First timer's guide to Cosworth Cambelt change....
09-08-2005, 09:32 PM
#42
Originally Posted by Stu @ M Developments
One of the most important things to remember, and no ones touched on this yet, is that the tensioner MUST be done up CLOCKWISE.
like the rest of the jobs on these sierras
09-08-2005, 09:32 PM
#44
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It's the first time I've done it thanks Simon, and I'm learning. I'm sure it will be easier next time, but thanks for your concern.
Yes, you did change your own cambelt, I seem to remember. Didn't one of the pulleys come off and take out half the engine?
Yes, you did change your own cambelt, I seem to remember. Didn't one of the pulleys come off and take out half the engine?
09-08-2005, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Neil S
A bit like that!
Neil.
PON do you know how much a new lower pulley is new
...
09-08-2005, 09:38 PM
#47
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Richard, didnt mean to have a go as I know that not everyone is mechanically capable.
Everyone has there own strengths and weakness's.
Yes, you are quite correct, my cam belt tensioner fell off the engine.
This was due to the previous owner of the cylinder head had stripped the thread
off the bar that holds it to the head and had glued it in (with araldite).
Got my money back of the person who sold it to me as it was a well known person
who did the bodge.....no names .
I am paranoid as MANY people have PMed me accusing me off being this glass eye tw*t.
Dont want to argue - need sleep
Everyone has there own strengths and weakness's.
Yes, you are quite correct, my cam belt tensioner fell off the engine.
This was due to the previous owner of the cylinder head had stripped the thread
off the bar that holds it to the head and had glued it in (with araldite).
Got my money back of the person who sold it to me as it was a well known person
who did the bodge.....no names .
I am paranoid as MANY people have PMed me accusing me off being this glass eye tw*t.
Dont want to argue - need sleep
09-08-2005, 09:46 PM
#48
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Originally Posted by Damo V
Originally Posted by Neil S
A bit like that!
Neil.
PON do you know how much a new lower pulley is new
...
Damo - no, but I'm guessing a secondhand one will do just fine!
09-08-2005, 09:50 PM
#49
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You loosen (but dont remove) the crank bolt.
You take 3 of the bolts, and screw them through the brassy-coloured spider and into the pulley.
Then you tighten the big black 'un!
It pushes on the head of the crank bolt, and pulls on the pulley
Neil.
You take 3 of the bolts, and screw them through the brassy-coloured spider and into the pulley.
Then you tighten the big black 'un!
It pushes on the head of the crank bolt, and pulls on the pulley
Neil.
09-08-2005, 11:01 PM
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2wd may be different, but it actually looks like the holes have been fractured off, probably by screwing bolts in then holding aginst them with a bar while using a breaker bar on the nut
can you see the left overs of thread on the bit of pully still there??
can you see the left overs of thread on the bit of pully still there??
09-08-2005, 11:06 PM
#57
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Damo - honestly, there are NO holes there, past, present or future!
I think Gus may be closer to the mark that 2wd pulleys aint got em.
Think I need the right three legged puller for this job - only problem is the one I have has a centre bolt that is far too small.
I need something with a taper that fits the crank..............
Fookin cars
I think Gus may be closer to the mark that 2wd pulleys aint got em.
Think I need the right three legged puller for this job - only problem is the one I have has a centre bolt that is far too small.
I need something with a taper that fits the crank..............
Fookin cars
09-08-2005, 11:09 PM
#59
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Tried that - the cntre bolt of the pulley is pointed, so it just fookin wanders all over the head of the crank bolt.
That resulted in me launching it across the driveway at some impressive speeds!
That resulted in me launching it across the driveway at some impressive speeds!
09-08-2005, 11:13 PM
#61
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Think EsCos/4x4 had different poly V belt setup to earlier cars (so different pulley - can't be RSD to dig workshop manual out to confirm though but will if you'd like), so Gus is most likely correct.
but will if you'd like), so Gus is most likely correct.
09-08-2005, 11:18 PM
#64
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wind the crank pully bolt out and stick a socket over it, then stick the pulley bolt nose into the back of the socket - make sure the bolt is would out far enough so that when the socket is fully on the bolt, it isnt in contact with the face of the pully
thats how i did mine
thats how i did mine
10-08-2005, 06:00 AM
#66
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Soak it in WD40
Shock it with a big Hammer (its fooked anyway)
Spray with Freeze spray to try and shrink the pulley
Two tapered bars up from underneath between the rear of the pulley and the oil seal plate, perhaps whilst someone taps the pulley with a hammer to shock it.
Last person to fit the pulley never copperslipped the crank, in the past I have had to skim the inside of the pulley on a lathe as they seem to distort, probably by using a puller to get them off.
Pon says """I know mate - it's been in the build for over two years, so I've got to spend a day spanner checking and torqueing EVERYTHING"""
If you have been building that and the car for two years......... have you not heard of cleaning anything, that motor looks like it came out of a scrapped car
Shock it with a big Hammer (its fooked anyway)
Spray with Freeze spray to try and shrink the pulley
Two tapered bars up from underneath between the rear of the pulley and the oil seal plate, perhaps whilst someone taps the pulley with a hammer to shock it.
Last person to fit the pulley never copperslipped the crank, in the past I have had to skim the inside of the pulley on a lathe as they seem to distort, probably by using a puller to get them off.
Pon says """I know mate - it's been in the build for over two years, so I've got to spend a day spanner checking and torqueing EVERYTHING"""
If you have been building that and the car for two years......... have you not heard of cleaning anything, that motor looks like it came out of a scrapped car
10-08-2005, 06:03 AM
#67
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Originally Posted by cossy abuser
Originally Posted by Dragon
Please do it the 'PROPER' way!
Jesus fook, winding belts up over the pulleys?!!
Excellent bit of advise from RS2300 4x4
Jesus fook, winding belts up over the pulleys?!!
Excellent bit of advise from RS2300 4x4
TBA - No, you're right, I don't own a cossie anymore, thank God
10-08-2005, 07:34 AM
#68
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Be careful if you start levering at it mate - It's all too easy to smash the ally cover behind the pulley!
I'd be inclined to either:
A) Use your existing puller, put a big jubilee clip round the legs to hold them in place and stop them slipping
B) Get a harmonic balance puller, but use longer bolts with nuts and washers behind the pulley.
Good Luck!
Neil.
I'd be inclined to either:
A) Use your existing puller, put a big jubilee clip round the legs to hold them in place and stop them slipping
B) Get a harmonic balance puller, but use longer bolts with nuts and washers behind the pulley.
Good Luck!
Neil.
10-08-2005, 08:01 AM
#69
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Go to halfords they sell adjustable 3 leg pullers, I bought the small one which done the job but it was a bit fiddddlley, adjust it so that the feet just catch the front edge of the front V belt groov and again loosen the pully centre bolt so it gives the pully enough space to slide foward.
It works in the same way as the ubove puller that hs been mentioned but it uses hooked legs to grip the pully insted of the threded bolts
sorry if this has already been mentioned but I didn't reed all of the posts, just thought I would tell you what worked for me.
Also for future cam belt changes buy your self a 2" thin bladed electricians bolster take off the starter motor tie it out of the way (WATCH THE ELECTRIC CONECTIONS ON THE BACK IF YOU HAVE NOT DISCONECTED THE BATTERY) then wedge the bulster so that it jams between the fly wheel teeth and the bell housing this then locks the crank pulley solid so that you can tighten and loosen the bolt to your harts content without any movement
It works in the same way as the ubove puller that hs been mentioned but it uses hooked legs to grip the pully insted of the threded bolts
sorry if this has already been mentioned but I didn't reed all of the posts, just thought I would tell you what worked for me.
Also for future cam belt changes buy your self a 2" thin bladed electricians bolster take off the starter motor tie it out of the way (WATCH THE ELECTRIC CONECTIONS ON THE BACK IF YOU HAVE NOT DISCONECTED THE BATTERY) then wedge the bulster so that it jams between the fly wheel teeth and the bell housing this then locks the crank pulley solid so that you can tighten and loosen the bolt to your harts content without any movement
10-08-2005, 09:04 AM
#71
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Originally Posted by Dave Henshall
i managed without takin ghte bottom pulley off, if its nice and tight, leave it alone,
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.
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Originally Posted by RichardPON
Pulley's shattered now anyway
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.
10-08-2005, 10:07 AM
#73
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Simon -the engine was out of a scrapped car - my old saff
To be honest, I couldn't give a fuck about non-polished pulleys and shit like that.
As long as it runs, job's a good un!
To be honest, I couldn't give a fuck about non-polished pulleys and shit like that.
As long as it runs, job's a good un!
10-08-2005, 10:22 AM
#74
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I just wound the bolt out a few turns and put the puller on that, using my fingers and a lot of patience to keep the point on the bolt head, as my puller didn't have much free space to wind the bolt out loads.
P.S. Mine split in half too
P.S. Mine split in half too
10-08-2005, 10:33 AM
#75
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To keep the puller point in the middle of the crank bolt - take out the bolt and just drill a small mark in the middle, just enough to stop it from moving. Worked a treat on mine.
10-08-2005, 10:58 AM
#76
Rich just get some one else to do it who knows what they are doing you have spent more time talking about it than it takes to do the job.The pulley on your car is an early one later 2wd's had the 3 puller holes.The front pulley is a hormonic resonation damper 2wd's where size fit, 4x4's where interference fit.They were modified as the 2 wd's wore the pulleys subsequently there was no clamping force to hold the cambelt drive pulley and consequently all the drive load was taken by the wood ruffkey which destroyed the pullies the crank and if u were unlucky the engine . Good luck
10-08-2005, 11:27 AM
#77
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No, it's alright thanks Tony, I'll do it myself.
Unless of course you paying for it? Still I could bring it to you, but to pay the bill, I'd probably have to take a four figure loan ROFL
Unless of course you paying for it? Still I could bring it to you, but to pay the bill, I'd probably have to take a four figure loan ROFL
10-08-2005, 11:42 AM
#78
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Spray with Freeze spray to try and shrink the pulley
What a fuckin' plonker.
10-08-2005, 11:56 AM
#79
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Originally Posted by ^NUTTER^
Spray with Freeze spray to try and shrink the pulley
What a fuckin' plonker.