BIG POWER Ebony Cosworth 4x4 Build (Update 16/3/2008) Now at Martins
#1
BIG POWER Ebony Cosworth 4x4 Build (Update 16/3/2008) Now at Martins
Found an Extremely clean J reg ebony black 4x4 about 3 weeks ago now. had all the right bits, coilovers... big brakes up front alloy rad, cooler, wrc breather, swirl pot. 85000 miles from new every mot and nearly full service history, underneath is mint etc etc 15000 reciepts
Anyway Car was smoking very heavily so bought it cheap and set about stripping down the engine. Found that as usual with cossies someones been there before but engine was completely standard. slight lip on top of bores, cracked ring and destroyed shell due to major overtightening on end cap.
Anyway ive put the engine in to a tuning company near me more renound for jap cars but im certainly paying for it lol.
This is the spec, let me know what you think.
Long studded 200 block
Overbored for exact match
Wossner pistons with teflon skirts
Valve cut outs as required
Low compression
Shot peened rods
Full arp bolt and nut kit throughout
ACL RACE Bearings
Good as new unground CRANKSHAFT all uprated bearings
High pressure oil pump Fully balanced bottom end
2 x BD14 cams With verniers
Bronze valve guides and valves reseated
Double Valve Springs
4 layer Wrc Headgasket
GT35 Turbo
Tial external wastegate
Massive headwork for a 25 % increase in flow.
Swedish plenum.
6 paddle alcon.
Weight Matched Bottom End.
All being powder coated and dressed up.
(costing best part of 12 grand.)
Does that sound expensive.
Once ive restored some funds back to my wallet we are going for autronic management with 1000cc siemens injectors, low boost anti lag and launch control.
Going for 550bhp+ so i can beat my dads m5 lol.
Sorry about the long post any feedback would be great....
Oh and im still with the standard gearbox for the mo.
Anyway Car was smoking very heavily so bought it cheap and set about stripping down the engine. Found that as usual with cossies someones been there before but engine was completely standard. slight lip on top of bores, cracked ring and destroyed shell due to major overtightening on end cap.
Anyway ive put the engine in to a tuning company near me more renound for jap cars but im certainly paying for it lol.
This is the spec, let me know what you think.
Long studded 200 block
Overbored for exact match
Wossner pistons with teflon skirts
Valve cut outs as required
Low compression
Shot peened rods
Full arp bolt and nut kit throughout
ACL RACE Bearings
Good as new unground CRANKSHAFT all uprated bearings
High pressure oil pump Fully balanced bottom end
2 x BD14 cams With verniers
Bronze valve guides and valves reseated
Double Valve Springs
4 layer Wrc Headgasket
GT35 Turbo
Tial external wastegate
Massive headwork for a 25 % increase in flow.
Swedish plenum.
6 paddle alcon.
Weight Matched Bottom End.
All being powder coated and dressed up.
(costing best part of 12 grand.)
Does that sound expensive.
Once ive restored some funds back to my wallet we are going for autronic management with 1000cc siemens injectors, low boost anti lag and launch control.
Going for 550bhp+ so i can beat my dads m5 lol.
Sorry about the long post any feedback would be great....
Oh and im still with the standard gearbox for the mo.
Last edited by Ebonycossie4x4; 16-03-2008 at 08:14 PM.
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#8
cars in my mums garage at the moment while the engines outas im using my bros hoist. ill get some ics up asap. Probably saturday though as when i get in from work its dark. It has ozsuper ts on it but i would say the rear ones are too far into the arch. if i extend the wheel studs and use spacers is that a safe way to do it as the car is going to be 500 bhp???
Thankyou
Thankyou
#11
i hate the way the wheel is into the arch on the back...
Any advice on this would be great, i have considered longer studs and wheel spacers as i love super ts and dont wanna give them up unless i get compomotive mos in anthracite but its another 1000 i really dont wanna be spending with the cost of the engine build
Any advice would be great.... Cheers
Any advice on this would be great, i have considered longer studs and wheel spacers as i love super ts and dont wanna give them up unless i get compomotive mos in anthracite but its another 1000 i really dont wanna be spending with the cost of the engine build
Any advice would be great.... Cheers
#12
Alcon 6 paddle has arrived with collins anodised blue engine mounts. Ordered pro alloy twin high performance fan setup at Ł170 Inc vat. Expensive but looks great and should really help cooling.
Pistons have arrived for the engine and block is at machine shop for long studding and everything else that needs doing.
Still waiting on a price for a gt30 turbo or gt35 with external wastegate. With the spec of the engine and the fact that im gonna run autronics what would people recommend. I looked at a t38 but its old technology now and really want to build to a high spec
Any advice is always appreciated.
Any costings of turbos from other people would also be great
Thanks.
Pistons have arrived for the engine and block is at machine shop for long studding and everything else that needs doing.
Still waiting on a price for a gt30 turbo or gt35 with external wastegate. With the spec of the engine and the fact that im gonna run autronics what would people recommend. I looked at a t38 but its old technology now and really want to build to a high spec
Any advice is always appreciated.
Any costings of turbos from other people would also be great
Thanks.
#14
I know mate was in the engine builders on saturday and they
(talked me into)
Doing it in one hit.
Massive head work being done. Same as dennis's Escort Cosworth Ill try and get a pic. Thanks for reminding me i forgot to update that.
Dont think there was any way i would of realistically got the power i want from not doing the headwork so its got to be done.
(talked me into)
Doing it in one hit.
Massive head work being done. Same as dennis's Escort Cosworth Ill try and get a pic. Thanks for reminding me i forgot to update that.
Dont think there was any way i would of realistically got the power i want from not doing the headwork so its got to be done.
#16
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Looks a nice one
Going to be a flier with that spec too
Standard gearbox though think you need to budget a few grand for uprated box and diffs if you want to use the power you will have
Going to be a flier with that spec too
Standard gearbox though think you need to budget a few grand for uprated box and diffs if you want to use the power you will have
#17
are these boxes really as weak as people say. My last cossie was 380bhp and i never had a gearbox problem (until it come away from the engine while doing some serious speed round a bend0
Causing me to have a very painfull accident but thats a very different story.
The only thing i ever noticed is a noise as slamming it into 3rd when racing through the gears. How long do people predict before the standard gearbox blows on this spec?
is a gearbox that wont break about Ł3000
Suppose i better get saving.
Causing me to have a very painfull accident but thats a very different story.
The only thing i ever noticed is a noise as slamming it into 3rd when racing through the gears. How long do people predict before the standard gearbox blows on this spec?
is a gearbox that wont break about Ł3000
Suppose i better get saving.
#18
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Once you have done the box the diffs will shit there selves!!!!!!!
All depends on how you drive the car,drive like your mum and they will last forever
Give it a few hard launches from a standing start and the box will break
Big jump from 380bhp to 500 bhp on the stress to drive train
All depends on how you drive the car,drive like your mum and they will last forever
Give it a few hard launches from a standing start and the box will break
Big jump from 380bhp to 500 bhp on the stress to drive train
#19
yes i suppose it is quite a big jump really i do like a hard launch (showing off)
But if its going to cost me 3 grand or 150 putting another second hand one in everytime i do it i think ill launch it a lot less.
I plan on getting a apexi boost controller and run 350bhp most of the time and 500+ when i need to Anihalate someone
Thanks for the replys diffs are 1000 each arnt they?
But if its going to cost me 3 grand or 150 putting another second hand one in everytime i do it i think ill launch it a lot less.
I plan on getting a apexi boost controller and run 350bhp most of the time and 500+ when i need to Anihalate someone
Thanks for the replys diffs are 1000 each arnt they?
#22
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I don't mind you using the pics mate..
you will be surprised how much these boxes will actually take ( not saying i have not broken any )
i give my one loads of stick , mainly launches...
blown a viscus coupling and broken a 3rd gear..
but most of all done a fair few clutch`s
i would advise a front diff strengthening plate though.. as its keeping my ones alive
just saving up for the proper box i want..
you will be surprised how much these boxes will actually take ( not saying i have not broken any )
i give my one loads of stick , mainly launches...
blown a viscus coupling and broken a 3rd gear..
but most of all done a fair few clutch`s
i would advise a front diff strengthening plate though.. as its keeping my ones alive
just saving up for the proper box i want..
#25
Car coming along a bit now Drilled out snapped intercooler bolt. cleaned it up and put cooler back in position with new bolts and rubber spacers. Also my fans and bracket arrived which i have put on to the now cleaned up radiator, and its back in the car for the time being so fans can be wired up with switch easier.
Things are coming on quite nicely at the moment.
My bad bit of news about the crank being scrap due to crack is now sorted.
Thanks to RapidFord the crank i purchased from them is excellent. After examination from machine shop, its not cracked never been ground and its perfectly strieght. Just needs lapping. The bloke there was genuinely impressed.
Things are coming on quite nicely at the moment.
My bad bit of news about the crank being scrap due to crack is now sorted.
Thanks to RapidFord the crank i purchased from them is excellent. After examination from machine shop, its not cracked never been ground and its perfectly strieght. Just needs lapping. The bloke there was genuinely impressed.
#26
just a quick update (sorry about no pics) Will post them when i get a chance.
Ordered my gt35 turbo today with tial external wastegate from reyland. Got all the extras so that its ready to bolt in, Have also got the 4 inch blue pipe and larger airfilter for it.
My new wheelnuts, longer studs and spacers arrived today so over the weekend i will be fitting them to get my wheels to fit in the arch better.
In the morning im going to order my swedish plenum from Mike and possibly the 70mm Throttle body.....
Will i need this????
i think were gonna be more like high 500s with this spec now although i think 2x bd14 is bot the right way to go? Maybe a bd16 somewhere. im in the hands of the engine builder at the moment so i dont know.
Another point to make is that im buying all this stuff but the autronics is not going to go on for at least a month as i need to run it in and replenish some funds.
is it going to be run inble with all this extra stuff and only on greens and the same fueling as before. Im installing the engine back into the car so will prob have to go back to have the fuel adjusted
Any advice is always greatly appreciated as all this can get confusing
Thanks Guys
Ordered my gt35 turbo today with tial external wastegate from reyland. Got all the extras so that its ready to bolt in, Have also got the 4 inch blue pipe and larger airfilter for it.
My new wheelnuts, longer studs and spacers arrived today so over the weekend i will be fitting them to get my wheels to fit in the arch better.
In the morning im going to order my swedish plenum from Mike and possibly the 70mm Throttle body.....
Will i need this????
i think were gonna be more like high 500s with this spec now although i think 2x bd14 is bot the right way to go? Maybe a bd16 somewhere. im in the hands of the engine builder at the moment so i dont know.
Another point to make is that im buying all this stuff but the autronics is not going to go on for at least a month as i need to run it in and replenish some funds.
is it going to be run inble with all this extra stuff and only on greens and the same fueling as before. Im installing the engine back into the car so will prob have to go back to have the fuel adjusted
Any advice is always greatly appreciated as all this can get confusing
Thanks Guys
#28
this is a pic of the car today, Its going quite well. Ive run thicker gauge cable strieght from the battery for uprated fuel pump. (when i get it) Ive also fitted the studs, spacers and nuts to the car and in my opinion it looks a million times better.
I only currently have the pic of before the studs so you will have to bear with me.
I only currently have the pic of before the studs so you will have to bear with me.
#32
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Originally Posted by Ebonycossie4x4
just a quick update (sorry about no pics) Will post them when i get a chance.
Ordered my gt35 turbo today with tial external wastegate from reyland. Got all the extras so that its ready to bolt in, Have also got the 4 inch blue pipe and larger airfilter for it.
My new wheelnuts, longer studs and spacers arrived today so over the weekend i will be fitting them to get my wheels to fit in the arch better.
In the morning im going to order my swedish plenum from Mike and possibly the 70mm Throttle body.....
Will i need this????
i think were gonna be more like high 500s with this spec now although i think 2x bd14 is bot the right way to go? Maybe a bd16 somewhere. im in the hands of the engine builder at the moment so i dont know.
Another point to make is that im buying all this stuff but the autronics is not going to go on for at least a month as i need to run it in and replenish some funds.
is it going to be run inble with all this extra stuff and only on greens and the same fueling as before. Im installing the engine back into the car so will prob have to go back to have the fuel adjusted
Any advice is always greatly appreciated as all this can get confusing
Thanks Guys
Ordered my gt35 turbo today with tial external wastegate from reyland. Got all the extras so that its ready to bolt in, Have also got the 4 inch blue pipe and larger airfilter for it.
My new wheelnuts, longer studs and spacers arrived today so over the weekend i will be fitting them to get my wheels to fit in the arch better.
In the morning im going to order my swedish plenum from Mike and possibly the 70mm Throttle body.....
Will i need this????
i think were gonna be more like high 500s with this spec now although i think 2x bd14 is bot the right way to go? Maybe a bd16 somewhere. im in the hands of the engine builder at the moment so i dont know.
Another point to make is that im buying all this stuff but the autronics is not going to go on for at least a month as i need to run it in and replenish some funds.
is it going to be run inble with all this extra stuff and only on greens and the same fueling as before. Im installing the engine back into the car so will prob have to go back to have the fuel adjusted
Any advice is always greatly appreciated as all this can get confusing
Thanks Guys
the intake system is a very good idea, as recent flow tests showed up just how bad the standard item is..
as for the running in, you would not want to damage the new engine in anyway, and would need to be very careful on first start up, but best suggestion would be to have the fulling checked on start up as with the new set up i would expect it to run very lean...
#33
PassionFord Post Whore!!
iTrader: (3)
looks a nice car, after seeing Dennis's engine i thought people would be using TDI
my car has run near 450bhp since last summer on a standard gearbox, i have a mullit box but havn't bothered fitting it yet......
cossie aside, is that an interceptor on the drive?
my car has run near 450bhp since last summer on a standard gearbox, i have a mullit box but havn't bothered fitting it yet......
cossie aside, is that an interceptor on the drive?
#34
1st to 200 without NOS
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by DENNIS
the BD16`s is 3500 - 8500 RPM and are not really suitable on a road car as you would have next to no idle, flat below 3500 rpm and would need to rev it to 9000 rpm + to make use of them,
#35
Problem is dennis that obviosly im installing the engine myself once its built and dont have a fueling check system. Im obviosly going to bring it down to you at tdi to adjust the fueling (is this best on a trailer or is it ok to drive) I have been told im going to have to change oil every 50 miles for first 500... is that true?
i dont think the bd14s are too much of a problem. Im not attempting to strain every last bhp out of the car but if it is a problem then 150 for a new cam is not going to kill me.
oh and yes it is an interceptor, its my stepfathers pride and joy that would usually be in the garage if it wernt for my younger brothers rs turbo taking up both sides of it.
Thanks for all the help guys
i dont think the bd14s are too much of a problem. Im not attempting to strain every last bhp out of the car but if it is a problem then 150 for a new cam is not going to kill me.
oh and yes it is an interceptor, its my stepfathers pride and joy that would usually be in the garage if it wernt for my younger brothers rs turbo taking up both sides of it.
Thanks for all the help guys
#38
PassionFord Post Whore!!
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Originally Posted by martin-reyland
Originally Posted by DENNIS
the BD16`s is 3500 - 8500 RPM and are not really suitable on a road car as you would have next to no idle, flat below 3500 rpm and would need to rev it to 9000 rpm + to make use of them,
#39
DEYTUKURJERBS
Cool car
Im deffo agreeing with the thing about why would a BD16 give you bad idle and low down power? Its only a fairly mild 265 duration, almost identical to a BD10, just with loads more lift.
Not exactly some 320deg race cam is it!
Im deffo agreeing with the thing about why would a BD16 give you bad idle and low down power? Its only a fairly mild 265 duration, almost identical to a BD10, just with loads more lift.
Not exactly some 320deg race cam is it!
#40
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Originally Posted by martin-reyland
Originally Posted by DENNIS
the BD16`s is 3500 - 8500 RPM and are not really suitable on a road car as you would have next to no idle, flat below 3500 rpm and would need to rev it to 9000 rpm + to make use of them,
as for the idle.. OK no idle was maybe a bit of an exaggeration, but from experience there not very smooth at all, OK on a race car where its on high revs all the time, but not on a road car ....