cossiecrew

i have forsale a mint pair of upside down forks removed from a mint r1 also have top and bottom yokes,clipons,front mudguard i bought these to do the conversion on my r6 but sold the bike i also have an r6 bottom yoke with centre pole this is everything needed to convert the r6 or just replace on your r1

£300 the lot no offers

cossiecrew

Heres a How-to I got from somewhere else.

Step-by-Step Instructions! How-To R1 Fork Conversion!!!

YZF-R1 Fork Conversion For Yamaha YZF-R6

R1 Parts Required:
-R1 forks
-Upper Triple Clamp
-Lower Triple Clamp
-Front Fender w/ Hardware
-Left and Right Clip-Ons
-Clip-on Bar-ends
*All Other parts are re-usable!

Suggest taking some pictures in case you forget what goes where. (Polaroids, Digital, etc..)

Safety First! Disconnect GROUND cable on Battery!
-Remove (2) 5mm Allen bolts located at rear below the rider's seat.
-Remove (1) 10mm or Phillips bolt on Negative (-) post on Battery.
-Relocate Black Ground Wire away from battery.

Install Rear Swing Arm Stand on a level, smoothes surface!

Remove Front Fender
-Remove (2) Phillips Screws
-Remove (2) 8mm bolts with 10mm nuts behind it.
-Remove Fender by sliding towards the FRONT

Remove Upper Fairing:
-Remove Left and Right Ram Air covers ((2)-phillips screws each cover)
-Remove Left and Right Mirrors ((2) 10mm nuts each)
-Remove 10 Phillips screws retaining upper fairing assy.
(6) silver phillips screws on the sides (3 Left, 3 Right)
(4) green phillips screws around and behind the headlamps
(2) black plastic phillip retainers below the Ram Air inlet
-Pull the COMPLETE upper fairing assy PARTIALLY away from the steering to disconnect
The following:
-Disconnect Left and Right side marker lamp connectors
-Disconnect WHITE connector below Upper Fairing Stay
-Disconnect Connector behind Gauges (Pull back black rubber cover to gain access)
*NOTE: At this time, the Ram Air Grille WILL fall out unless you remove it yourself
by reaching it from BEHIND the headlights.
-Set aside Upper Fairing/Headlamp assy. to a safe location.

Remove Upper Fairing Stay Bracket
-Remove (2) 12mm bolts attaching bracket to the frame.
-Set aside Upper Fairing Stay Bracket w/ Gauges and Ram Air ducts to a safe location.

Remove Mid and Lower Fairing Panels (Really no need, but insures no damage)
-To Remove Mids: (4) Phillip screws per side
-To Remove Lowers: (2) Phillip Screws per side

Remove COMPLETE Front Brake Assy as ONE UNIT
-Remove 8mm bolt on each fork leg retaining brake hose holder
-Set holder's aside
-Remove (2) 12mm bolts attaching Brake Caliper on each fork leg.
-Slide each brake caliper off the brake disc, and let it momentarily hang.
-Using a pair of wire cutters, snip the thinnest piece of the Lower Triple Clamp
COVER to allow the brake hose to be removed on each side.
-Using a pair of standard pliers, slightly open the wire brake hose holder on the
Lower Triple Clamp and slide the brake hose out.
-Remove Tie-strap holding brake hoses to upper Right fork leg.
-Remove (1) 8mm bolt retaining master cylinder reservoir to Upper Triple Clamp.
-Remove (1) 8mm bolt attaching master cylinder reservoir to cable holder.
-Supporting the Master Cylinder assy., remove (2) 8mm bolts retaining the master cylinder
clamp on the Right side clip-on.
-Set aside the complete front brake assy. ensuring the master cylinder is hanging ABOVE
the brake calipers.
*NOTE: DO NOT squeeze the brake lever once the brake calipers have been removed.
You can also place a thin object between both sets of pads to keep the caliper pistons
from coming out.

Remove Front Wheel
-Loosen (1) 6mm Allen Axle pinch bolt on RIGHT side fork leg.
-Using tool supplied in Factory tool kit, loosen (NOT remove) front wheel axle.
NOTE: Be careful not to tip motorcycle over!
-Using a standard scissor jack (Easily found in many Foreign cars, used to change
flat tires) Raise the motorcycle in front by placing the jack below the header exhaust
pipes. There is spot with a sheet of flat metal welded to it, raise it there.
NOTE #1: Make sure motorcycle remains steady on rear stand as you raise the front!!!
NOTE #2: Using a measuring tape, measure the distance between the BOTTOM of the steering
neck of the frame (just above the lower triple clamp) and the CENTER of the wheel axle.
Save this measurement for future reference when re-installing the R1 forks.
-NOW remove the front axle.
-Remove Front wheel and set aside in a safe place.

Remove Upper Triple Clamp
-Using a plastic/wooden knife, "pop" off the black plastic caps located on the "inner"
end of each clip-on. (1) per Clip-on.
-Remove (1) 5mm Allen bolt located beneath each plastic cap on each clip-on.
-Remove Bar ends on BOTH clip-ons using an 8mm Allen.
-Using a medium size zip-tie (or similar object), lube with some silicone spray/oil
then slide it beneath the Left handgrip until it reaches the switch.
Using some "twist" force you will loosen the "seal" and be able to pull the handlegrip
off.
-Remove (2) Phillip screws attaching the Turn Signal Switch to the LEFT handlebar.
-Remove the Turn Signal Switch and immediately re-assemble switch with both screws.
-Allow Choke Cable to hang. If Choke Lever falls off, store in a safe place for later use.
-Loosen the 10mm pinch nut on the Clutch lever holder.
-Disconnect the Clutch safety switch located just below the clutch cable adjuster.
-Loosen the LEFT Clip-on 6mm Allen pinch bolt.
-Remove the LEFT clip-on from the LEFT fork and at the same time SLIDE the clutch assy. off.
-Allow Clutch assy. to hang.
-Remove (2) Phillip Screws attaching RIGHT side Kill switch.
-Loosen 6mm Allen pinch bolt on RIGHT side clip-on.
-Remove RIGHT side clip-on from RIGHT Fork, to do so, you will need to PARTIALLY split
the Kill Switch assy. This will allow you to SLIDE the Kill Switch AND Throttle Grip
as one unit off the RIGHT side clip-on.
-Immediately re-install both screws onto the KIll switch.
-Cut/Remove Tie-strap retaining Ignition Lock/Switch harness to Lower Triple Clamp.
-Remove Right side rubber Ram Air Duct. (1) Phillip screw
-Remove Right side Frame Inlay cover. (3) Phillps screws
-Remove Fuel Tank Upper Mounting bolts. (2) 5mm Allen bolts
-Remove Fuel Tank Rear pinch bolt. (1) 5mm Allen bolt
-Disconnect (2) Fuel tank vent hoses.
-Shut fuel tank valve to "OFF" position and remove Fuel hose on valve.
-Disconnect Low Fuel Level Sensor connector. GREEN Connector
-Remove Fuel Tank Assy and set aside to a Fire Safe location.
-Loosen re-usable Tie-strap located on inner Right side of frame near Airbox.
-Disconnect 4-wire ignition connector.
-Carefully remove ignition harness by gaining access through Right side Frame cut-out
and Right side Ram Air duct area.
-Remove Upper Triple Clamp center mounting nut using a 1.25" Socket.
-Remove washer located just below nut.
-Loosen (2) Upper Triple Clamp pinch bolts located on both Fork sides.
-Remove Upper Triple Clamp assy. and set aside.

Remove Lower Triple Clamp and Fork assy.
-Disconnect Horn connectors (2).
-Remove Steering stem Retainer/plate located just below the Upper Triple Clamp.
-Remove Steering Stem Upper "jam" nut. (May require using a C-spanner wrench)
-Remove and set aside rubber washer.
-While supporting the Lower Triple Clamp and Fork assy., remove the Steering Stem Lower Nut and set aside.

Remove Forks from Lower Triple Clamp
-Loosen ALL (4) 6mm Allen pinch bolts on Lower Triple Clamp.
-Using a Flat-blade screwdriver, spread each side of the Lower Triple Clamp to
allow each fork to slide out.

Swap Steering Stems
-Due to the difference in Stem length (approx. .75"), both stems need to be swapped.
-Unless you have a Hydraulic Press handy, you will need to visit your local machine shop
or Auto Parts Store and have them PRESS/REMOVE the Lower Bearing Races and Stems on BOTH
the R1 Lower Triple Clamp and the R6 Lower Triple Clamp.
*NOTE: The Stems on both Lower Triple Clamps are tapered and secured with a snap-ring!
Care must be taken to have the stems pressed DOWN! This means the LONG exposed end of the
stem will go through the triple clamp when properly pressed.
-Using the R6 stem (with snap-ring) and R1 Lower Triple Clamp, you slide the R6 stem into
the R1 Clamp until it bottoms out on the snap-ring.
*NOTE: Pressing is NOT required to re-install the R6 stem into the R1 Clamp, due to a .005"
difference in stem thickness. It has a next-to-perfect fit.
I personally thoroughly cleaned the stem and clamp with a brake-cleaner spray
then roughened the joining surfaces with 300 grit sandpaper. Next, I JB Welded the two
parts together and allowed to dry overnight.

Install New Steering Lower Bearing
-Install a new Steering Lower Bearing by tapping/installing the new race onto the steering
stem first.
*Note: Do not forget to install the dust seal BEFORE installing the new bearing!

Reassembly
-The reassembly process is the reverse of disassembly but we need to keep a couple of
factors in mind.
-Using the Fork measurement taken prior to disassembly, we have a very good starting point
and setting to set the fork height in the triple clamps.
-Some custom fabrication is required to reattach the original horn, dust shield and
master cylinder reservoir.
-On the R6, unless you decide to remove your Ram Air covers, the R1 clip-ons will be
ABOVE the Upper Triple Clamp.
-Unless you are using Aftermarket Clip-ons, there will be a small gap between the clip-on
and Upper Triple Clamp where the alignment/index bolt goes.
-Fasten all steering fasteners to Factory Specifications as per R1 specs.
-Measurements will need to be taken from the original R6 clip-on. The alignment holes on
BOTH clip-ons which align and hold the switch assy's need to be transferred/re-drilled to
the R1 clip-ons.
-Unless you plan to CUT and remove the original ignition/lock assy. from the R6 Upper
Triple Clamp, you will need to extend the wiring harness on the R1 Ignition.
-If you too have a side mounted steering damper as I do, you will need to order a
replacement Fork Clamp in the size of 54mm. (Original R6 size: 43mm)
-Suggested R1 forks to purchase are of 2000-2001 model years. These forks have a lighter
spring which were made by Ohlins.

cossiecrew

£275 no offers

matty-r6

hi there, do these forks fit a 2002 r6? what was the model you had?

quinny123

hi, i am in the middle of this conversion. i have ohlins r&t forks and an attack r1 billet clamp. im wondering if i will need to get a new stem. i dont have the new stem bearings to check yet, and they are still 2 weeks away in the post, so im trying to save time! can i use the r1 stem that i got with the clamp (i bloody hope so it cost me 1k) or do i need to order a r6 stem?

the original

still got them and what year r6 are they suitable for?
cheers

cossiecrew

forgot about these and this thread fitting to r1 would be 98-01 maybe 02 cant remember and r6 is upto 02 if anyone wants them a quick £240 you can take them there mint i just have no use for them as i no longer have r6

cossiecrew

right final offer £200 or i will just leave them in the spare room

cossiecrew

no interest then ? how can you not want the upside down forks the forks are the main thing that make the r6 poxy

cossiecrew

pm replied

Rkfrd1

do you still have the parts or did you get rid of them. let me know. rkfrd1@yahoo.com.

cossiecrew

sold