Split Rims!?
13-06-2005, 08:04 AM
#3
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what bolts are you on about? the holding the wheels too the hubs, or holding the outer part of the wheel too the inner?
well both need to be torqued
well both need to be torqued
13-06-2005, 08:05 AM
#4
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i specifcy gave it a bit more just to make sure I woke yer ass up! ave it! 
least my car runs!
Mikey came back & said it grips to well arse dont come out!
so he had to be shown!
so i actually gave the car some abuse & did a lil drifting! 
u missed it!
ave it! least my car runs!
Mikey came back & said it grips to well arse dont come out!
so he had to be shown!
so i actually gave the car some abuse & did a lil drifting! u missed it!
13-06-2005, 08:06 AM
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the bolts that bolt th wheel together!
is it just a case of do em up as muhc as poss gareth! or am i gunna actually have to find torque settings for them!?
is it just a case of do em up as muhc as poss gareth! or am i gunna actually have to find torque settings for them!?
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13-06-2005, 08:30 AM
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fookin shonk!
Hopefully John is gunna do my oil temp gauge today! will get him to do the zorst blow as well & then might actually play with the boost controller! but probably not as Im to lazy!
Hopefully John is gunna do my oil temp gauge today! will get him to do the zorst blow as well & then might actually play with the boost controller!
but probably not as Im to lazy!
13-06-2005, 08:43 AM
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Ok fella will give them a shout if i cant find anythin out!
google gives this address for the rims i have
www.speedstar.co.jp
but it dont load for me!?
any1 else get on it!?
google gives this address for the rims i have
www.speedstar.co.jp
but it dont load for me!?
any1 else get on it!?
13-06-2005, 08:54 AM
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13-06-2005, 05:13 PM
#22
can you let me know what comp say please lewis 
just found this from compomotive
Great care should be taken in removing the bolts ensuring that the allen key drive provides a good positive location in the fixing . Retain pressure on the fixing whilst removing the fixings to ensure the heads of the stainless bolts are not damaged
Retorquing should be 12~14 Ft/Lbs using Loctite 242 threadlocking fluid.
Tighten all bolts down first, then undo and apply Locktite to each bolt and retourqe individually opposing each other.
just found this from compomotive
Great care should be taken in removing the bolts ensuring that the allen key drive provides a good positive location in the fixing . Retain pressure on the fixing whilst removing the fixings to ensure the heads of the stainless bolts are not damaged
Retorquing should be 12~14 Ft/Lbs using Loctite 242 threadlocking fluid.
Tighten all bolts down first, then undo and apply Locktite to each bolt and retourqe individually opposing each other.
14-06-2005, 07:20 AM
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Pete this is what Mark form Comp emailed me back!
The torque setting for the fixing bolts would be based on the size and grade of
fixing used.
Our 3 piece wheels using M6 bolts are torqued 12~14 ft/lbs and the M7 fixing 14~16
ft/lbs. You could use this as a guide.
The torque setting for the fixing bolts would be based on the size and grade of
fixing used.
Our 3 piece wheels using M6 bolts are torqued 12~14 ft/lbs and the M7 fixing 14~16
ft/lbs. You could use this as a guide.
14-06-2005, 09:09 AM
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14-06-2005, 09:11 AM
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This may be a bit easier for you to read.
Metric Fasteners
Metric fasteners material, head style, and type are described in a similar manner to US fasteners. However, instead of threads per inch, the metric system uses thread pitch (the length of each thread in millimeters measured along the shaft of the bolt). The thread pitch is written between the diameter and length (both measured in millimeters) and is separated on each side by an X.
Typically the diameter of a metric bolt is preceded by a capital M to designate metric.
Example:
Class 8.8 Hex Bolt M10 x 1.5 x 20
This is a hex head bolt with a diameter of 10mm, a 1.5 thread pitch, measuring 20mm long and made of Class (grade) 8.8 steel.
Metric Fasteners
Metric fasteners material, head style, and type are described in a similar manner to US fasteners. However, instead of threads per inch, the metric system uses thread pitch (the length of each thread in millimeters measured along the shaft of the bolt). The thread pitch is written between the diameter and length (both measured in millimeters) and is separated on each side by an X.
Typically the diameter of a metric bolt is preceded by a capital M to designate metric.
Example:
Class 8.8 Hex Bolt M10 x 1.5 x 20
This is a hex head bolt with a diameter of 10mm, a 1.5 thread pitch, measuring 20mm long and made of Class (grade) 8.8 steel.
14-06-2005, 09:54 AM
#33
The correct torque setting for the bolt is the key thing, not for the wheel.
I used to run some *really* lightweight splits on my mini trackday toy i used to have, and the wheels were so on the limit for strength (they redesigned an existing wheel with two less bolts to save weight) that they used to reguarly pop the bolts off as you were driving along.
You would hear them ping off as you were driving along, then you have to stop the car, jump out with some extra bolts and torque to 17lbft then off you go again.
I used to run some *really* lightweight splits on my mini trackday toy i used to have, and the wheels were so on the limit for strength (they redesigned an existing wheel with two less bolts to save weight) that they used to reguarly pop the bolts off as you were driving along.
You would hear them ping off as you were driving along, then you have to stop the car, jump out with some extra bolts and torque to 17lbft then off you go again.
14-06-2005, 10:38 AM
#36
Scared the shit out of me the first time it happened, i had only just installed the engine id built for it and was still running it in.
i was driving up the M5 at about 60mph or soand heard "ting" and the distincive sound of a bolt bouncing off the car.
I thought "oh, what a coont, must have left a loose bolt in the engine bay, thats not like me, oh well...."
Then a minute later "ting" and same noise, then a few seconds after another one, then another.
No way that was healthy so quickly pulled over and one front wheel was missing a third of its bolts and a couple missing from the other (shows how exactly they are made that both failed together like that)
So after that i had to make sure i always had a small torque wrench and a set of bolts with me just in case
And at coombe etc i always checked them every session obviously.
Awesome wheels though
i was driving up the M5 at about 60mph or soand heard "ting" and the distincive sound of a bolt bouncing off the car.
I thought "oh, what a coont, must have left a loose bolt in the engine bay, thats not like me, oh well...."
Then a minute later "ting" and same noise, then a few seconds after another one, then another.
No way that was healthy so quickly pulled over and one front wheel was missing a third of its bolts and a couple missing from the other (shows how exactly they are made that both failed together like that)
So after that i had to make sure i always had a small torque wrench and a set of bolts with me just in case
And at coombe etc i always checked them every session obviously.
Awesome wheels though
14-06-2005, 10:53 AM
#39
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it was only the tyres that were off a terrano!
but yea seen a lot of 200sx with the skyline rims on so least there aint many sets of them splittys around in the UK!
but yea seen a lot of 200sx with the skyline rims on so least there aint many sets of them splittys around in the UK!