wing sump, Karl has said the quality will be better on the sale items as he did this 1 quickly as a test and has only given it to me for now to check im happy with everything, then il give it back and do the first proper ones
Thanks
Marc
18-05-2011, 05:17 PM
#1276
Started to strip down the front and rear diffs today as i want the casing blasted and painted before they go back together and although i am in no rush to get the built up the blasting and painting is the cheap part so thought i would do that now to keep me tinkering.
First of front diff all apart, did not need any special tools to strip this down, now the casing is empty i will drill out and tap it for m8 studs all round rather than m6 bolts it has as standard
Only thing is the the old bearing races are stuck solid and even with a puller (that is pretty crap to be fair) i could not move them so this will have to be done by whoever builds them all back up,
Then the rear 7.5" diff, i got the diff out fine with no special tools but i cannot remove the pinion as it has a deep star nut and only the correct socket will do it im guessing so does anybody have an idea where i could get one from? or i will have to stop in a transmission specialist and ask them to undo it for me
This is the star nut
Once that fooker is off il get them blasted
First of front diff all apart, did not need any special tools to strip this down, now the casing is empty i will drill out and tap it for m8 studs all round rather than m6 bolts it has as standard
Only thing is the the old bearing races are stuck solid and even with a puller (that is pretty crap to be fair) i could not move them so this will have to be done by whoever builds them all back up,
Then the rear 7.5" diff, i got the diff out fine with no special tools but i cannot remove the pinion as it has a deep star nut and only the correct socket will do it im guessing so does anybody have an idea where i could get one from? or i will have to stop in a transmission specialist and ask them to undo it for me
This is the star nut
Once that fooker is off il get them blasted
18-05-2011, 06:01 PM
#1277
Started to strip down the front and rear diffs today as i want the casing blasted and painted before they go back together and although i am in no rush to get the built up the blasting and painting is the cheap part so thought i would do that now to keep me tinkering.
First of front diff all apart, did not need any special tools to strip this down, now the casing is empty i will drill out and tap it for m8 studs all round rather than m6 bolts it has as standard
Only thing is the the old bearing races are stuck solid and even with a puller (that is pretty crap to be fair) i could not move them so this will have to be done by whoever builds them all back up,
Then the rear 7.5" diff, i got the diff out fine with no special tools but i cannot remove the pinion as it has a deep star nut and only the correct socket will do it im guessing so does anybody have an idea where i could get one from? or i will have to stop in a transmission specialist and ask them to undo it for me
This is the star nut
Once that fooker is off il get them blasted
First of front diff all apart, did not need any special tools to strip this down, now the casing is empty i will drill out and tap it for m8 studs all round rather than m6 bolts it has as standard
Only thing is the the old bearing races are stuck solid and even with a puller (that is pretty crap to be fair) i could not move them so this will have to be done by whoever builds them all back up,
Then the rear 7.5" diff, i got the diff out fine with no special tools but i cannot remove the pinion as it has a deep star nut and only the correct socket will do it im guessing so does anybody have an idea where i could get one from? or i will have to stop in a transmission specialist and ask them to undo it for me
This is the star nut
Once that fooker is off il get them blasted
thanks mark
