should be fine mate Have you checked on the specs of the four post ramp for base requirements?

With the floor, and its picky again and most would say ''its only a garage'', but the visqueen for the base should lap into the wall DPC . If you build before doing the base you generally put and 18inch DPC on that drapes down inside ready to lap with the DPM visqueen when you concrete! Again, a lot dont do it, even in houses

As for weather and getting on with the rest we would do it that way too! Better all round. If it rains its protected, if its hot its protected from sun for cracking and you dont get the finish bladdered in mortar

 

so like a 'V' shape in the rafter then ? if so then, yes at all points - what a boring job that is on all 50 odd rafters

the outer block work was always going to be rendered to match the house - so just get it slapped on !!
Though my brickwork looks more mortor than blocks had i done it myself lol

 

mark i would question using ange iron ,as a bricklayer myself i in 25 years have never used/seen a angle iron as lintol over a span that wide ?
just an observation not a dig mark

 

I would nevr have know that and no we havent, though according to the building inspector the floor in a garage can be as low as you want in relation to the DPC, usually there is something iir like 150mm for the DPC from the ground level as a min, I was sort of listening in when he was talking to the builders.
we had originaly planned to build up to slab level then have to have a ramp up in, now we can have a lower floor we will not need the ramp. otherwise the visqueen would have met the DPC, but not now.

 

James I think what it is, im sure youll agree, is that people think if something will take the weight of something then it will be ok, without thinking of extra weight it might hold( IE snow) and the deflection issues caused by wind and natural movement! Lintels at stability as well

I think the only time ive come accross angle irons like that is above old fireplace openings!

 

yes thats no probs, that steel has a higher strain than a concrete lintol in a lesser area, I have checked the force required to bend that size of steel and it will never suffer what we are putting on it.

Thats the biggest thing I have come across with when i looked at steel building versus brick. when you calculate the material you build with traditionally the things should never stay up, sand/cement/dense block etc.
at least with steel you know its a calculated and measurable material.

maybe i just dont like bricks and mortar - only, it looks nicer and stays warmer in winter

 

spoken like a true bricky Lee

 

So how would you guys rate timber for supporting wall structures then ?

a litle story, I renovated a terraced house a few year ago, circa 1890 build, very long row, differing in age from 1800's-1920's.

the front wall had bowed out some amount, the ground floor was solid 9" wall, the upper of the house had a cavity ? have you seen this before ?

 

Yeah that can be an issue with garages mate and we try to avoid lower bases! Usually can do with detached garages but integral ones with a door from the house into them have to be min 100mm lower so ya cant avoid it!

 

yes lee i agree with you and possibly meter cabinets ,snow loading will definatley affect it ,as will the weight of the roof covering itself,also their is no room at lintol level to mount the roller shutter as i think once the door is rolled up it will be between 12 and 18 inches deep depending on the shutter.a sliding door would work better in this instance .

 

What had they done to get the cavity above? Did they corbel the brickwork out at joist level internally?

 

http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=q&so...72.05,,0,-2.84

no steel at all in this new build we did

 

Lol yeah thats why i asked about the door as its usually 300mm above the opening for the box for it to roll into!

 

With regards to the steel lintol, do you know what the tonnage required would be for this to be affected ? or is this just an 'off the whim statement ?

and the door will fit perfectly, it slides up into the roof void. or is that what you are calling a sliding door ? if so I know what you mean

 

Its not a roller shutter then Mark? If it slides into the roof void?

 

could be a sliding roller shutter thingy?

 

no, the whole street had large wooden joist across the front of the house that supported the upper inner leaf

thats what i called madness when i looked at it, but then thought well, its lasted over 200 years, and was reused as its condition was still straight as a die (well as good as timber gets)

very nice pad, so lots of timber then ?

this is what I dont get, I think alot of builders dont fully understand steel works hence they see a piece of concete in there and instantly think its better., yet for half the space, half the weight the steel will take usually more force.

 

made up of slats in sliding channels - we use them at work also. you can fot the top section on any angle you like(within reason.)

 

mark if you have sized it and taking into account all the loadings i apolagoise i was typing when you had already replied .just i have never seen it done like this before ,but no i dont make whimsical comments .as i said im not having a dig mark

 

fully timber built

 

Ah i know now i thought you mean a roller shutter

 

no pobs James, I just like to challenge people on their views, I dont like to just use something if it looks right - as you have said, although we dont get a lot of wind and snow where we are, we have taken it into account, and, even weighed the timbers and got the full weight of the roof and woked out the division across its length for the contact points of the (keyword) birdsmouths !!

 

Nah im all for using steel as and when Mark I do like to stick to traditional methods whre possible though. I do not like timber framed houses!

 

I would never have a timber framed house either, justlike i would never buy a house newer than say 1980, just no character to them, and most of them are hollow ! hollow = noise. not for me,

Why has mortar never been replaced ? - i hate the stuff, surely someone must have come up with something better by now after all its just a glue.

 

mark believe me if the industry could come up with something to replace mortar they would have done it by now so they could get rid of trades people and replace them with polish labourers lol

 

yeh your probably right James, though are all the tradesmen not Polish or Hungarian now anyway ?

 

well most of them think they are thats for sure mark,i have witnessed polish brickies [i use this term loosley]building the gable end of a house in the dark with torches ,beat that if you can lol

 

I couldnt beat that James, but i would certainly have loved to see it !!

I bought a building a few years ago that had a crack in the gable end, did a deal with the owner to drop it re tie it and put it back up, no big deal, only when i came to have a look at it, yes there was no crack, but the wall was like a dogs back leg, it was back up to 3/4's as well when I made the old boy builder stop what he was doing

terrible.

made them take it back to the floor again and pull the corners out to true it all back up. (as they had left the corners up before)

 

It's getting there now. Looks great!

Benni.

 

http://www.stanair.co.uk/industrial-...head-doors.htm

 

Mark, dont take peoples comments so seriously mate. I had the exact same thing when I was building mine over on Turbosport and alot of experts came out of the woodwork. Most are not digs, they are just geniunely interested. Some comments are valid some not but you can sift through them yourself.

FYI my DPC in the walls is not linked into the floor. One reason for me is that the floor is 100mm at its shortest distance from the DPC in the wall. I didn't know how to lap it up from under the floor and into the walls when the floor had a fall from the rear to the front of the building. It wouldn't have sat flat up the wall imho. My regs said that I didn't need DPC under the floor at all but I added it so the floor wasn't too cold when laying on it. Its not part of the house but I would still like it as comfortable as possible so definately lay some damp proof under the floor slab.

Just one thing I "may" have noticed. I could be wrong, but are your straps just tying in the wallplate or do they go up to the rafters? You can get straps that twist 180 degrees that are specific for mounting on the rafter and then the wall. I have used them in mine and you may just be able to make the one out in the corner of this pic:



A much stonger way to hold the roof on imho. Lee will be able to tell you the correct name for them as I'm not a builder.]

Flying up quickly now! I thought I had done well getting mine up and watertight in 4 months. Mind you I done mine only at weekends and the only labourer I employed was a brickie.

 

Now I've posted the pic it isn't very clear but I'm sure you get the idea.

If not I have clearer pics on my pc at home.

Actually I think my regs stated that the roof had to be tied in every 3rd rafter so I'm sures says the same and you will be doing so.

 

TBH Kieron because the rafters are spiked to the wall plate he only needs to use L shaped anchor straps to hold the wall plate down and not twisted ones. If there was any issue regarding holding the rafters down then the ideal way would be to truss clip each one to the wall plate

Regards to the DPM, it is correct that its not a requirement on a detached garage, like i said earlier im just picky and prefer to do so.

 

Nah im not mate, its all good fun, even I can tell the differance between a good build and a bad build, so im pretty pround of what we have acheived in less than 4 weeks.

I do not confess to be an expert in building work, just the same as 99% of people on here are not car/vehicle experts


oh and yes, i have the thickest visqueen I could get going under the slab
I will speak to the building regs guy about the straps pal

 

Lee, I have no idea what spiked means I'm afraid mate but my wall plates are cemented on then screwed down through the brickwork. The rafters are then metal clipped (truss clip maybe??) down onto the wall plate. My roof is metal sheeting not tiles so I don't want to run the risk of the wind getting under it and it taking off as each sheet is 6m long so they are fair ole things. Maybe mine is over engineered but for the price of those straps @ a couple of quid then why not.. I'm sure I didn't need those twist straps and I purchased some L shaped ones too but I still have those mainly unfitted..

 

The clips can been seen in this pic:



Are they truss Clips Lee?

 

kieron ,i think lee means nailed ,a lot of problems with wind is caused by negative pressure[creating a vacum] caused by the wind which can lift a roof ,the weight of the tiles would help in this situation ,this is one of the main reasons you fit wall plate straps ,like you did

 

Mate im not against over doing things

 

that looks a good size mate

 

I am against over paying though.