RST Suspension......
22-01-2006, 03:31 PM
#41
Thats very kind, but I would like to BUY a replacement! So, you saying that there are decent Coilovers that will fit mine without the need to replace all the rear Wishbone assemblies?
I just don't think I can afford to do it all.
I just don't think I can afford to do it all.
22-01-2006, 03:42 PM
#42
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christian in all honesty its the wishbones that you need to get rid of as thier just to independant you do need the link kit for coilovers but i dont think the tie bars are nessasary they wernt mentioned when i had my link bars made 250 my 4 links were pitance lad compared what youve chucked at your mota do it justice lad and yourself for launching 
22-01-2006, 04:03 PM
#43
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
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Just for general info, H&R make springs and use Bilstein inserts in their coilover kits.
Fully adjustable rear is definitely the way to go, standard setup is a bit sloppy. RST front is quite good if you add some adjustable stuff - don't see much point in coilovers, theres not much travel in the front available, so some good 40mm springs maximum and good struts (I ran Monroe Sensatrac they were fine), you just have to get good at transfering the cars weight to the corner where you need grip and you can carry good speed with minimal understeer through corners. I never had a problem with the rear sliding out (unless I'd seriously stuffed up a curve), I ran about 2.5deg using H&R CCC bolts, standard setup. But under braking the car would wander a bit from the back, even with full Superflex bush kit. I only ever raced on the Nordschleife, so a slightly softer setup was optimal, and it never had to take the abuse of a rally stage.
If you're going for the rear setup, you should strengthen the whole rear, the absolute minimum would be a strut brace. Otherwise three mates in the back and going over a bump could fold your car - the weight of the car is not supposed to be carried by the strut top mounts.
I've seen people retain the rear arms, and fit adjustable spring platforms, which I believe are sold for the Polo.
Anyway, just get the rear MEF kit, and a new set of dampers from Koni or Monroe, and fit just the tie bars. Then look into the strengthening, and rear coilovers, and eventually sell your rear lowering springs and newish rear struts, and fit the rest of the MEF kit and the coilovers. Sorted.
Fully adjustable rear is definitely the way to go, standard setup is a bit sloppy. RST front is quite good if you add some adjustable stuff - don't see much point in coilovers, theres not much travel in the front available, so some good 40mm springs maximum and good struts (I ran Monroe Sensatrac they were fine), you just have to get good at transfering the cars weight to the corner where you need grip and you can carry good speed with minimal understeer through corners. I never had a problem with the rear sliding out (unless I'd seriously stuffed up a curve), I ran about 2.5deg using H&R CCC bolts, standard setup. But under braking the car would wander a bit from the back, even with full Superflex bush kit. I only ever raced on the Nordschleife, so a slightly softer setup was optimal, and it never had to take the abuse of a rally stage.
If you're going for the rear setup, you should strengthen the whole rear, the absolute minimum would be a strut brace. Otherwise three mates in the back and going over a bump could fold your car - the weight of the car is not supposed to be carried by the strut top mounts.
I've seen people retain the rear arms, and fit adjustable spring platforms, which I believe are sold for the Polo.
Anyway, just get the rear MEF kit, and a new set of dampers from Koni or Monroe, and fit just the tie bars. Then look into the strengthening, and rear coilovers, and eventually sell your rear lowering springs and newish rear struts, and fit the rest of the MEF kit and the coilovers. Sorted.
22-01-2006, 04:17 PM
#44
Originally Posted by Christian and Beccy
Thats very kind, but I would like to BUY a replacement! So, you saying that there are decent Coilovers that will fit mine without the need to replace all the rear Wishbone assemblies?
I just don't think I can afford to do it all.
I just don't think I can afford to do it all.
You could always do as I did first off (before having the arms) and rose joint the inner end of a standard wishbone. This then gives you simple camber adjustment, with castor being adjusted by washers on the tie bar.
22-01-2006, 04:25 PM
#45
So, would I be correct in my understanding the the Front is just a case of bolting Coilovers on, no other parts needed? Unless I want the proper Spherical Mounts, then I have to convert the Turrets?
Rears would be best with the full MEF setup? So, how much does that cost in total then?
Rears would be best with the full MEF setup? So, how much does that cost in total then?
22-01-2006, 04:35 PM
#46
Fronts are a bolt on job, with no mods required even if you dont go for the spherical mounts, the rears are the same. IE no turret mods anywhere.
The reason we want to supply the spherical mounts with them, is the top plate (the bit you see when you lift the bonnet) needs to be machined out slightly by us to fit the larger strut insert through. The spherical bearing top mount already has this done and is by far the better method of doing it.
The reason we want to supply the spherical mounts with them, is the top plate (the bit you see when you lift the bonnet) needs to be machined out slightly by us to fit the larger strut insert through. The spherical bearing top mount already has this done and is by far the better method of doing it.
any new goodies from mef yet?
22-01-2006, 06:07 PM
#49
I have been thinking of doing a short term hire set for people who do trackdays etc, just not sure if there would be enough interest.
I change mine roughly every year or so, and have so far not even had to advertise them for sale, they keep a decent value behind them, and as I have a list of people looking for them they are still in good demand even 2nd and third hand.
Can't see that with many other makes.
We first started off about 13 years ago by sleeving a set of koni's (like rudeys), very simple to do and was effective for a while. The top spring cup took several modifications before a final design was sucessful. This had to be made out of steel back then to make sure it was strong enough.
We got that bit sorted but then the next weak link was the koni strut body itself. It would bend very easily where it sits in the hub.
I do appreciate that not everyone will use them off road - or be taking jumps over bridges flat out without worrying, but its nice to have the piece of mind that you could, if its ever needed. If I can't destroy them then I know pretty much for certain that anyone else can't.
I would love them to be cheaper, but as we dont have mass production facilities and everything is done by hand its a very labour intensive job so its difficult.
I change mine roughly every year or so, and have so far not even had to advertise them for sale, they keep a decent value behind them, and as I have a list of people looking for them they are still in good demand even 2nd and third hand.
Can't see that with many other makes.
We first started off about 13 years ago by sleeving a set of koni's (like rudeys), very simple to do and was effective for a while. The top spring cup took several modifications before a final design was sucessful. This had to be made out of steel back then to make sure it was strong enough.
We got that bit sorted but then the next weak link was the koni strut body itself. It would bend very easily where it sits in the hub.
I do appreciate that not everyone will use them off road - or be taking jumps over bridges flat out without worrying, but its nice to have the piece of mind that you could, if its ever needed. If I can't destroy them then I know pretty much for certain that anyone else can't.
I would love them to be cheaper, but as we dont have mass production facilities and everything is done by hand its a very labour intensive job so its difficult.
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