View Poll Results: Are Turbo timers worth having
Voters: 13. You may not vote on this poll
Turbo Timers ?? Yes or No
16-11-2005, 07:55 PM
#2
just finding my feet
id say defo yes, i would never be without mine as all i do is start the car and set it for 10 mins, go back indoors and finish me coffee and when i go back to the car the heaters all work 
very wierd though at first leaving the car with the engine running and for the first week you will just stand there looking at the car till it stops
but the old tossers who tell you " sorry but are you aware you have left your car running" soon become anoying
very wierd though at first leaving the car with the engine running and for the first week you will just stand there looking at the car till it stops
but the old tossers who tell you " sorry but are you aware you have left your car running" soon become anoying
16-11-2005, 07:57 PM
#3
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Originally Posted by b19bal
very wierd though at first leaving the car with the engine running and for the first week you will just stand there looking at the car till it stops
HOW TRUE IS THAT!!!!
16-11-2005, 08:00 PM
#5
starting car on cold mornings and leaving to idle - bad
ragging fuck out of, stopping and leaving to idle then turn off - bad
cold mornings car should be started, given a few seconds then driven to get heat up as quick as possible....idling until warm is not the way to do that.
and for shut down, just don't be ragging it for the last few mins of the journey. no need to idle then, and besides leaving it idling gets it hotter after a ragging anyway
ragging fuck out of, stopping and leaving to idle then turn off - bad
cold mornings car should be started, given a few seconds then driven to get heat up as quick as possible....idling until warm is not the way to do that.
and for shut down, just don't be ragging it for the last few mins of the journey. no need to idle then, and besides leaving it idling gets it hotter after a ragging anyway
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16-11-2005, 08:04 PM
#8
just finding my feet
not really as if they manage to get past my 2 sperate imobilisers, cat 1 alarm, steering lock, gearbox lock and tracker theres a safe bet im never gonna get it back for the insurance company to ask
"whats that turbo timer doing in the car then"
"whats that turbo timer doing in the car then"
16-11-2005, 08:07 PM
#9
just finding my feet
explain to me the difference with letting a engine idle to warm up and driving it gentle to warm up please, tech stuff and the problems that it causes, not a " cause its shite" reply 
never had a issue with my turbo timer and the engine bending 3 rods has fuck all to do with that either
oh and my cars insurance cert aint invalid either
never had a issue with my turbo timer and the engine bending 3 rods has fuck all to do with that either
oh and my cars insurance cert aint invalid either
16-11-2005, 09:04 PM
#10
topic on it a few weeks ago, sure you've heard the advert 75% (or whatever) of all engine wear happens from cold. hence you need to get the engine to temp. as quick as possible.
just cos its only idling at 1000rpm doesnt mean its not being damaged, run a search.
(obviously driving gets heat up quicker than idle, if you've noticed idle takes an age to move the oil temp needle)
says who, your insurer or you?
just cos its only idling at 1000rpm doesnt mean its not being damaged, run a search.
(obviously driving gets heat up quicker than idle, if you've noticed idle takes an age to move the oil temp needle)
oh and my cars insurance cert aint invalid either
I went out to find a system that could offer a timer but also retain the Insurance Thatcham cert -
So went for a professional installation of a G5 650 system with dual zone alarm, turbo timer, intelligent engine start and remote boot release - what was surprising is that the whole system is still warranted as a Thatcham Cat one system as all the parts have been certified by Thatcham -
For example these are how they gave the certification:
When using intelligent start mode the doors are still locked until owner unlocks - however if entry is gained by a third party and they press any peddle the engine will cut.
Boot release can only operate if the alarm is disarmed.
Turbo timer uses the same principle as the intelligent start.
All systems can be re-programmed by the owner/user, the Intelligent start if engaged will start the car should the ambient temp drop below a preset temp level, or if the car batt voltage drops against a pre-set level.
You have all the normal features such as microwave interior alarm (switchable), immobiliser system, valet setting for working on the car etc, remote central locking, power save function etc.
This system has been offered with a life time warranty and should your car be stolen the company will pay you Ł250 to cover insurance excess - I dont have excess anyway so not sure how that will work.
Anyway I watch each phase of fitment, two men started to fit at 10:00 and finished at 19:00 - Im an engineer and was very impressed with the quality of wiring etc.
Price - Ł700
So went for a professional installation of a G5 650 system with dual zone alarm, turbo timer, intelligent engine start and remote boot release - what was surprising is that the whole system is still warranted as a Thatcham Cat one system as all the parts have been certified by Thatcham -
For example these are how they gave the certification:
When using intelligent start mode the doors are still locked until owner unlocks - however if entry is gained by a third party and they press any peddle the engine will cut.
Boot release can only operate if the alarm is disarmed.
Turbo timer uses the same principle as the intelligent start.
All systems can be re-programmed by the owner/user, the Intelligent start if engaged will start the car should the ambient temp drop below a preset temp level, or if the car batt voltage drops against a pre-set level.
You have all the normal features such as microwave interior alarm (switchable), immobiliser system, valet setting for working on the car etc, remote central locking, power save function etc.
This system has been offered with a life time warranty and should your car be stolen the company will pay you Ł250 to cover insurance excess - I dont have excess anyway so not sure how that will work.
Anyway I watch each phase of fitment, two men started to fit at 10:00 and finished at 19:00 - Im an engineer and was very impressed with the quality of wiring etc.
Price - Ł700
16-11-2005, 09:09 PM
#11
am looking for the post but from the man in the know...Alex (J871yhk) :
warm up...
wait 30 seconds (or 1 min in winter) and drive off keeping off boost and revs between 2k and 3k (don't under rev it!).
cool down...
Drive gently 15 seconds then switch off.
If you can't (say motorway and into the services) give it a minute or two at most!
Alex
wait 30 seconds (or 1 min in winter) and drive off keeping off boost and revs between 2k and 3k (don't under rev it!).
cool down...
Drive gently 15 seconds then switch off.
If you can't (say motorway and into the services) give it a minute or two at most!
Alex
16-11-2005, 09:11 PM
#12
just finding my feet
sure you've heard the advert 75% (or whatever) of all engine wear happens from cold.
sorry but there was NO wear on any bearings in my engine
, maybe people are toooo paranoid about stuff and listen to too many people without seing what happensas for the insurance,,,,,,,, i havent declared the turbo timer so its still insured, the car will not be nicked with the turbo timer on hence why i got 2 seperate imobilisers
16-11-2005, 09:11 PM
#13
hmmm, think this says it all
thats what i got told by stul idle for 1 to 2 mins then drive gentle, leaving it idle is bad for oil presure
as i used to pop out start car and set turbo timer for 10 mins, pop back in and finish my Tea, when i heard the alarm going off then i pop out and the car was all warm including heaters
fook me did i use petroll that way though
leaving the car is the same, dont rag the car and leave idle, rag the car THEN drive gentle unltill the temps are normal then park and leave to idle for 2 mins
str8 from the horses mouth so to speak?
Originally Posted by b19bal
Originally Posted by Alloy
The best thing to do is let the car idle for about two minute's to get some heat into the engine, then drive of slowly using a short shift method of changing gear until the car is at it's best operating temperature.
as i used to pop out start car and set turbo timer for 10 mins, pop back in and finish my Tea, when i heard the alarm going off then i pop out and the car was all warm including heaters
fook me did i use petroll that way though
leaving the car is the same, dont rag the car and leave idle, rag the car THEN drive gentle unltill the temps are normal then park and leave to idle for 2 mins
str8 from the horses mouth so to speak?
16-11-2005, 09:14 PM
#14
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Originally Posted by ballin
starting car on cold mornings and leaving to idle - bad
ragging fuck out of, stopping and leaving to idle then turn off - bad
ragging fuck out of, stopping and leaving to idle then turn off - bad
16-11-2005, 09:16 PM
#16
just finding my feet
now as much as alex has forgot more about engines than i know about life
most cossie engines last 20k at most
not enough for engine wear i promise you
most cossie engines last 20k at most
not enough for engine wear i promise you
16-11-2005, 09:17 PM
#18
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LOL @ Bad for oil pressure. I always leave mine idling for 10 - 15 mins before driving, and my oil pressure is more than good enough (for a CVH) and that's with a huge oil cooler.
Someone is talking bollox me thinks
Someone is talking bollox me thinks
16-11-2005, 09:19 PM
#19
just finding my feet
yeah but in reality the only thing i foudn was shite petrol but ive got a shite cold start map in my cossie as stu wassnt aware at the time when i took the cossie away 
16-11-2005, 09:24 PM
#20
just finding my feet
Originally Posted by Tony Turbo
LOL @ Bad for oil pressure. I always leave mine idling for 10 - 15 mins before driving, and my oil pressure is more than good enough (for a CVH) and that's with a huge oil cooler.
Someone is talking bollox me thinks
Someone is talking bollox me thinks
what do cossies idle at and why is that
someone doesnt understand and so is confused and assuming people are dumb me thinks
anyway even though thats what i was told, i have noticed ive got no visable bearing wear on my engine and the worn little ends turned out to be bent rods and considering i done that for over 7 months EVERYDAY # TIMES A DAY MIN im thinking that the wear it does is sooooo small its not worth considering as something else will let goe first anyway
16-11-2005, 09:31 PM
#21
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[quote="b19bal"]
Is that a question? I find your lack of grammer confusing....
If it is;
I don't know what a wanky CVH idles at as I have never had one...
Mine used to idle at 950rpm and got around 1.8kpa @ idle @ 90degress. I do not know what a YB idles at, but I would guess it is around 1000rpm.
Originally Posted by Tony Turbo
sorry tone but wanky CVH engines idle at what rpm
what do cossies idle at and why is that
what do cossies idle at and why is that
Is that a question?
I find your lack of grammer confusing....If it is;
I don't know what a wanky CVH idles at as I have never had one...
Mine used to idle at 950rpm and got around 1.8kpa @ idle @ 90degress. I do not know what a YB idles at, but I would guess it is around 1000rpm.
16-11-2005, 09:37 PM
#22
just finding my feet
never had a CVH tony thats a high idle aint it for a cvh, a cossie idles at 9500 to alow to keep correct oil presure, lower is bad in them engines
and the reference to the wanky CVH is cause ive just bought another one so kind of a private joke and not a dig at your motor
16-11-2005, 09:41 PM
#24
just finding my feet
oh and EVERY CAR IVE EVER OWNED apart from my cossie has been a CVH
i currantly own a escort cabrio with a cvh and just bought another one for me tennis cabrio
and ive owned 4 escort cabrios, 1 rs turbo, 1 orion turbo, 2 orion ghias, 1 xr3i and a xr2
and at the moment i own 1 orion 1600E efi escort cabrio and a tennis cabrio
fair to say ive had a car with a cvh engine before in that list
i currantly own a escort cabrio with a cvh and just bought another one for me tennis cabrio
and ive owned 4 escort cabrios, 1 rs turbo, 1 orion turbo, 2 orion ghias, 1 xr3i and a xr2
and at the moment i own 1 orion 1600E efi escort cabrio and a tennis cabrio
fair to say ive had a car with a cvh engine before in that list
16-11-2005, 09:54 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by b19bal
never had a CVH tony thats a high idle aint it for a cvh, a cossie idles at 9500 to alow to keep correct oil presure, lower is bad in them engines
I said I have never had a wanky one
And 9500 idle. That's mental, is it an F1 car?
My engine now idles at over 1100rpm for other reasons, and oil pressure around 1.9 kpa. 950rpm is factory idle setting for an RST
16-11-2005, 09:59 PM
#27
just finding my feet
ok NOW i get what ya ment
see when you type need to include more emotions i think
is a cvh ment to idle at 950, i really thought it was ment to idle at 800 for some reason
prob why my orion and cabrio seem shit at that RPM and they both idle at 1000rpm, i thought is was cause MY wanky CVH engines are fooked
see when you type need to include more emotions i think
is a cvh ment to idle at 950, i really thought it was ment to idle at 800 for some reason
prob why my orion and cabrio seem shit at that RPM and they both idle at 1000rpm, i thought is was cause MY wanky CVH engines are fooked
16-11-2005, 10:45 PM
#30
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You can set idles speed at what ever you want!!
The reason why the car should be allowed to idle for a minute or 2 then driven gently up to temperature is to first allow plenty of oil to get round the engine, then by driving it, you increase the flow of oil, warm up the gear box as well as allowing the oil temperature to increase to optimum temp as well as the coolant.
I don't care what anyone says, turbo timers are a gimmick to make lazy people part with money.
The reason why the car should be allowed to idle for a minute or 2 then driven gently up to temperature is to first allow plenty of oil to get round the engine, then by driving it, you increase the flow of oil, warm up the gear box as well as allowing the oil temperature to increase to optimum temp as well as the coolant.
I don't care what anyone says, turbo timers are a gimmick to make lazy people part with money.
17-11-2005, 07:57 AM
#32
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Originally Posted by Gav Diamond
Originally Posted by b19bal
a cossie idles at 9500 to alow to keep correct oil presure, lower is bad in them engines
Dazc
Well call me lazy as i want one
17-11-2005, 08:50 AM
#34
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Originally Posted by Mike Rainbird
It is ILLEGAL to leave a car engine running while the vehicle is unoccupied. Simple as.
Driving off boost for the last few miles of a journey allowing the oil to cool down will do more than leaving a car running for a couple of minutes!
TT's are as useful as those autometer AFR gauges that use the standard Lambda sensors
17-11-2005, 08:56 AM
#35
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[quote="rsnissan"]
I do have some uses
Originally Posted by Mike Rainbird
TT's are as useful as those autometer AFR gauges that use the standard Lambda sensors
I do have some uses
17-11-2005, 08:59 AM
#36
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[quote="Tony Turbo"]
I do have some uses
make us a cuppa then
Originally Posted by rsnissan
Originally Posted by Mike Rainbird
TT's are as useful as those autometer AFR gauges that use the standard Lambda sensors
I do have some uses
17-11-2005, 09:24 AM
#38
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Originally Posted by RichardPON
Originally Posted by b19bal
most cossie engines last 20k at most
cheeRS gary
AKA shrek
ps and i had no turbo timer
.
17-11-2005, 09:36 AM
#40
just finding my feet
Originally Posted by RichardPON
Originally Posted by b19bal
most cossie engines last 20k at most
most are down to being old ect, just stating that my turbo timer has done NO DAMAGE to my engine, i ONLY use mine to warm the heaters up on cold winters mornings though as i always let my car cool down before i stop and never rag the car till ive been using it for a long time
also on that basis ive got mates who rag there cars when cold and never had issues with em letting go when cold, they all seem to let go when backing off after racing people
to prove my theory how many people on here have rebuilt cossie engines due to meltdown ect
how many people just rebuild there cossies as there seeming tired too ect
it was just to say that turbo timers are not the cause of most cossie engines failing, not that they all die when standard ect
also considering most cossies do max of 10k a year now as there second cars means that after 2 years theres usually a new owner