FAO: Tiff.....when bleeding radiators......
27-11-2005, 12:21 PM
#4
I dont see why it makes any difference?
surely all the air is at the top of the radiator, and not anywhere near the coolant flow along the bottom, so its not going to make its way from one to the other anyway?
* Disclaimer, i know nothing about houses pretty much, its purely a guess, please ignore me *
surely all the air is at the top of the radiator, and not anywhere near the coolant flow along the bottom, so its not going to make its way from one to the other anyway?
* Disclaimer, i know nothing about houses pretty much, its purely a guess, please ignore me *
27-11-2005, 12:23 PM
#5
just finding my feet
i was thinking that the air lock may cause the water not to flow as well, get rid of the air lock as close as poss would help the water to flow more freeer and make the rads air lock on the others quicker
oh and for the record i have NEVER needed to bleed a rad in my life, ive had a new boiler ect last year but they never needed rebled
, does this mean it might be worth while
oh and for the record i have NEVER needed to bleed a rad in my life, ive had a new boiler ect last year but they never needed rebled
, does this mean it might be worth while
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27-11-2005, 12:26 PM
#8
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does not matter that much but
turn off boiler and pump.
if 2 floors do ground floor first.
Leave heating on at max on boiler for about 2 hours ( you do this because when the water temp in the rads get to 65 the air in the water will seperate and gather in the top of your rads again )and then switch off including pump and go round and re bleed rads.
then switch back on and set boiler and programmer back to your normall settings
If you follow that you should be ok
turn off boiler and pump.
if 2 floors do ground floor first.
Leave heating on at max on boiler for about 2 hours ( you do this because when the water temp in the rads get to 65 the air in the water will seperate and gather in the top of your rads again )and then switch off including pump and go round and re bleed rads.
then switch back on and set boiler and programmer back to your normall settings
If you follow that you should be ok
27-11-2005, 12:30 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by Dunccoss
does not matter that much but
turn off boiler and pump.
if 2 floors do ground floor first.
Leave heating on at max on boiler for about 2 hours ( you do this because when the water temp in the rads get to 65 the air in the water will seperate and gather in the top of your rads again )and then switch off including pump and go round and re bleed rads.
then switch back on and set boiler and programmer back to your normall settings
If you follow that you should be ok
turn off boiler and pump.
if 2 floors do ground floor first.
Leave heating on at max on boiler for about 2 hours ( you do this because when the water temp in the rads get to 65 the air in the water will seperate and gather in the top of your rads again )and then switch off including pump and go round and re bleed rads.
then switch back on and set boiler and programmer back to your normall settings
If you follow that you should be ok
27-11-2005, 12:30 PM
#13
Chasing Radders
Originally Posted by chip-3door
Just noticed I referred to the water in the system as "coolant" in my post.
Definately too car focussed
Definately too car focussed
27-11-2005, 12:35 PM
#14
Originally Posted by TIFF-C20WTH
Originally Posted by chip-3door
Just noticed I referred to the water in the system as "coolant" in my post.
Definately too car focussed
Definately too car focussed
27-11-2005, 12:46 PM
#15
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doug if you are having to bleed the system every week then you have a problem, after you bleed them this time
try turning the pump down to a lower setting ( this if on the pump and if new will be from 1 to 3 )most people leave on 3 but this can cause problems on older systems as the new pumps are stronger than the old one it replaced and can pump water in to your expanshion tank in the loft doing this brings fresh water down in to your heating system and with that also air which ends up in your rads, so if you can turn pump down a setting and try that as long as all your rads get warm the pump will be fine set at this.
ps have you got an old system ?
try turning the pump down to a lower setting ( this if on the pump and if new will be from 1 to 3 )most people leave on 3 but this can cause problems on older systems as the new pumps are stronger than the old one it replaced and can pump water in to your expanshion tank in the loft doing this brings fresh water down in to your heating system and with that also air which ends up in your rads, so if you can turn pump down a setting and try that as long as all your rads get warm the pump will be fine set at this.
ps have you got an old system ?
27-11-2005, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Dunccoss
doug if you are having to bleed the system every week then you have a problem, after you bleed them this time
try turning the pump down to a lower setting ( this if on the pump and if new will be from 1 to 3 )most people leave on 3 but this can cause problems on older systems as the new pumps are stronger than the old one it replaced and can pump water in to your expanshion tank in the loft doing this brings fresh water down in to your heating system and with that also air which ends up in your rads, so if you can turn pump down a setting and try that as long as all your rads get warm the pump will be fine set at this.
ps have you got an old system ?
try turning the pump down to a lower setting ( this if on the pump and if new will be from 1 to 3 )most people leave on 3 but this can cause problems on older systems as the new pumps are stronger than the old one it replaced and can pump water in to your expanshion tank in the loft doing this brings fresh water down in to your heating system and with that also air which ends up in your rads, so if you can turn pump down a setting and try that as long as all your rads get warm the pump will be fine set at this.
ps have you got an old system ?
27-11-2005, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Dunccoss
doug is it a sealed system because if it is forget what i said in my post above
27-11-2005, 01:07 PM
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well doug just turn the pump down one on the boiler you might find that helps and as far as the tank i would say its evaration as well just make shure the tank is about half full and check the temp and level in the tank once the heating has been one for about 2 hours, if the water is hot then you have found your problem
27-11-2005, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Dunccoss
well doug just turn the pump down one on the boiler you might find that helps and as far as the tank i would say its evaration as well just make shure the tank is about half full and check the temp and level in the tank once the heating has been one for about 2 hours, if the water is hot then you have found your problem
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