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General Car Related Discussion.To discuss anything that is related to cars and automotive technology that doesnt naturally fit into another forum catagory.
i made my current twin scroll manifold from stainless sch10 elbows, a Nortech billet collector and mild steel flange. used 12mm mild steel for the flange to make it easy to linish off to flatten if it warped (which is did!).
i'd like to know if pro built fully stainless still warp over time
cracked once where the runners are welded onto the flange (used the correct filler etc) but been fine since adding small gussetts
You don’t usually pre heat for TIG, but can inert purge.
You usually have to stress relieve after welding has been done.
i did my last manifold I built and had no issues with it
You don’t usually pre heat for TIG, but can inert purge.
You usually have to stress relieve after welding has been done.
i did my last manifold I built and had no issues with it
Mark has texted the same just now, runners welded before welding to flanges to stress relieve and purge welded...I think I offended him with my corner weight joke as he told me it’s lighter than my one lol.
He said the lobster was to get the right bends.
some people like lobster tails, I do as opposed to rubber inlets but I know it’s marmite to some.
One i made for my nova from a Nissan 200sx manifold
Then heated it with oxyacetylene to stress relieve.
I just think the lobster back looks abit busy and less welds the better usually, can they be done without? And any on escort cos as wondering if they allow fitment of standard heat shield.
Hopefully Dave can sort something but the MK ones are a good price
The less welds the better imo but then again people are now just using cheap sch10 tubing as its thick walled and anyone with half decent tig skills can weld it blindfolded as you can do multipul runs if you like . The real skill is using thin walled tubing and making it last the test of time.
In my manifolds I try to use long mandrel bends ( which cost more ) with as few welds as possible , fully back purged , 12.5 degree merge collectors with slip on joints which are welded , 12mm stainless steel exhaust and turbo flanges all bolted down to a jig when welded and only ever had one come back which was the first one I built . They are also as close to equal length as possible .
Last edited by zetaboostboy522bhp; 14-02-2019 at 09:32 PM.
It was quite fast on the road as didn’t weigh much.
Once you can TIG weld anything other than aluminium is fairly easy to weld and looks a good job.
as you say thin wall takes abit more skill trying to keep the heat back etc and not let the bead run away from you much like aluminium.
its amazing how much better internal welds are when purged to keep the impurities out.
Do you make YB twin scroll manifolds at all?
It was quite fast on the road as didn’t weigh much.
Once you can TIG weld anything other than aluminium is fairly easy to weld and looks a good job.
as you say thin wall takes abit more skill trying to keep the heat back etc and not let the bead run away from you much like aluminium.
its amazing how much better internal welds are when purged to keep the impurities out.
Do you make YB twin scroll manifolds at all?
i tend to make zetec turbo manifolds but could make any oneoffs etc tbh .
thankyou , they do the part as well as the white cam cover is Luca green fiesta turbo which has been dragged , tracked and top speed run so been put through its paces
Sch10 was used on mine ..equal lenth makes a difference to spooling the Turbo I believe .
I know a CVH is a lot different ..but mine did a genuine 253bhp and 303ftlb at 1bar .. which I'm told is very good for a 1.6 cvh ..wonder what a good set up YB does with a good equal length? Surely a well worthy mod .
People have been using Sch10 type pipe for decades for manifolds.
I used the regular steel/cast stuff over 20 years ago myself. Stainless is just fancier lol.
They're readily available, they're strong, they work. So they make perfect sense.
But by fuck you need some patience to build some manifolds ! lol. These days I'd much prefer to pay someone who's good at it, especially if it's a common piece and not very custom.
Could well be Toby.
I have a turbo now and just ordering all the other little bits inc a plenum spacer etc
Just need to decide on manifold, is your one the MAD spec one Toby that runs slightly lower than a stock Nortech?
Good cost saving on the MK one but keep thinking the runners have better support on the Nortech as they go into the flange ie
Sorry Nortech one top Mk bottom
Last edited by dan le moignan; 23-02-2019 at 09:20 PM.
Hi Guys , looking into an efr for my yb, and will need a manifold for a t4 twin scroll.
so very interested to what is available.
Dan le moignan, did you build this manifold or bought it ? do you have other pics that show the whole runners lenghts?
Hi none are myne as in same boat as you at the moment.
Running EFR on Escort Cosworth with objective being fitment of the standard turbo heat shield
Also as strong as possible as don’t want to run a turbo hanger.
Think I will have to bite the bullet and see if Mark can get me one of his spec ones so I know fitment will be fine also none of his have cracked and don’t run hangers
I spoke to Mark today about my gearbox spacing and asked him how my Nortec compared to his one in the pic, he said they are very similar and it defo does not need a hanger if you prefer not to run one.
Thanks Toby,
i have mailed him about having anything in stock etc.
Sure half the gain is the manifold so don’t think a mod’d 2wd one is best
it was MK Mark Walker I spoke to, not MAD.
The manifold is very important but I know the 2wd one is twin scroll but how good it is compared I do not know. I wonder if Mark Shead or anyone else has run a back to back comparison?
I’d like to see a comparison between a tubular manifold and a 2wd, 2wd manifold has to be one of the best standard turbo manifolds I’ve seen but for looks alone I’d go nortech
Mark @ mad did say 50% gains of going efr are in his manifold
Didn’t someone reach the limit of a rwd manifold on a top speed run? Sure someone got a cylinder too hot with around the 650 odd mark and it was the manifold restricting it
14-02-2019, 02:21 PM
