Thanks to the Nurburgring, i have begun the slide........
15-09-2005, 09:17 PM
#43
Dont worry about Gus, hes a misserable fooker 
James, the whole lot is just bolted on to check it all fits as there is only 5though clearance in teh wheels and ive had to take the wheel weights off
there are more brakes, brake pads, lines and other stuff arriving tomorrow as well as some arch mods that need doing before she will be leaving the workshop and im having to wait for new mounting bolts as i didnt want to reuse the ones that came with it. 
Top marks for noticing though i suppose, i best make sure when i fit em all tomorrow i take great care not to earn a
James, the whole lot is just bolted on to check it all fits as there is only 5though clearance in teh wheels and ive had to take the wheel weights off
there are more brakes, brake pads, lines and other stuff arriving tomorrow as well as some arch mods that need doing before she will be leaving the workshop and im having to wait for new mounting bolts as i didnt want to reuse the ones that came with it. Top marks for noticing though i suppose, i best make sure when i fit em all tomorrow i take great care not to earn a
15-09-2005, 11:11 PM
#47
about time pal 
you know my thoughts on brakes, i wil keep an eye open for some transmission goodies for ya !
looks cool mate - oh , and ive got some 'real' tyres if your interested mate - road legal, non of this 'road tyre shit tho'
you know the score
you know my thoughts on brakes, i wil keep an eye open for some transmission goodies for ya !
looks cool mate - oh , and ive got some 'real' tyres if your interested mate - road legal, non of this 'road tyre shit tho'
you know the score
15-09-2005, 11:53 PM
#50
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Most AP Racing Brake Discs feature Curved Vanes. The brake discs are handed and should be installed with the cooling vanes running back from the inside to outside diameters in the direction of rotation as indicated in the sketch.
15-09-2005, 11:54 PM
#51
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Originally Posted by Damo V
Most AP Racing Brake Discs feature Curved Vanes. The brake discs are handed and should be installed with the cooling vanes running back from the inside to outside diameters in the direction of rotation as indicated in the sketch.
16-09-2005, 07:17 AM
#57
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Originally Posted by Turbosystems
It would look better with gold wheels ,since Mike has put gold wheels on his car sales have hit an all time low
White wheels on a dark car makes it look like a nissan pulsar
White wheels on a dark car makes it look like a nissan pulsar
you are too busy lookin for blind dates!!!!!!!!
16-09-2005, 07:40 AM
#60
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Originally Posted by Mike Rainbird
Originally Posted by Taz
you are too busy lookin for blind dates!!!!!!!!
!
16-09-2005, 07:43 AM
#61
PassionFord Post Troll
Boom Boom!
Take my mother-in-law, ...........................no, go on take her right away! I'm trying to get rid of her.....
Are you turning into Bernard Righton Mike??!!
Take my mother-in-law, ...........................no, go on take her right away! I'm trying to get rid of her.....
Are you turning into Bernard Righton Mike??!!
16-09-2005, 10:11 AM
#63
Originally Posted by James Raby
Looks mega bling, gotta love AP's
btw, discs on wrong way round
btw, discs on wrong way round
16-09-2005, 10:37 AM
#66
Team HOTHOT!
Originally Posted by Taz
Originally Posted by Graceland
time for me to get some new rotors too - wobble wobble
16-09-2005, 10:45 AM
#68
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Originally Posted by B11GNS
silver wheels needed or anthracite mate white looks so CHAV
well i think they look spot on Looking lovely Stu
good choice of wheel lol
16-09-2005, 11:00 AM
#69
Team HOTHOT!
Originally Posted by Taz
I thought about the Bremsport kit as well but ended up with Kev Sharps old 330 AP's......what pads do you use?
G
G
however, whatever pads they are, i'll be having another set - they didnt fade once in 9 laps
16-09-2005, 11:36 AM
#71
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Originally Posted by Graceland
however, whatever pads they are, i'll be having another set - they didnt fade once in 9 laps
Its not pads that cause brake fade, its air getting in the brake lines when your brake oil gets too hot
16-09-2005, 11:41 AM
#73
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Originally Posted by Clare
Originally Posted by Graceland
however, whatever pads they are, i'll be having another set - they didnt fade once in 9 laps
Its not pads that cause brake fade, its air getting in the brake lines when your brake oil gets too hot
Prepare to have one of these
Brake fade is a term used to describe the deterioration in the ability of brakes to slow the car. You will know that your car is suffering because you have to press the brake pedal progressively harder to get the car to slow down.
There are three types of fade.
The most common happens with new brake pads, an effect called green fade. Brake pads are a complex mix of fillers, lubricants, fibres and a binder resin that holds the whole lot together. Because some of the contents are organic they will, under intense heat, turn to gas. If the brakes are used too hard before they are fully cured enough gas can be produced to act as a cushion between the pad and the disc, reducing friction substantially.
Most modern pads come pre-baked in order to try to remove the potential for this gas build-up, but gentle use of new pads in the first 100 miles or so is the best way to ensure the pads are fully cured.
Overheating of the pads through hard use also produces the second type of fade. When too hot, the resin can melt and act like a lubricant between pads and disc. As with green fade, the pedal action doesnt become any spongier it feels as firm as always, but the braking effect is considerably reduced.
The third form of brake fade is fluid fade. When this happens the brake pedal does become spongy, and sometimes you can push the pedal to the floor with little effect. It is caused by boiling brake fluid.
Brake fluid is hydroscopic, meaning it absorbs water from the air very easily. The more it absorbs, the further its boiling point drops, until it falls low enough to be boiled by heat from the brake. This creates gas bubbles in the brake lines and pressing the pedal simply compresses the gas without applying the brakes.
The cure is to change the brake fluid, using a replacement only from a sealed tin. Even an hours exposure to humid air is too much.
There are three types of fade.
The most common happens with new brake pads, an effect called green fade. Brake pads are a complex mix of fillers, lubricants, fibres and a binder resin that holds the whole lot together. Because some of the contents are organic they will, under intense heat, turn to gas. If the brakes are used too hard before they are fully cured enough gas can be produced to act as a cushion between the pad and the disc, reducing friction substantially.
Most modern pads come pre-baked in order to try to remove the potential for this gas build-up, but gentle use of new pads in the first 100 miles or so is the best way to ensure the pads are fully cured.
Overheating of the pads through hard use also produces the second type of fade. When too hot, the resin can melt and act like a lubricant between pads and disc. As with green fade, the pedal action doesnt become any spongier it feels as firm as always, but the braking effect is considerably reduced.
The third form of brake fade is fluid fade. When this happens the brake pedal does become spongy, and sometimes you can push the pedal to the floor with little effect. It is caused by boiling brake fluid.
Brake fluid is hydroscopic, meaning it absorbs water from the air very easily. The more it absorbs, the further its boiling point drops, until it falls low enough to be boiled by heat from the brake. This creates gas bubbles in the brake lines and pressing the pedal simply compresses the gas without applying the brakes.
The cure is to change the brake fluid, using a replacement only from a sealed tin. Even an hours exposure to humid air is too much.
16-09-2005, 11:47 AM
#76
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Stu - it would actually make a good topic, but you know me well enough to know that whilst I understand what I quoted, there's no fuckin way I wrote it!
The hydro/hygro topic is a good one actually - might explain to people the importance of looking after the fluids in the vehicle!
The hydro/hygro topic is a good one actually - might explain to people the importance of looking after the fluids in the vehicle!
16-09-2005, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Stu @ M Developments
Carefull Rich, you will need to do an essay on fluids to follow that, along with wet and dry boiling points and Hygroscopicity
In fact, maybe we should, be a good topic
In fact, maybe we should, be a good topic
ppppplllleleeeeaaaasssseeeeeee
16-09-2005, 11:51 AM
#78
The best error i see a lot, is peeps filling up with DOT 5 as its a bigger number than DOT4 and they heard it wont spoil their paint
Now DOT 5.1.. only a slightly bigger number, yet a totally and utterly different fluid...... Interesting stuff indeed, for an anorak like me.
Now DOT 5.1.. only a slightly bigger number, yet a totally and utterly different fluid...... Interesting stuff indeed, for an anorak like me.
16-09-2005, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Stu @ M Developments
Originally Posted by James Raby
Looks mega bling, gotta love AP's
btw, discs on wrong way round
btw, discs on wrong way round
Originally Posted by Damo V
Most AP Racing Brake Discs feature Curved Vanes. The brake discs are handed and should be installed with the cooling vanes running back from the inside to outside diameters in the direction of rotation as indicated in the sketch.
16-09-2005, 12:00 PM
#80
Take no notice of the deglazing grooves on the disk surface chaps as they can go either way and it really doesnt matter.
If you look at the diagram supplied, you will see the important items are the cooling VANES and these are the fins INSIDE the disk. These work just like a cooling fan and determine how cool the disk will run in use. Get it wrong and risk overheated and cracked rotors
A little knowledge is deadly as this topic proves
If you look at the diagram supplied, you will see the important items are the cooling VANES and these are the fins INSIDE the disk. These work just like a cooling fan and determine how cool the disk will run in use. Get it wrong and risk overheated and cracked rotors
A little knowledge is deadly as this topic proves