Got some new 330mm brakes delivered today*pics*
26-10-2005, 12:58 PM
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Got some new 330mm brakes delivered today*pics*
Just had these dropped off (compbrake kit 2wd cossie)
Getting fitted this afternoon hopefully
Simon.
Getting fitted this afternoon hopefully Simon.
26-10-2005, 04:19 PM
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Only managed to fit one side as they sent me 1 bracket for a 2wd & 1 for a 4wd 
, should get the right one tommorrow, we will see. 
They fitted ok under 17'' Wolfrace silverstones (same as hockenheim R wheels).
Simon.
, should get the right one tommorrow, we will see. They fitted ok under 17'' Wolfrace silverstones (same as hockenheim R wheels).
Simon.
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28-10-2005, 09:43 PM
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Managed to fit the other side last night but i think i must have a bit of air in the system as the pedal is a bit spongy ! trying to bleed brakes on your own isn't very easy, so i can't tell you what their like yet. One question for people running braided brake hoses, routed mine round the strut & checked it lock to lock on axle stands & it didn't stress the hose. When its on the deck though & you put it onto full lock it pulls the hose bar tight 
& doesn't look very safe to me,see pics of hose routed, have i routed it incorrectly.
Simon.
& doesn't look very safe to me,see pics of hose routed, have i routed it incorrectly.Simon.
28-10-2005, 10:09 PM
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Thats what i thought Steve, think its going to be off the road for a few days as i'm well busy over the next few days. Just need to find the time to undo the hoses re route & bleed the system properly.
Simon
Simon
29-10-2005, 12:09 AM
#20
As above Simon - send it round this side of the strut
Also put 1 cable tie round the strut, and 1 cable tie round the braided hose, then loosely cable tie the two together. Leave the tie on the hose a slightly loose fit, so on either droop or bump it can physically slip up and down.
Other option is to fit a gromet into the bracket at the back of the strut and pass the hose through it. You do this by cutting the gromet then whilst still clean just superglue it back together
Petrucci... the 'open top' racing 4 pots (allows more heat to escape).
and the disc mounting bells...
The 6 pot caliper looks just as stunning too
Also put 1 cable tie round the strut, and 1 cable tie round the braided hose, then loosely cable tie the two together. Leave the tie on the hose a slightly loose fit, so on either droop or bump it can physically slip up and down.
Other option is to fit a gromet into the bracket at the back of the strut and pass the hose through it. You do this by cutting the gromet then whilst still clean just superglue it back together
Petrucci... the 'open top' racing 4 pots (allows more heat to escape).
and the disc mounting bells...
The 6 pot caliper looks just as stunning too
far too much else to buy in the mean time 
29-10-2005, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Bosch-Man
Stuart actually that is the correct way!!!!!The grooves on the surface that is...if the other bit is wrong i'd be surprised 
Guys???
Guys???Never go on the face groove direction as its the internal vanes that matter and those are fitted the wrong way.
Yes I agree with you that the external face grooves should go in that direction as thats what AP choose to but the face grooves won't really make any difference.
Looks a nice kit by the way
29-10-2005, 02:18 PM
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One of our custmers races an M3 in Kumho BMW championships and did a whole season with his discs fitted the wrong way
Look a good kit, how long do they last before seizing up with no dust shields for road use?
Look a good kit, how long do they last before seizing up with no dust shields for road use?
29-10-2005, 03:33 PM
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Yes but did the championship winner have his discs fitted around the right way? 
My AP race calipers lasted 9 years before i had a piston stick and that was mainly due to a build up of aggresive brake dust from DS3000 and PFC83's rather than road debris.
If you clean the pistons (fully extended without loss of fluid) every time you change pads, then you shouldn't have a problem.
AP told me that their own dyno testing of discs made no real difference what direction they were rotated in with regard to cooling.
If you have brake air ducts with very close fitting shrouds around the eye of the disc then i'd expect a noticeable drop in disc temperature otherwise its all a bit pointless.
My AP race calipers lasted 9 years before i had a piston stick and that was mainly due to a build up of aggresive brake dust from DS3000 and PFC83's rather than road debris.
If you clean the pistons (fully extended without loss of fluid) every time you change pads, then you shouldn't have a problem.
AP told me that their own dyno testing of discs made no real difference what direction they were rotated in with regard to cooling.
If you have brake air ducts with very close fitting shrouds around the eye of the disc then i'd expect a noticeable drop in disc temperature otherwise its all a bit pointless.
29-10-2005, 10:51 PM
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Brakes all bled & working great, won't really know what their like compared to my old brakes until i do another trackday at Brands.
Stu , i can assure the discs are fitted on the correct sides, they have curved vanes which need to point fowards, they face the same direction as the grooves on the disc.
My kit was Ł640 inc postage + hoses & fluid on top of that, think they have gone up in price now to Ł695 on e bay, good kit for the money.
Simon.
Stu , i can assure the discs are fitted on the correct sides, they have curved vanes which need to point fowards, they face the same direction as the grooves on the disc.
My kit was Ł640 inc postage + hoses & fluid on top of that, think they have gone up in price now to Ł695 on e bay, good kit for the money.
Simon.
29-10-2005, 11:07 PM
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Pedal feels ok, brakes are very progressive but they really do bite well if you try hard braking, as said won't really get a good chance to use them to their potental until my next track outing.
Simon.
Simon.
30-10-2005, 10:14 AM
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i won't do track AFAIC, i only do "fast" road... 
i imagine they are a lot more stable when braking than standard Escos brakes (that gives this impression of shaking when braking hard) ?
i imagine they are a lot more stable when braking than standard Escos brakes (that gives this impression of shaking when braking hard) ?
30-10-2005, 06:18 PM
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cheers Simon, i've never heard of any brake company doing it the opposite way to all the others but if thats what CompBrake suggests then fair enough!
Certainly sounds a very good value kit
Certainly sounds a very good value kit
30-10-2005, 06:39 PM
#39
Originally Posted by Bosch-Man
...i was gonna get this kit but opted to spend over double on AP's.....you get what you pay for and this is a cracking budget kit for a better than std scenario
Actually Phil they are a little bit better than that mate,being open design they do tend to flex a little but like Tony says they do dissipate heat very well and are not a million miles behind the AP`s by any means..
Much better than budget quality for tight budget money...